Ford 8N or similar older types

   / Ford 8N or similar older types #101  
Everyone here is essentially saying the same thing
Hopefully for his sake, the OP will take note!

Yes, isn't that amazing. Just about every single poster is saying the same thing.
So if the OP doesn't take note the first time he buys an older tractor, he probably will figure it out for himself somewhere around the second or third time....
 
   / Ford 8N or similar older types #102  
If all goes well, I will have me a non running 9n by the end of this weekend. That is dependent upon the guy accepting my $ 900 offer. I am mostly after its loaded rear right tire, to get my 1951 8n thru the rest of this season, cultivating and spraying corn. My right rear, calcium-loaded rim rusted thru, right after I finished my spring plowing.

I got the rest of my corn planted with my larger, newer tractor, but I can't easily get the big wheels set right on that for row crop work in the corn.

When I have more free time in the winter, I will put my flat right rear on a new rim, and try to get that 9n running. It has a new rim and unloaded left rear tire on it now. If I can get it running, i will put both rusty-rim loaded rears on it.

I will either sell it then or keep it as a dedicated plow tractor. It only has hydraulic draft control, but that's what is best for the plow. My 8n has that and position control. It will be nice having one n with loaded rears and another with unloaded rears. I also like the lower speed reverse on the 9n's for some tasks, like using a pond scoop in the reverse position. The high speed reverse on the 8n is a lot better for pushing snow backwards with a blade.

It will be cool having the original 3 point hitch utility tractor (9n), along with the most refined form of that basic model (1951 8n). In spite of what many others think, there have been nearly as many back steps as forward ones, since those models came out. There are still a few jobs that I prefer using the old originals for.
20210523_161728.jpg
 
Last edited:
   / Ford 8N or similar older types #103  
My N was my first tractor for my 10ac and I still have & use it.
I did get a newer 4wd cut with a MMM that hasn't worked for the last 3 yrs.
Do use it with the 3pt finish mower from the N
The old N gets almost as much work as the newer 1510 does.

To each his own I guess.
 
   / Ford 8N or similar older types #104  
LOVE that shiny plow!! --- cant invision the tractor its hooked to actually pulling it!!! LOL!!
 
   / Ford 8N or similar older types #105  
LOVE that shiny plow!! --- cant invision the tractor its hooked to actually pulling it!!! LOL!!
As long as there is no standing water, It always pulled that plow very well with calcium loaded rear tires. I am not sure how it will do after I replace the rims and mount unloaded ones. That might be the last 2 acres it plows. I will likely use my other tractor, that has larger, loaded rear tires, double the hp, and 4wd, on that plow from now on.

The only thing the bigger green one lacks is hydraulic draft control. My plow depth won't be as uniform as it always was with the old grey and red tractor. The larger 4wd is handy on wet years, when there is still some water holes in the fields. Those dont even slow it down with that little plow behind. It is cool watching the wakes roll off the moldboards, as I plow thru the standing water, in the low spots.

Unfortunatety, it looks like the 9n deal isn't going to happen. It is still parked out out by the road with a phone number on it, but the guy won't answer his phone, or the door when I knocked. My wife was also not thrilled with the idea of me dragging home an old non-runner.

I just ordered a new rear rim and tube for my 8n. I got a little vacation time planned over the 4th of July, so hopefully I can get that bad rear rim replaced by the time the corn needs spraying and cultivating.

Here are a few more action shots of the 8n at work this spring. In the other plowing shot, you can see a deer antler that almost took out my other rear tire. Fortunately, I spotted it before it punctured my left. The 8n also excels on that 3-point carryall and 2-row planter.

20210612_204828.jpg
20210612_204755.jpg
20210612_204913.jpg
 
Last edited:
   / Ford 8N or similar older types #106  
By KY3 Staff
Published: Jun. 9, 2021 at 6:50 AM CDT



NEAR AURORA, Mo. (KY3) -The Missouri State Highway Patrol says Burl Baum, 69, of Crane was killed in a tractor accident Tuesday afternoon.
The patrol says Baum fell off the tractor and was run over after it started to roll backwards.
The accident happened five miles south of Aurora on Farm Road 2012.
To report a correction or typo, please email digitalnews@ky3.com
Copyright 2021 KY3. All rights reserved.

While it doesn't say it is an 8N or 9N, you can bet it is one of those or some other ancient piece of crap without a proper seat, no seat belt, no ROPS. How would you fall off of a modern tractor? You would really have to work at it. Pretty easy to fall off of a metal seat pan at the back of an ancient antique POS tractor.

Something to think about for sure.

