Ford/NH 1920 clutch replacement time

[theghoul]

The tractor split-teh

After 5 hours of swearing and hating life. We split the tractor to expose the vaunted dual clutch. After reading Mike Wards post, I expected my old clutch to be trashed. However, it didn't look that bad. What do you guys think? The PTO was stuck (free play adjustment and blocking didn't loosen it) so I wanted to change it anyway. But, I'm wondering if I really needed to now. Maybe some finger nut adjustments could have helped.

A few lessons learned (first timer mistakes):

* Renting a steering wheel puller is useless. Use a 2x4. Leave the nut on just a bit for leverage. Spray some PB penetrating oil on it.
* The input shaft moves. Dont keep pulling the tractor apart and watch it stretch.
* Be very careful in removing the hydraulic connections for the remotes. I didnt ruin any, but I was on pins and needles when we began splitting.
* The 7108 loader manual, lies. There is no 5/8 nut to open the lower latch. Try 1 friggen inch. And, it may be paint-stuck. Get some heat and impact wrenches.
* All the weight on the rear of the tractor is near the front, not behind the tires. It dropped forward a bit and freaked us out.

I didn't get a new PTO disc although my bargain basement clutch said it supposed to come with one. I'll get that straightened out before assembly.

The throughout bearing looked rusted, but moved smoothly. Replacing that too.

Lastly, my input shaft seems bent slightly. I rolled on the concrete and it wobbled. I think I may have done that in splitting it. I'm going to try to replace that too.Thanks for the advice guys. I would have never tried this without some of the great information posted here.

P.S. JC
The new clutch seems to be cast iron. I'm a bit unsure. The finish is smooth and no loose shards or reman signs. Perhaps this is an aftermarket. There is no core charge for the old so I'll disassemble it and post some pictures

 

[JC-jetro]

Theghoul

Good information and thanks for the posting. I've got couple of questions here.

- did you get a magnet on the disk housing?
- did the long input shaft was for the pto? in other does inner shaft splined to first clutch disk.
-could you take out the outer splined as easy? I take it the the outer splines couples to the second clutch (transmission) disk.
- After the split and inspection you have done how do you rate overhauling the clutch pack by replacing the disks only?

I sure like to see how first and second disk are separated using a spring loaded ring.

You said that you did not get the pto clutch disk with your purchase. is the pto clutch not connected the whole assembly? is the pto disk just lose in front of the assembly?

JC

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

The tractor split-teh

. What do you guys think? The PTO was stuck (free play adjustment and blocking didn't loosen it) so I wanted to change it anyway. But, I'm wondering if I really needed to now. Maybe some finger nut adjustments could have helped.

The adjustment bolts on the fingers of the pressure plate are for the pto clutch clearance only.
Bill

 

[MIkeWard]

theghoul
Great price on the new clutch!!
I'm amazed at how clean and free of rust your old clutch is.
While you have it open check the drain hole and cotter pin in the bell housing. Several people have drilled it larger. and replaced the cotter pin.
I wish I had when mine was split.

The more I think about it mine 1920 was probably in a flooded area. My 4wheel drive shaft to the front axle was also one third filled with water. Just before I bought it there was a lot of flooding in New England.
Take your time
We had a little trouble putting the two halves back together.
We didn't want to force it. We used the rear tires to really jiggle it till the splines slipped into place. That was a great feeling!
Mike

 

[Turbys_1700]

I don't need that service, but it would be nice to know that company's name should the need ever arise.

Steve

Hi Steve,
Here is their web site...
Carolina Clutch and Brake - Clutch Rebuilders

 

[theghoul]

theghoul
Great price on the new clutch!!
I'm amazed at how clean and free of rust your old clutch is.
While you have it open check the drain hole and cotter pin in the bell housing. Several people have drilled it larger. and replaced the cotter pin.
I wish I had when mine was split.

The more I think about it mine 1920 was probably in a flooded area. My 4wheel drive shaft to the front axle was also one third filled with water. Just before I bought it there was a lot of flooding in New England.
Take your time
We had a little trouble putting the two halves back together.
We didn't want to force it. We used the rear tires to really jiggle it till the splines slipped into place. That was a great feeling!
Mike

Thanks for the advice.. how did specifically push it together? Brute force from the rear? Push with truck? I was going to use your technique of getting long threaded bolts and use them as guides. Also, I'm still hunting for a clutch alignment tool. You said you got one at Pep Boys? Do you recall which on it was?

I used your post and all the feedback as a guideline for doing this. Thanks for being so thorough.

I'm on the cleanup tommorrow and I'll answer some questions if anyone has any.

 

[MIkeWard]

Using long threaded bolts as guides worked well!
Use your input shaft as an alignment tool.

DO NOT force the two halves together!!

Use the large rear tires to slowly roll the back half forward.
if the shaft does not slip in easily its not lined up.
We had to do this several times wiggling and juggling things just a little until the splines lined up and went in the last little bit.

Mike

 

[theghoul]

Thanks for the advice Mike, I'm happy you chimed in.

Got a few things done since I'm waiting on a new shaft.

The bend in the original isn't bad says my mechanic buddy, but I'm taking no chances.


Found a used shaft for $54 plus shipping here:

Ford, 1920, PTO, Sub-Component, INPUT SHAFT - PTO, SBA322512330 at Wengers Of Myerstown

The tractor has 1600 hrs on it and I want to give it the best I can.

I fought the throw-out bearing today.

Not too bad with a puller. I'm hoping I could get the new one on without any damage. If you guys have any suggestions, I'd be grateful.

I remember Mike's post about the spring rusting and twisted on the throw-out bearing assembly. Mine didn't look bad at all. I guess it could stay.

Also, I'm trying to find a puller small enough to remove the pilot bearing. That thing is in there good.

Last question about the clutch alignment. Mike, you mentioned I could use the PTO input shaft for the PTO disc since its removable. Check! What about the outer splines and the transmission disc? Do I need to pre-align those? It doesn't seem to be removable like the pto input shaft.

Steady progress.

 

[MIkeWard]

Thanks for the advice Mike, I'm happy you chimed in.


Last question about the clutch alignment. Mike, you mentioned I could use the PTO input shaft for the PTO disc since its removable. Check! What about the outer splines and the transmission disc? Do I need to pre-align those? It doesn't seem to be removable like the pto input shaft.

Steady progress.

theghoul

I didn't do anything with these. When you wiggle things around when sliding the two halves of the tractor back together, the splines should eventually line up and slide into place

Mike

 

[theghoul]

New (used) input shaft arrived today. Straight as an arrow.

After some greasing and lube. Ready to combine the halves.

I'll post pictures and results this weekend.