JPB7745
New member
With my Ford 3000 gasser I had the same issues and come to find out the wire from the condenser was shorting out inside the distributor housing. Just an FYI good luck!!
Ford 4000 won稚 crank after use without sitting a day
LouNY
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As the others have said your points need adjusting.
Ok, will try to remember to take a pic of that tomorrow.
The tune up kit and coil came today. Wondering what this little TINY packet of what looks like oil is ?
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DJ54
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- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Grease to put on the rub block.
LouNY
Super Star Member
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- Greenwich, NY
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- Branson 8050, IH 574, Oliver 1550 Diesel Utility (traded in on Branson) NH 8160. Kioti CK2620SECH
I always put just a bit on the back of the fiber arm that rides on the distributor cam lobes.
No Love ....
Changed the coil, condenser, points and plugs .... didnt crank or try to fire
Im hoping its still a points adjustment issue. I could not get the distributor cam to stop on the high point, close but not on the top. Tried to adjust but didnt matter. A friend told me after the fact that I need to take the plugs out and manually rotate from the flywheel. It would not let me turn the flywheel with plugs in and I didnt think to remove them.
Is that the best way to be able to manipulate the cam to stop it on the high spot ?
I also could not get a spark from coil wire to the distributor By touching the end that goes to the distributor to a ground. He told me I might not get a spark if the points are not hitting right.
I have 12v to the + on the coil before cranking.
I get low V on the wire from the coil that runs to inside the distributor, then it jumps around when turned over.
I?m hoping when I take the plugs out and get the points gapped right it will make a difference. So far no love
Video of it now, points move but no spark.
Distributor 2 - YouTube
Also a pic of the spot in question from any earlier reply.
Thanks for any additional thoughts.
Changed the coil, condenser, points and plugs .... didnt crank or try to fire
Im hoping its still a points adjustment issue. I could not get the distributor cam to stop on the high point, close but not on the top. Tried to adjust but didnt matter. A friend told me after the fact that I need to take the plugs out and manually rotate from the flywheel. It would not let me turn the flywheel with plugs in and I didnt think to remove them.
Is that the best way to be able to manipulate the cam to stop it on the high spot ?
I also could not get a spark from coil wire to the distributor By touching the end that goes to the distributor to a ground. He told me I might not get a spark if the points are not hitting right.
I have 12v to the + on the coil before cranking.
I get low V on the wire from the coil that runs to inside the distributor, then it jumps around when turned over.
I?m hoping when I take the plugs out and get the points gapped right it will make a difference. So far no love
Video of it now, points move but no spark.
Distributor 2 - YouTube
Also a pic of the spot in question from any earlier reply.
Thanks for any additional thoughts.
Attachments
I dont think the wire from the coil to the distributor is broken, I did unplug it and pulled around on it , pushed it and pulled it and it didnt seem bad. I can inspect further when I go back tomorrow.
I dont think the wire coming from the coil to the point or the one going to the condenser (both attach to the point bolt) is touching but Ill check that again as well.
The + wire on the coil is attached directly to the solenoid on the key side. I believe it runs from the ignition to the solenoid and from the same terminal to the coil. The wire is actually joined on a plug that plugs into the solenoid and then it continues to the coil. I get 12.5v with the key turned to on, when measuring at the end of the wire that goes to the + coil but not yet connected to the coil. When wire is actually connected to the coil the V drops to 7-9v. Only difference in the 12.5v (before attaching to coil) and 7-9 is after attaching to the coil. Assumed that was due to v drain from being attached to coil.
I thought about unhooking the coil wire to the distributor to points and then measuring it with the + attached but not sure what that would tell me.
Not sure if this is a clue, but I did notice the coil gets warm, a good bit warm when the key is on and it sits a few min (ie forgot to turn the key to off) or after turning it over a few times.
Seems like if Im getting 12.5v to the + on the coil before its attached and then attach it, turn it over and no arc from the center coil plug when the distributor end is grounded to the block....
Something is grounded somewhere else ?
I dont think the wire coming from the coil to the point or the one going to the condenser (both attach to the point bolt) is touching but Ill check that again as well.
The + wire on the coil is attached directly to the solenoid on the key side. I believe it runs from the ignition to the solenoid and from the same terminal to the coil. The wire is actually joined on a plug that plugs into the solenoid and then it continues to the coil. I get 12.5v with the key turned to on, when measuring at the end of the wire that goes to the + coil but not yet connected to the coil. When wire is actually connected to the coil the V drops to 7-9v. Only difference in the 12.5v (before attaching to coil) and 7-9 is after attaching to the coil. Assumed that was due to v drain from being attached to coil.
I thought about unhooking the coil wire to the distributor to points and then measuring it with the + attached but not sure what that would tell me.
Not sure if this is a clue, but I did notice the coil gets warm, a good bit warm when the key is on and it sits a few min (ie forgot to turn the key to off) or after turning it over a few times.
Seems like if Im getting 12.5v to the + on the coil before its attached and then attach it, turn it over and no arc from the center coil plug when the distributor end is grounded to the block....
Something is grounded somewhere else ?
The coil has an internal resister , maybe thats why it drops once attached.
Ill do the test on + and - on the coil with the distributor wire unconnected tomorrow. As well as closely inspect for anything grounded to the housing inside.
Thanks
