Ford 4000..........diff lock?

[Toronto Turbo]

Read on the forums the Ford 400 has a diff lock..................Where is the location and how do you operate it?

My traqctor I think is a 1971 Ford 4000 3 cylinder gas, appears to be an industrial, with a class II hitch, front loader with from PTO pump.

1/2" of snow in the driveway aqnd I am getting stuck in reverse with just one wheel spinning.............I even have a few loops of chain around the tire.

 

[SoonerLS]

The differential lock on the 4000 is the pedal on the left (brake pedals) side, under the seat. It points forward from the rear axle and sits low, parallel to and just over the running board.

Edit: Oops--that should say right side. You step on it with your right heel.

 

[Toronto Turbo]

The differential lock on the 4000 is the pedal on the left (brake pedals) side, under the seat. It points forward from the rear axle and sits low, parallel to and just over the running board.

I will have to take a look I don't recal seeing it.
Do you have to keep foot pressure on ot for it to be locked?

 

[SoonerLS]

I will have to take a look I don't recal seeing it.
Do you have to keep foot pressure on ot for it to be locked?

It's set up for heel operation, so I would guess so, but I've never had occasion to try it. The tractor is my dad's, and the only meaningful time I've spent in the seat has been while haying--and a flat field in a drought just doesn't give you much need for locking the diff...

 

[SoonerLS]

I found this picture where you can (vaguely) see the end of the pedal:

If you zoom in on the running board, you can see the brake latch T-handle sticking up through the running board; aft of that, just before the fender obscures the view, you can see the end of the diff lock pedal, where you step on it with your heel. (There's a small strip of white near the pedal; the brake latch T-handle is roughly half-way between the brakes and the diff lock.)

 

[Toronto Turbo]

Thanks.
I will have to look next time I am up.
What else are people doing for more traction?
Would just some dead weight on the 3 point hitch be a great help?..........I was wondering if it was just the front loader weight on the front causing me to get stuck.
It sounds like there is water in the wheels so I assume they are weighted.

I found this picture where you can (vaguely) see the end of the pedal:
View attachment 291091
If you zoom in on the running board, you can see the brake latch T-handle sticking up through the running board; aft of that, just before the fender obscures the view, you can see the end of the diff lock pedal, where you step on it with your heel. (There's a small strip of white near the pedal; the brake latch T-handle is roughly half-way between the brakes and the diff lock.)

 

[HakanTh]

I will have to take a look I don't recal seeing it.
Do you have to keep foot pressure on ot for it to be locked?

You engage the lock by pressing the pedal, then release it. The lock disengages itself when both wheels turn equally. Make sure it disengages properly.
Here is the operator's manual: Scribd
Check figure 4A on page 8 and instructions on page 13.

Edit:
Perhaps your tractor does not have a differential lock. It was optional on some models but seems to have been standard equipment on the industrials (at least 4400)
You can try braking the wheel that spins, just enough to get the other one turning.

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. brakes will help traction.. ballasting tires or frame as well. chains if needed..

 

[Toronto Turbo]

Never thought of braking the spinning tire......will try it.
Thanks
for the Manual too!

 

[NEKVT]

Having weight on the rear really helps my Ford 2000 plow snow.
you can get a steel barrel from Craigslist for $10, put a crossbar from Tractor Supply through it.
( Watch the height of the cross bar versus the height of you 3 point side links at rest, I got the cross bar a little too low)
I then put a chain from the cross bar to a chain hook from TSC that was wide enough for a top link.
and mixed up and added seven 80lb bags of cement
Watch the height of the toplink attachment for when it pivots off the ground, see pic

The diff lock doesn't seem to help on my Ford

 

[bigpig41]

Don't mean to highjack this thread although it appears youall finished with it 6 years ago. Have a question about the 4 cylinder 4000 Ford tractor. Would the rear end housing and differential off this 4000 bolt on to a 1962 Ford 861? At least the center section of the 4000's rear end appears identical to the 861's from that owners manual that was posted in this thread? My 861's trumpets look different but maybe they would bolt on to the 4000's center section if holes were re-drilled. Would the shaft from the 861's transmission housing plug onto the pinion of the 4000 differential? Wanting that diff lock from the 4000 in my 861 to use for dead weight tractor pulling on cement. My alternative is to buy another 861 rear end and weld the differential parts together so they can't move....but not sure I would be able to make any turns with the tractor in that condition. Another question is was there ever a sherman step up tranny made for the 861?

And regarding the 4000 diff lock; it's what's called a mechanical diff lock vrs the other type which is called a hydraulic diff lock. The hydraulic type although hard on driveline components can be engaged once one wheel has already started spinning while the other is at rest. A mechanical diff lock can only be engaged when the two wheels are turning at the same speed(before you get into traction trouble) and its the continuing difference in traction that holds it engaged as that spring that is stretched when it is engaged will pull the mechanical components back to the resting/normal position once the traction and thus speed of the two axles becomes equal UNLESS you continuously hold the pedal down with your foot.