Ford Hydraulic System Screen

[sld]

I recently changed the hydraulic fluid and filter in my Ford 1210 but I did not clean the pickup screen at the time.

My question is can I do it now without draining the system?

Also, where exactly is it? In the line going to the pump below the filter housing?

The 3 pt has been working fine but a little jerky at times.

thanks,

 

[JC-jetro]

I recently changed the hydraulic fluid and filter in my Ford 1210 but I did not clean the pickup screen at the time.

My question is can I do it now without draining the system?

Also, where exactly is it? In the line going to the pump below the filter housing?

The 3 pt has been working fine but a little jerky at times.

thanks,

No. You can not clean the screen without draining. The preferred method is to clean the screen during hyd oil change out. since your oil is new, I'd try to use clean 5 gal buckets to collect the oil and then I'd still used some strainer and funnel before dumping the oil back in to transmission. You'll have two drain points, one in the bottom of transmission and one in the bottom of diffy. The suction point is lower than the hyd pump in elevation. Follow the larger suction pipe from the hyd pump to where it is attached to diffy case, behind that is the screen. I have a link below that shows general design and concept that is pretty much the same with few pics.


JC,

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/88973-sos-i-have-my-first.html

 

[RickB]

I recently changed the hydraulic fluid and filter in my Ford 1210 but I did not clean the pickup screen at the time.

My question is can I do it now without draining the system?

Also, where exactly is it? In the line going to the pump below the filter housing?

The 3 pt has been working fine but a little jerky at times.

thanks,

Presumably you changed the hydrostatic charge pressure filter, which is a spin-on type. The suction screen on a 1210 is bolted directly onto the intake port of the hydraulic pump and can be serviced without draining the tractor's hydraulic system. 4 bolts hold the rear cover on the screen housing. The cover comes off, then a spring, then the screen.

 

[JC-jetro]

Presumably you changed the hydrostatic charge pressure filter, which is a spin-on type. The suction screen on a 1210 is bolted directly onto the intake port of the hydraulic pump and can be serviced without draining the tractor's hydraulic system. 4 bolts hold the rear cover on the screen housing. The cover comes off, then a spring, then the screen.

My bad again Rick, Just checked tractor data and it does only list Hydro tranny for Ford 1210.

JC,

SLD: I mixed it up with Ford 1200. My statement is only true for manual transmission as Rick correctly indicated.

 

[sld]

Thanks for the reply guys. You are the Ford gurus.

My 1210 is a gear drive and I was under the impression that the screen was just below the housing that holds the filter. If this is the case, then I can probably clean it without draining it.

I have some work to do at my Mom's today and I will take another look at the tractor.

It seems that if the screen is on the diffy side I will have to drain. If it is on the pump / filter side, I can disconnect and clean without draining. Sound right?

 

[sld]

This is the best picture I could find of the suction tube and pump / filter housing.

The screen is just below the filter housing?

I did replace the filter which was more like a tubular metal screen. Maybe this is the only filtering point?

I really appreciate your time in helping me.

 

[RickB]

This is the best picture I could find of the suction tube and pump / filter housing.

The screen is just below the filter housing?

I did replace the filter which was more like a tubular metal screen. Maybe this is the only filtering point?

I really appreciate your time in helping me.

It seems you have replaced the screen, which is cleanable if not damaged.

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks for the reply guys. You are the Ford gurus.

My 1210 is a gear drive and I was under the impression that the screen was just below the housing that holds the filter. If this is the case, then I can probably clean it without draining it.

I have some work to do at my Mom's today and I will take another look at the tractor.

It seems that if the screen is on the diffy side I will have to drain. If it is on the pump / filter side, I can disconnect and clean without draining. Sound right?

Attched below you might look at the pdf file that shows your filter/screen that is inside the housing right above the pump. Have you taken the 4 bolts off from the filter housing to look? I don't know if they have a screen there or just a paper filter. They don't show screen at the diffy. From your pic it appears the filter housing might be above the hyd normal level in transmission. I'd take the dipstick out and transfer that info to see if that level is above or blow the filter. If above than I'd drain as much as needed to replace/clean filter.

JC,

 

[sld]

Thanks Rick and JC.

I have replaced the screen a.k.a. the filter. I did save it and since it was a metal screen in decent shape I figured it could be cleaned. Now I have a spare.

I was mistaken to think there was another filtering / screening point.

Still have that jerking motion sometimes .... but it is not that bad. Weird thing is even with no weight on the 3 pt and the arms raised it will squeal some after idling for a few minutes. As soon as I move the lever a little bit it quits.

Doesn't seem to effect it much, I just like to head off problems before they get bigger and more inconvenient to fix.

Thanks again.

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks Rick and JC.

I have replaced the screen a.k.a. the filter. I did save it and since it was a metal screen in decent shape I figured it could be cleaned. Now I have a spare.

I was mistaken to think there was another filtering / screening point.

Still have that jerking motion sometimes .... but it is not that bad. Weird thing is even with no weight on the 3 pt and the arms raised it will squeal some after idling for a few minutes. As soon as I move the lever a little bit it quits.

Doesn't seem to effect it much, I just like to head off problems before they get bigger and more inconvenient to fix.