They say it was an A-C. I nearly met my end on an Allis-Chalmers B wide front (I think that was all B’s). Rolled backwards on a gravel drive into the yard of one of our farms rather than using reverse, popped the clutch when I was back far enough to start forward at an angle but the front end came up so high I could only see the sun. Super fast reactions getting my foot back on the clutch saved me. Crashed down so hard it broke the pivot bolt on the front axle. That’s why I swore if I ever returned to the home place I’d only have ROPS equipped tractors. So when I bought the place from my dad planning my future retirement, the first thing I bought was a ROPS equipped tractor and the first job was to tow off the last of dad’s non-ROPS tractors to a neighbor who wanted to restore it. Cheated death once, not worth pressing my luck.
 
   / Ford 8N or similar older types #107  
They say it was an A-C. I nearly met my end on an Allis-Chalmers B wide front (I think that was all B’s). Rolled backwards on a gravel drive into the yard of one of our farms rather than using reverse, popped the clutch when I was back far enough to start forward at an angle but the front end came up so high I could only see the sun. Super fast reactions getting my foot back on the clutch saved me. Crashed down so hard it broke the pivot bolt on the front axle. That’s why I swore if I ever returned to the home place I’d only have ROPS equipped tractors. So when I bought the place from my dad planning my future retirement, the first thing I bought was a ROPS equipped tractor and the first job was to tow off the last of dad’s non-ROPS tractors to a neighbor who wanted to restore it. Cheated death once, not worth pressing my luck.
I had a close call with my old Allis Chalmers model C (narrow front), a few years ago. I had 3 other tractors at the time, so I didn't use it much. I liked it for dragging firewood logs out of the interior of my 4 acre woodlot in the summer. The narrow front provided great visibility, and that and the unloaded rear tires caused much less rut damage in the damp, fragile woods than my wide front, loaded tire 4 wd tractor.

I didn't use it enough to bother keeping a 6 volt battery on it. It started ok with the hand crank, as long as it was not too hot or too cold. If I stalled the tractor under load, I always had to wait for it to cool down before it would start again. That trait contributed to my trading it in for the same $500 that I paid for it, on a new Bush hog last year.

One early summer morning, it was parked in the back of my old barn, behind a couple of push lawn mowers, and a craftsman leaf sweeper. I stuck the crank in the hole in front and gave it half a turn.

That old C had no safety features at all. I always left it in neutral when parked, and to this day, I don't know how it got left in gear that day. The throttle was up about half way and it was in second gear.

It sprang to life at half a turn, and charged straight at me. I was a bit younger and faster then, and that long handle gave me just enough time to leap out of the way. Had it been wide-front like your B, I doubt I would be here typing today. I probably would not have been able to avoid that wide front axle.

The leaf sweeper and push mowers were not so fortunate, although they did serve to absorb the energy and save the overhead door that was closed in front. The adjacent bay door was up, and I had planned on exiting that one after I got on the tractor.

Those two push mowers were wrecked, but I was able to salvage one of the engines. The old barn is gone now too. My grandad met his Maker in it, and I almost did too. I was able to save the craftsman leaf sweeper, and I still use it each fall, and when the grass gets real thick after spring mowing.

Thanks to the emerald ash borer, I can now get all the firewood I need from hedgerows and from the edge of the woods, so I dont miss that old C one bit. Getting up on that high narrow platform was a *****. That little step under the clutch pedal, that I welded up, helped a bit but the Ford n's are so much nicer in that regard.

20210613_063746.jpg
 
Last edited:
   / Ford 8N or similar older types #108  
There's a lot of love and hate for the old machines here. I'd guess the hate comes mostly from folks under 40. Anyhow, I went through the same mental gymnastics about which tractor to buy recently too. I wanted an 8N bad until a guy years ago filled me in on the same problems everyone here mentioned. He said look at 600/800. So I did. I ended up getting a real nice '79 3500 which is actually a 3000 with a HD front end. The parts availability is pretty good for this series. I couldn't afford 4wd on a firefighters salary so weight, good tires and better chains will have to suffice. I don't have a FEL since I have a 580C TLB. This will be a woods tractor so the FEL would get in the way anyway. I just got it a couple months ago so I'm hoping it will handle chores like box blade, chipper, skid winch well.
 
