Ford 8N having trouble starting -- many troubleshooting steps take -- suggestions?

[PorkChopsMmm]

Thanks Soundguy. I will check all of that out tonight. When we took off the carb last time gas poured just fine out of the fuel line -- I don't see any reason that it would have changed.

I think I am going to pull the alternator tonight and get it tested/exchanged tomorrow. It would be nice to get that working.

 

[Soundguy]

keep us posted

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

Ok, back inside.

I cleaned the fuel line and replaced the whole fuel bowl assembly with my old one, but replace all of the gaskets. The new one was a hunk of junk, leaking, the screw for the knob fell off and I was constantly losing the knob, etc.

So we know it isn't fuel from the tank or up until it hits the carb -- fuel was pouring out of the gas line.

Carb is off now and I am starting to check it out. Choke worked as it should. Watch the video -- I COULD REMOVE THE MAIN NEEDLE AND IT WAS STILL RUNNING.

That must be a new one.

 

[Soundguy]

you do know the side needle is the air idle needle .. in to enrich.. adn the rear needle is the fuel needle.. out to enrich.

if it runs out.. she is super lean and clogged.. or you have a huge vacume leak.. or (and) very very weak spark.

i'd investigage a clogged mainjet....

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

Pics of the carb -- looks clear

 

[Soundguy]

i see it's a repop carb.. no matter though.

make sure all seats and jets have intact gasket rings..

does this have a plastic venturi?

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

repop carb?

Venturi is brass.

This is CRAZY. I just went and popped it back on and it is having slightly different behavior. Throttle low at idle (high idle), idle mixture needle all the way in, and with the main power adjustment needle all the way in, but back out 1 turn, it would run for ~20 seconds and die. While it was running I kept unscrewing the needle and it kept getting better. Unscrewing the idle mixture needle made it worse. It ran the best at this low throttle WITHOUT THE NEEDLE. When I would put the needle back in it would sputter more -- remove the needle and it runs better. If I moved the throttle up it would then work OK with the needle screwed in some.

I checked the gaskets, checked all the little holes, sprayed carb cleaner through everything, blew air through the holes, made sure gas was fast pouring out of the fuel line before putting the carb on, etc.

 

[Soundguy]

you are extremely lean somewhere for some reason.. either significant blockage or a vacume leak.


repop carb.. um aftermarket copy.. not an OE CI ms 241a/b/c or even a tsx 33 etc... you have the pot metal plated version tsc used to sell before it got cast iron repops.

no matter.. MOST of the time.. the same kits fit them... sometimes the finish gets porus and seat gaskets dot fit.. especially if the surface gets a powdery texture.

 

[94BULLITT]

I did not see a pic of the venturi. It would have been nice to have also have seen a pic a float the gasket.

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

The edges of the carb were good, venturi was properly installed, etc.

Do you suggest I try and pick up an old OEM carb from someone? I don't know how this thing could have gone bad but with new gaskets, blowing it out, and it still running with the main power adjustment needle out I'm not sure what to think.

Anyone have an old carb they want to sell?

94 -- sorry, it's already back on the tractor.