Thanks again.

Your lift arms has a feed back device that returns your 3 point spool to normal position. When you lift something up beyond your max lift limit it'll force the main pressure relief valve to relive which causes a chattering sound. You might want to find instruction on how to adjust on your tractor or simply set the stop(adjustable bracket) on your lift arm just a hair (1/4") below where it start to make the noise. This may be simplest way. Continued operation of 3 point lift at the relief setting can damage/ wear the seat on the relief mechanism. I bit it quit making the noise when you lower the lift rather than raising. Am I correct in my assumption?

JC,

 

[sld]

You are correct.

The noise happens when it is fully up and as soon as I move it down slightly it will stop. I will remember that in the future.

 

[JC-jetro]

You are correct.

The noise happens when it is fully up and as soon as I move it down slightly it will stop. I will remember that in the future.

SLD,



Look at the bracket #44 in the pdf attached. Loosen the bracket, move it down enough where lift system would not sequel and you don't need to remember it.

JC,

Very similar to my lift system . Look at the bracket that establishes max lift stop, just lower it a bit.

 

[sld]

JC,

Thanks for the tip. I am familiar with the notched bracket and I guess the notch is used only when you are using the rear hydraulics (which I don't have ...yet).

I did not realize it is adjustable. I will adjust that tomorrow.

What part of Kansas are you in?

 

[JC-jetro]

JC,

Thanks for the tip. I am familiar with the notched bracket and I guess the notch is used only when you are using the rear hydraulics (which I don't have ...yet).

I did not realize it is adjustable. I will adjust that tomorrow.

What part of Kansas are you in?

SLD,

That notch only is a stop, and nothing else. It is supposed to be the max 3 point lift shy of going in to relief. What do you mean that you don't have rear hydraulic (probably you mean hyd remote) ? and what does it have with 3 point lift... I got a bit confused

By the way, We live in a suburb of Kansas City.

JC,

 

[sld]

JC,

The way I understand it is the bottom side of the notched bracket is the upper limit for the 3 pt function. When using rear remotes the lever goes beyond this limit of the bracket and resides in the notch. This position is only to be used when using the remotes.

Maybe I am misunderstanding the manual about the notch. The book says something about damage can be done if left in the notch while using the 3 pt and not using the remotes.

I am south of you in a suburb of Wichita.

 

[JC-jetro]

JC,

The way I understand it is the bottom side of the notched bracket is the upper limit for the 3 pt function. When using rear remotes the lever goes beyond this limit of the bracket and resides in the notch. This position is only to be used when using the remotes.

Maybe I am misunderstanding the manual about the notch. The book says something about damage can be done if left in the notch while using the 3 pt and not using the remotes.

I am south of you in a suburb of Wichita.

SLD,

Okay, that gotta be a different type of spool valve. I might take a look at it just for grins.


What a small world. Would you believe if I told you I lived in Wichita for almost 10 years ? (I loved Maxwell smart and agent 99). I went to Wichita State University...class of 1983. Go shockers We lived in Northeast Wichita close to 21st and Rock rd.

JC,

Have you ever gone to R& S BBQ on 13th street? my favorite BBQ joint, and Bagatelle, by far the best French pastry place in the whole of Midwest, in my humble opinion of course.

 

[sld]

JC,

I am a Shocker too, class of '89 and basketball season ticket holder.

I am a little west of town so I don't get to the north east side much except for the games.

I am going to reread my manual to get a better understanding of the limits of the 3 pt lever and definitely adjust it slightly lower. I was at the property where the tractor is tonight, but spent my time mowing on the ztr instead. I am getting lazy about hooking up the bush hog so I just raise the ztr deck all the way and plow thru the tall stuff.

 

[DMoneyAllstar]

Old thread, but so is the tractor! haha

I just had a similar issue with my '84 Ford 1210. I was moving snow and all of a sudden the FEL & 3pt lost 90% of its hydraulic speed.

Installed a new hydraulic filter. Old one looked like it had seen water and "puckered" -- that's what happens when cellulose filter media sees moisture. Filter looked old anyways.

Drained fluid by removing the banjo bolt on the return line on the side of the trans case. About 3.5gal of murky fluid came out. I poured the old fluid out of the bucket through a steel mesh and found some "stuff". See pic. A pebble, some grass 'n grime, and a plastic bottle seal. I'm betting that was a major culprit. Only 3.5gal came out and I imagine maybe a 1/2-gal was still in the lines, but she was prob a tad low on fluid, too.

Could've also have water in the fluid that was freezing or slushing up. We had a string of -4'F to 20'F weather that lasted a couple weeks then.

New filter, new fluid and VOILA she works like she should again. :thumbsup:

Also if you're having trouble finding a hydraulic filter for this 1210 (or you don't want to pay $45 from the dealer)... you can buy a FRAM CH8765 oil filter, trim one end to length, use a heat gun to pop off the top cap of the old filter, and then JB weld the old end cap onto the trimmed new FRAM. Just make sure you get a good seal and let the JB cure. Better & cheaper and works in a pinch.

 

[joecdeere]

Wix filter for 1210 - WL10114 at O'reillys around $23.00