3-Point Hitch Ford 4610 doesn't work

[awellc]

I posted a thread headed "quick drop valve" but the issue is my 4610 TPH will not move. Do the hoses going to the loader have to be hooked up for the TPH to work. The pto works fine and I changed the hydraulic/diff filter. I have a valve on top of the diff center in front of the seat that is labeled quick drop valve. I does not matter which way the valve is.
Thanks,
Ken

 

[awellc]

Up date! I hooked up the loader hydraulics and the loader moved just fine. I assume that means the hydro pump is ok. It didn't make any difference on the three point hitch. Any Ideas on where to start looking for the problem?

 

[Harry in Ky]

You haven't explained how the loader is plumbed. No doubt that is your problem. If the loader is first in line for oil, the pressure return goes next to the 3 pt. When the loader is disconnected perhaps the oil supply is directed to sump instead of the lift?

 

[Jerry/MT]

I posted a thread headed "quick drop valve" but the issue is my 4610 TPH will not move. Do the hoses going to the loader have to be hooked up for the TPH to work. The pto works fine and I changed the hydraulic/diff filter. I have a valve on top of the diff center in front of the seat that is labeled quick drop valve. I does not matter which way the valve is.
Thanks,
Ken

Is your loader hooked up to remotes or is plumbed separately? Is there a diverter valve under the seat? On my 4610, the loader is plumbed to the remotes. If I have a remote on, the three point will not lift because of a priority valve in the system. Once the remote is off, the three point will respond to lever commands.

I have a hydraulic manifold that i just installed and that wil allow m to plumb the loader through a seperate control valve freeing up the remotes.

 

[Soundguy]

do you have an asc valve on that machine.. I'm not familiar witht he 10 series.. too new for me.. most of my toys are x600 and down..

 

[awellc]

Is your loader hooked up to remotes or is plumbed separately? Is there a diverter valve under the seat? On my 4610, the loader is plumbed to the remotes. If I have a remote on, the three point will not lift because of a priority valve in the system. Once the remote is off, the three point will respond to lever commands.

I have a hydraulic manifold that i just installed and that wil allow m to plumb the loader through a seperate control valve freeing up the remotes.

Thanks for the reply Jerry. I'm new to tractor ownership so I may not have terminology straight. I have hoses coming from a valve on top of the diff center in front of the seat but behind the trans that says "quick drop valve". Those are the hoses going to the loader. Would that be the remotes valve you are referring to?

 

[awellc]

Sorry, I don't know what a asc valve is

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks for the reply Jerry. I'm new to tractor ownership so I may not have terminology straight. I have hoses coming from a valve on top of the diff center in front of the seat but behind the trans that says "quick drop valve". Those are the hoses going to the loader. Would that be the remotes valve you are referring to?

quick drop is printed onthe side of your top cover remote very likely... fancy way to make a DA spool sa...

 

[Soundguy]

Sorry, I don't know what a asc valve is

auxilary service control.

 

[lfc]

The "quick drop valve" is just a remote valve that allows you to open a screw on the front so you can run single-acting hydraulic cylinders without having to deadhead the hydraulic port that isn't being used. It sounds like that remote valve is powering your loader valve. In order to get the TPH to work, the remote has to be in the neutral (center) position for the pump's oil flow to get to the TPH instead of being diverted to the remote/loader valve. The valve should have a detent (locking) position when it is moved forward or backward. Try returning it to the center and see if it works. To use the loader, you'll have to push it back to where it was (probably the rear position).

 

[awellc]

I will give that a try. I didn't know it had a center position. Thanks

 

[Soundguy]

you thought maybee the remote was always on?


i'll ask a question i likely know the answer to already.. but here goes...

you got a manual for that tractor?

no?

why not?

 

[whodat526]

you thought maybee the remote was always on?


i'll ask a question i likely know the answer to already.. but here goes...

you got a manual for that tractor?

no?

why not?

because the chicken ate it then the dog ate the chicken and when they finally got around to reading it, it was just a pill of crap

i must agree if most people would get a manual when they get there tractor it would save alot of the little problems from accouring but then that is what tbn is for to ask questions

 

[awellc]

Well the chicken didn't eat it, the dog didn't eat the chicken but what the in the world did you step in?
Got the manual on line but not one word about the quick drop valve. How many manuals and how much money would you suggest I spend on them.

