Foton 254: timing and valve clearance specs

[D0TC0M]

Merci beaucoup Jacques

While taking off the high pressure lines a bit of diesel came out, which was normal, but even after I removed the lines and put them aside diesel came dripping out. The braided hose from the filter inlet (A) to the manual pump (B) was the culprit. I grinded the compression sleeve off that holds the banjo fitting/connector. When they crimped the compression sleeve on at the factory they split the internal hose part of the connector which caused it to fail. As you can see in the second pic the connector is busted very close to the end of the hose. I have ordered a replacement connector but its 3 or 4 weeks from China. I might just end up silver soldering the holes shut and reuse the connector. My question is do you really need braided hose for this application. I am going to just put normal fuel line hose with hose clamps unless there is a reason that I should not?

 

[jacques54]

Hey DC, it look's like you are going to catch all the flies with your small tooth comb.

As for the fitting and fuel hose do your way, it will be very good. Don't forget these hoses just need to hold 20psi max. and fuel hoses have fabric braided inside the rubber.

On your photos there is just one note. Be very careful of cleanliness. Don't leave the hard line fitting without being dust protected. Blow all metal or rubber lines before putting them back on the fuel system.

Nice job.

 

[D0TC0M]

Finally got some time tonight to look at the timing and after triple checking it here is where the pump timing is right now. The image shows the point when the feul level at the #1 pump outlet connector just starts to increase. Seems that my timing is off but towards which line should I adjust the pump??? top or bottom?

 

[jacques54]

Hi DC,

Your timing is just betwin the TDC (top one) and Fire or timing mark (lower) as what it looks. Just to be sure, when you turn the engine you see the flywheel going down in the opening?
When you check the timing and you pass the mark you must back up at least 1/4 of a turn to take all back lash of the gears in the front cover.

I never did that like your are and it don't mean it is not good.
The way I use to check the timing is first I remove the delivery valve (kind of poppet valve) in the fitting where the injector line is connect. Then I put back that fitting and a bevel cut line thread on. Then when you pump the hand pump the fuel flow before the mark then begin to drip and stop right on the mark. Your done. Don't forget to put back the delivery valve.
I even see someone on the net using air at a low pressure (+- 5psi) instead of fuel that should be less messy and worth a try.

Jacques

 

[jacques54]

Hi DC,

Your timing is just betwin the TDC (top one) and Fire or timing mark (lower) as what it looks. Just to be sure, when you turn the engine you see the flywheel going down in the opening?
When you check the timing and you pass the mark you must back up at least 1/4 of a turn to take all back lash of the gears in the front cover.

I never did that like your are and it don't mean it is not good.
The way I use to check the timing is first I remove the delivery valve (kind of poppet valve) in the fitting where the injector line is connect. Then I put back that fitting and a bevel cut line thread on. Then when you pump the hand pump the fuel flow before the mark then begin to drip and stop right on the mark. Your done. Don't forget to put back the delivery valve.
I even see someone on the net using air at a low pressure (+- 5psi) instead of fuel that should be less messy and worth a try.

Jacques

 

[D0TC0M]

Hi DC,

Your timing is just between the TDC (top one) and Fire or timing mark (lower)

There are 2 lower marks which is the right line to set the timing?

Just to be sure, when you turn the engine you see the flywheel going down in the opening?

The way I checked the timing is I start by turning the flywheel clockwise (as you sit in the tractor seat) about a 1/4 turn before TDC. IF you look in the inspection port the flywheel travels up when turning clockwise. I removed all three high pressure steel lines from the pump to the injectors. Then on the #1 injector connector on the pump I fill the connecting port with diesel fuel so its flush. Now as I turn the flywheel counter clockwise (flywheel moving down in the inspection port) I check the diesel fuel level at the #1 connector on the pump. As soon as it starts to move this is what I think is the start of injection. And in the picture I posted above the timing is shown. It looks like my timing is retarded from what I see. I think I should adjust the timing to align with the lower mark on the flywheel but there are 2 lower marks. Which one of the bottom lines is the correct mark to adjust the timing to?

 

[jacques54]

DC,

Now as I turn the flywheel counter clockwise (flywheel moving down in the inspection port) I check the diesel fuel level at the #1 connector on the pump.

Counter clockwise like if you put your watch in front of the crankshaft pulley. So, in your reply no. 11 the first photo we can see the timing opening just beside the oil pressure sender, to turn in the proper direction the flywheel must go down , clockwise from the front pulley.

While rotating down you should see the first (very lowest) mark then the second (middle one) the set timing mark then the very upper is the TDC that you don't need for now.

 

[D0TC0M]

Ok great, If I understand correctly the lowest mark is not used and I will set my timing to the middle mark like you said thanks. From what I can see the timing is roughly about 12 BTDC right now and it should be 18BTDC (about 6 degrees off). With the timing is set correctly and also the valve clearance set to specs, my engine should run much more efficient. I still have to pull the injectors out and check the popping pressure and spray pattern of each one.

 

[jacques54]

I still have to pull the injectors out and check the popping pressure and spray pattern of each one.

Opening pressure is 13700 KPa or 1987 Psi. as in the manual.

To test it you need a special test bench or go at a diesel fuel shop. If you try to see what it looks like on your engine just be very careful of spray mist that can penetrate your skin and poison you.

 

[D0TC0M]

I was going to bring them to a diesel shop to do this or maybe I'll buy and bench tester on ebay, they sell for about $100.