Ford/NH 1520 HST/4x4

[yoder]

Good looking tactor. Ditto on checking the loader mounting bolts and also the bell housing bolts. I have found loose bolts on many tractors. Loose bolts in these areas put extreme on stresses on any tractor that is worked hard.

I don,t see how there can be a Sub Frame with a belly mount mower anyhow.

 

[jinman]

Your tractor is not the newer T1520. Yours is the older model and that's probably a good thing. The 2408 loader is mounted very much like the NH/Ford 7308 model and looks to be very capable. That tractor DOES NOT look like a 25 year old tractor. It's a beauty!:thumbsup:

 

[Bob77064]

That's a good looking tractor. It does not look that old.

 

[Jnasystems]

It doesn't seem like an old tractor to me either. It has so many feature improvements over the BX I feel like I got a new tractor. The operator platform reminds me that it is an older tractor though (much less room). It was well taken care of with not too many dings or scratches although it was repainted at some point. I also need to go through the mower as it is seized.

That brings me to another question; with the mower removed, is there a way to keep the mower lift arms from dropping with the three point?

 

[Jnasystems]

Could this tractor be used to run a 5' tiller? It seems to have so much more power than my old tractor even though they are rated the same. With the extra width it would be nice to cover the tracks.

 

[jinman]

I think a 5' tiller would be ideal. You can always creep along with the HST if you are tilling native soil. On previously tilled soil like a garden plot, the 1520 should work perfectly.

 

[kc5sii]

I have a 1310 with a 770 loader. Your tractor may vary so please take this for what it's worth. It's likely been mounted since it left the dealership. Things I've learned.

1. If you don't have Power Steering. Do not manhandle the wheel. If you can't turn the wheel:
a. Lift the front end with the loader
b. Turn the wheel in the direction you wish to go
c. Lower the loader and continue.
d. If you don't do this you will tear up the steering box and spend 600+ and about three hours fixing your tractor. Like me...

2. Make triple sure the bolts through the frame into the engine are tight. Several of mine were stripped and the loader was about to break the machine "half in two" as they say here in Oklahoma. I ended up drilling them out, tapping them and using Heli Coil inserts to get it tight again. One day of labor, several finger cuts and bruises from the drill and lots of new words later it seems to be good now.

3. This is an unsolicited freebee... Never ever ever never use starting fluid. It will crack things that cost more to replace than the tractor is worth.



Enjoy the toy!
Dave

 

[drivadesl]

Great tractor! I had the same model with a 7308 loader and loved it. Used it to grade my yard, install my inground pool, landscape, clear snow etc. Very capable machine, so best of luck with it. I only ran it with a 60" mid mount mower so no experience with a tiller but I'm sure you will be satisfied with its capabilities.

 

[brewdog]

Well, I will be the proud owner of a shiny new (to me) blue tractor on Monday. It has a 60" mid mount mower and a Rhino 2408 loader with it. I am a little worried that the loader is a little big for the tractor though. The factory loader has almost half the capacity this one does. Anybody have any experience with a larger loader on this size tractor? What are your thoughts, should it be ok, or is it pushing it too far? The lift capacity of the loader is 1300 to full height and 2200 breakout.

Jnasystems,

My 1520 was a great tractor. One of the big reasons I traded my 1520 was because the lift capacity was limited to 800 or 900 pounds with the 7308 loader. With the Rhino loader you will probably have more than enough lifting capacity.

The one I had came with a 60" bucket, but I honest feel with the additional lift capacity you have and some weight bars on the three point hitch, you could handle a 72" bucket just fine.
The turf tires were nice but had a tendency to load up with mud. After they got bad, I replaced them with a wide Ag style tire. The replacements were fantastic in mud and snow.

The only thing that needed done on mine were the seals on the front wheels that leaked a little oil. That was an easy fix. I changed engine oil every 100 hours and replaced or cleaned the air filters religiously. The Shibura engine ran like a dream and that's why I bought the 4 cylinder model on the 3040.

Good luck with your rig!

 

[Jnasystems]

Well, I haven't had run this tractor much since I haven't gone through much on it yet, but today I got some new heaters and decided to put the tractor in the barn to get ready to do some fluid changing. Just started locating things but the oil dip stick proved to be elusive. I am not a complete noob when it comes to engines, but posting this sure makes me feel like I am.

What am I missing? Is there a trick to it? Is the dip stick missing on my engine? Where should it be and where should it connect to the engine? I haven't removed all the panels, but I can see the engine pretty clearly with the hood up and the two white vented panels. I don't have the owners manual, but I did purchase a repair manual. It is a PDF doc and I can only see it on my phone at this point - needless to say that is cumbersome at best.

Thanks,
Joe