 

[awellc]

Thank you lfc. You hit the nail on the head. I had tried the remote valve in both in and out positions but never dreamed it would have to be centered.

 

[lfc]

You're welcome - glad it worked. A couple times I have panicked when my 4610's TPH didn't work, only to find I had left the remote valve in the forward position after using it on my single-acting Kuhn rotary hay rake lift cylinder.

 

[Soundguy]

Well the chicken didn't eat it, the dog didn't eat the chicken but what the in the world did you step in?
Got the manual on line but not one word about the quick drop valve. How many manuals and how much money would you suggest I spend on them.

it would help if you call the valve by it's correct name.

it's not a quick drop valve.

the 'quick drop' is just cast on there to let you know it's a convertable valve to be used as SA or DA without deadheading a port.

it's a simple remote valve that goes on the trans top.

money / manuals? you've got thousands of dollars of iron setting there that you don't know how to fully operate. I'd say the lil bit of manuals that you'd need to buy would be a great investment. as for how many? um.. why not ALL of them. I try to own the owners, parts and service manuals for all my machines. if there are aftermarket and dealer service manuals.. i sometimes get both.. or get whichever one provides the info i need. as for cost? it's an investment. the dealer service manual SET for my NH 7610s costs a couple hundred bucks.. comes in 3 ring binders. and was worth every penny I paid for it...

just simple little things like seeing a scv that has detented positions.. that kind of stuff will help. also reading and understanding the the systems onthe tractor and why they work the way they do. for instance... hyd flow schematic. just seeing that the scv diverts flow lets you know that items down stream of it are starved when flow is directed elsewhere.. etc.. those lil tidbits are why manuals are good.

whodat brings up a good point that a good online forum is a great palce to get advice and info.. but IMHO.. it's not a replacement for a manual.

I take it from the 'step in' comment that yo no longer need any info, so I'll bow out of the thread and mark your name on my ignore list so i won';t accidentally further bother you.

have a good one..

soundguy

 

[awellc]

Soundguy, I appriciate your thoughts. FYI the responce quoted was not directed at you. Please note what was quoted. The tractor I have was given to me so I have no money into it but the motor rebuild and paint. I don't make any money with it (hopefully yet) so I wouldn't have a way to recouperate the cost of spending hundreds of dollars on manuals that may or maynot be of help. I could have never afforded to buy this tractor either. Not all of us have the finances to spend as we like.

 

[whodat526]

Soundguy, I appriciate your thoughts. FYI the responce quoted was not directed at you. Please note what was quoted. The tractor I have was given to me so I have no money into it but the motor rebuild and paint. I don't make any money with it (hopefully yet) so I wouldn't have a way to recouperate the cost of spending hundreds of dollars on manuals that may or maynot be of help. I could have never afforded to buy this tractor either. Not all of us have the finances to spend as we like.

no soundguy it was directed at me but if he would have read my whole post it would've seen it wasn't about him either

 

[Soundguy]

too late. any time I see someone with an expensive nice tractor that then vocally complains about how many manuals they need to own to keep it maintained.. I usually write them off. having a forum to ask a question on is fine.. but doing so because you are complaining about how many manuals it takes..? really? on a multi thousand dollar machine.. a hundred in manuals ain't bad. and if the tractor was free.. a hundred in manuals ain't bad.

none of my tractors 'make' me any moey.. but they do save me money.


if I had to justify every item i owned by it making me money or not.. i'd have to throw away 99% of the stuff i owned.

financial income capability of an item is a poor measure of it's true 'worth'.

to look at it another way.. my tractor ownershiop COSTS me money in the way of fuel, oil and maintenace upkeep/parts / consumables..e tc. what it does is save me timeand save me from hireing it out. while it doesn't generate money, it does negate some loss of money thru some expense of it's own.. a deffinate positive on a cost /benefit analysis.. even if it is in the red ink perpetually..

a self defense / personal safety idem makes no money.. costs money to purchase and maintain.. but if you ever need it to save your life.. it's worth your entire life in assets, (at a minimum)..

soundguy