ford 850 oil no pressure

[Gale Hawkins]

randhoff sounds like you will wind up with a solution.

 

[CircleRat]

Too bad about the crankshaft. Sounds like the tractor is worth rebuilding though. My next tractor will be a '58 to '64 4 cyl. Ford, a 4000 model or 801 series with SOS, power steering, and dual remotes. I've had two 3000s now, a '65 and a '66. My current '65 model has all those features and a front mounted hydraulic dozer blade. But I just don't like it as much as the late 50's early 60's models. As you say, those older tractors are bulletproof and so easy to maintain. Plus they have more weight and more horsepower in the same size package.

Call me a dinosaur, I'm okay with that... but I don't think you can beat an old N series for bushhogging, towing hay & firewood, and general garden work. Even my wife is comfortable driving one. They are small enough to get through thick woods, yet heavy enough to pull just about any implement I have. I prefer gas burners, simply because being a retired auto tech I know how to work on them. Maybe just bad luck, but every diesel I've ever owned was more trouble than it was worth. Even my '97 F-350 dually has a 460 gas engine. It was the last year Ford made the big block 7.5L V8. I use it for towing a car hauler and 5th wheel.

Good luck with finding a tractor. Please excuse my 2 cents... you might be better off spending a little more money and buying one that's ready to go, instead of a 'fixer-upper'. I used to go for the cheap 'deals' too, thinking I can fix it up myself and save some money... but it usually doesn't work out that way in the end. Just sayin'...

 

[randhoff]

I have no problem with a fix upper. If I had gotten my hands on this tractor before this guy. I would of changed oil primed it then play with it. I thought that these guys knew what they were doing. I think if you have good compression and oil pressure you should be ok. any tractor no mater what condition might have hidden flaws. I do plan on rebuilding this motor. Not now will do it this fall.

 

[randhoff]

Is there two different 4000 model tractors with the 172ci? I was looking at a 4000 with the 172 It said 4000 Industrial on the hood. the frame looked a lot more rugged than any of the 800 series tractor. I know they went to the 3 cylinder motor on the next 4000 group.

 

[randhoff]

I ran across a Ford power unit. It has the 172 ci motor. Belonged to a fruit farm owner. Used on a tree shaker drove the hydraulic pump. He said the only used the shaker on cheery trees because it bruised apples when they fell. They still hand pick apples that go to the market. It was used 2 weeks a year during the harvest season. It has been sitting on the shelf for the last 10 years. He started it up it held 50 to 60 lbs oil pressure . the compression was around 140 within a couple pounds each cylinder. He thought it was late 60's it had the 12volt generator . I think they started switching to the solid state smaller ones around 74 in cars renamed it to alternator . I don't know if this motor has the sleeves in it. I think I read some where when they changed the block to accept the twist on oil pump the went to sleeveless. I saw the specs, it has the 7.5 : 1 compression ratio like the x01 tractors and 4000 . It is a very clean motor I see it also have the spot to use a fuel pump if needed.

 

[Soundguy]

Is there two different 4000 model tractors with the 172ci? I was looking at a 4000 with the 172 It said 4000 Industrial on the hood. the frame looked a lot more rugged than any of the 800 series tractor. I know they went to the 3 cylinder motor on the next 4000 group.

there are different chassie types among both the 3 cyl and 4 cyl models. ag, industrial, row crops, etc...

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I think when we start talking tractors of this era there are few used tractor parts places that will have the knowledge/experience of someone like Soundguy so one really has to be careful. If they will bolt together all is fine. The four cylinder gas CONN brand of that era are easy to spot if you grew up riding on one but otherwise can be Greek. The nice thing all is out in the open to look and an measure if needed.

Cost wise rebuilding old tractors/trucks is seldom cost effective but it does not stop some of us from wanting to do it.

 

[CircleRat]

Remember when these old tractors were bought new, it's likely they went a good 20 years before needing any major repairs (if they were properly maintained). So if you rebuild one from the bearings up, it very well could go another 20 years without any major breakdowns. At my age, 20 years is about how much time I have left in the driver's seat anyway... knock on wood. :dance1:
Yes, it'll cost some serious money to completely rebuild a '64 4000 model, but it'll still be way cheaper than buying a new tractor. And the cost of basic maintenance compared to a new one is cheaper too... especially if you can stockpile parts like spark plugs and filters in bulk and do the job yourself.
Another advantage to this approach is once you rebuild the tractor, you will know it down to every last nut & bolt. If you do have to fix or replace something, no surprises... you've done it all before. Familiarity is a wonderful thing. :thumbsup:
I've driven a few of my neighbors newer tractors (a mid-size Kubota and a big Mahindra) and though they hum along like sewing machines just fine, they just don't push the same buttons as the good old Fords & Farmalls do. A few years back I had a Super M with some old pull-type implements, and there's nothing like sitting up there behind that looong hood listening to that big ol' gas motor chugging along, pulling a 3-bottom trip plow down row after row. It's not work when you have a big ol' grin on your face the whole time.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

CircleRat I agree with you on the value of a rebuild for those with the ability and time. This class of Ford rebuilt today and used on a hobby farm will be good for another 50 years with oil changes and points and plugs from time to time.