   / Ford 8N or similar older types #109  
There's a lot of love and hate for the old machines here. I'd guess the hate comes mostly from folks under 40. Anyhow, I went through the same mental gymnastics about which tractor to buy recently too. I wanted an 8N bad until a guy years ago filled me in on the same problems everyone here mentioned. He said look at 600/800. So I did. I ended up getting a real nice '79 3500 which is actually a 3000 with a HD front end. The parts availability is pretty good for this series. I couldn't afford 4wd on a firefighters salary so weight, good tires and better chains will have to suffice. I don't have a FEL since I have a 580C TLB. This will be a woods tractor so the FEL would get in the way anyway. I just got it a couple months ago so I'm hoping it will handle chores like box blade, chipper, skid winch well.
Is your 3500 gas or diesel ? I have ran both in that series, and I have no complaints from either. The gas ones start better in the winter, but the diesels are more efficient and a bit less maintenance worries. The diesels take a bigger battery to crank, and are harder on starters.

The rear hydraulics are very strong on them. I made a rear loader for my 2000 deisel, that worked great. No 2wd handicap at all with that, because you gained traction as you loaded the bucket. A boom pole on back, with a set of tongues, worked great for skidding logs with that tractor.

I made the rear loader, simply by hooking the boom pole to the top link position of a backwards pond scoop, and I made a couple lower link extensions from angle iron. My 8n could just barely lift the empty scoop, but the 2000 would lift it heaped full of manure, dirt, or stone.

My first job was working for an outfit that had (2) 3500-type Ford diesels with loaders (340B'S), a 3000 gas with the light front end, and a Case 580C, so I got real familiar with the operating and doing the maintenance. The overcenter boom made that Case backhoe nice compared to the Fords of that era.

Two idiosyncracies to watch out for on your 3500 are a plugged hydraulic inlet filter and a bad dash resistor. You will know that your inlet filter is plugged if you have to keep it topped above the normal full level, to make the lift arms work normally.

They can be ran for years that way with no harm done (dont ask how I know). The extra oil allows it to spill into the pump over the top, bypassing the plugged filter.

You will know your dash resistor is bad, if your fuel and temperature gauges start reading erratic. I changed out a few thermostats before I learned that lesson. The guy at the local Ford parts counter tipped me off, when I came in for my third one.
 
Last edited:
   / Ford 8N or similar older types #110  
Is your 3500 gas or diesel ? I have ran both in that series, and I have no complaints from either. The gas ones start better in the winter, but the diesels are more efficient and a bit less maintenance worries. The diesels take a bigger battery to crank, and are harder on starters.

The rear hydraulics are very strong on them. I made a rear loader for my 2000 deisel, that worked great. No 2wd handicap at all with that, because you gained traction as you loaded the bucket. A boom pole on back, with a set of tongues, worked great for skidding logs with that tractor.

I made the rear loader, simply by hooking the boom pole to the top link position of a backwards pond scoop, and I made a couple lower link extensions from angle iron. My 8n could just barely lift the empty scoop, but the 2000 would lift it heaped full of manure, dirt, or stone.

My first job was working for an outfit that had (2) 3500-type Ford diesels with loaders (340B'S), a 3000 gas with the light front end, and a Case 580C, so I got real familiar with the operating and doing the maintenance. The overcenter boom made that Case backhoe nice compared to the Fords of that era.

Two idiosyncracies to watch out for on your 3500 are a plugged hydraulic inlet filter and a bad dash resistor. You will know that your inlet filter is plugged if you have to keep it topped above the normal full level, to make the lift arms work normally.

They can be ran for years that way with no harm done (dont ask how I know). The extra oil allows it to spill into the pump over the top, bypassing the plugged filter.

You will know your dash resistor is bad, if your fuel and temperature gauges start reading erratic. I changed out a few thermostats before I learned that lesson. The guy at the local Ford parts counter tipped me off, when I came in for my third on
Funny you should ask. According to the numbers it started life as a diesel but someone swapped in a gas. I never knew just by looking at it that it wasn't original. I believe it was restored years ago and maybe got a repaint at that time. It runs so nice. Haven't got a chance to work it yet. Waiting on some implements. It would be nice to have a loader if it was easy to take take off. I've got many questions about ford loaders and my machine. Mind if I pm you?
And yes the 580C backhoe is a a beast!
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

Finn 8ft Straw Crimper (A47809)
Finn 8ft Straw...
Bad Boy Rebel Zero Turn Mower (A47484)
Bad Boy Rebel Zero...
2018 Ford F150 XLT 4 Door 3.5L EcoBoost (A46884)
2018 Ford F150 XLT...
2021 John Deere 5055E  4WD Utility Tractor (A47809)
2021 John Deere...
2017 Ditch Witch FX30 Vacuum Excavator System T/A Trailer (A45336)
2017 Ditch Witch...
2021 Caterpillar 304E2 Mini Excavator (A46683)
2021 Caterpillar...
 
Top