Foton 254: timing and valve clearance specs

   / Foton 254: timing and valve clearance specs
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I got it timed and have moved to removing the injectors to see the spray pattern. How do you remove the injectors? I was thinking of removing the 2 studs on either side and just unscrewing the injector from the base of the cylinder head but I just wanted to make sure before I take something apart that might be calibrated.

2zi0pzo.jpg
 
   / Foton 254: timing and valve clearance specs #22  
If you try to unscrew the injector body you will take it apart in the hole and it is surely something you don't want to happen.
Put lot of penetrating fluid around, let them soak for a while and take two crow foot bar to pry them evenly. Try to gently hit the side of the upper injector body to make a vibration, helping the penetrating fluid working it's way down. Take your time.

While the injectors will be out, clean the hole in the head and don't let dirt going on the piston as much as you can. Clean the exterior of the injector but for the tip use only a hand brass brush to make sure not damage the tip.
When reassembly, coat the exterior with anti seize before. I am sure you know why.
For the mounting nut in the head, I don't know the torq as I don't find it in the manual. Generally the torq is low to avoid damaging the injector seat.

Jacques :)
 
   / Foton 254: timing and valve clearance specs
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Thanks again Jacques I managed to remove the injectors and clean them and the holes. I also connected the injectors to the high pressure line after to check the spray pattern. I took a video of the spray pattern and also took a video on how I timed the fuel injection pump I will upload it to YouTube later tonight and post the link here.
 
   / Foton 254: timing and valve clearance specs
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Here is a link to my youtube video (please excuse the poor audio quality) showing how I determined the timing of the injection pump. I used a variant of the spill method to determine the exact start of injection to the #1 injector.
 
   / Foton 254: timing and valve clearance specs
  • Thread Starter
#25  
deleted
 
Last edited:
   / Foton 254: timing and valve clearance specs
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I finally started the engine to see how see runs and after a minute or so I was getting a bad knocking sound and I was freaking out. I immediately took a reading of the oil sender and it was indicating lots of pressure at 110-120 ohms. Not being familiar with diesels I immediately thought that I had assembled the valve rocker assembly together wrong and I took the valve cover off to see. I was really surprised to see very little oil being splashed. Is this normal? Anyways I eventually traced the knocking to the middle injector. I confirmed it was the middle injector causing the knocking by loosening the high pressure fitting at the injector. Is there a way to fix this or do I need another injector? How much oil should be splashing up in the valve cover this kinda bothers me too?
 
Last edited:
   / Foton 254: timing and valve clearance specs #27  
DC, I see your video and it is like in the Laidong manual, perfect.

For the fuel knock, loosen (1 turn) the injector tube at the injector and start the engine. Let it run for, let say 30 sec. to be sure all the air is out then tighten the nut. The fuel knock should disappear after having done some short rev. up. (purge F ?) If not take this injector out to check it.

As for the rocker arm lubrication.
The oil come from the rear cam bushing. The camshaft have a groove to 1/3 of it's circumference and let pas oil while this grove meet two hole in the cam bushing (oil pressure and head lub.) at the same time. Me too I figure it like a poor lubrication design but it work so far.

:)
 
   / Foton 254: timing and valve clearance specs #28  
Congratulations on getting it started.

Knocking is usually a fuel system issue, I think you're on the right track if you've isolated it to the middle injector.
 
   / Foton 254: timing and valve clearance specs #29  
Sounds like it might be a sticking injector. Try putting some fuel treatment into the tank and run it. As Jacques says, try and see if you can get air out of it by loosening the fuel line and turn the engine over on the starter until fuel appears, then retighten the fitting. I have had sticking injectors and it can sound really bad if you have never heard them do that before.
Have been reading your posts and am impressed at your thoroughness. You will have that tractor running well because of your efforts. Good luck and let us know how you have made out.
 
   / Foton 254: timing and valve clearance specs
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Well this morning I went to auto store and bought a bottle of diesel injector cleaner. I put 1/2 a bottle in the tank and pumped the manual pump to circulate the cleaner in the injector pump and started the engine up. I ran it 2 or 3 minutes and it really was knocking bad. I took the injector out and passed compressed air in it and the injector was leaking and sticking open really bad. I must have spent 30 minute filling it with cleaner and shoving it through the injector with compressed air. I then let the injector sit in the bottle of cleaner for about 2 or 3 hours. I put it in the tractor and fired her up. At first it was still knocking so I bled the air out and raced the engine a couple times and bingo she let go and works prefect now. yiipeee :) I let it run till the thermostat opened. I took infrared pics of the engine and exhaust nothing was running hotter than 80c. I might need a thermostat because it seemed to open about 68-69c and I believe its supposed to open at 77. She does let out a puff of black smoke when I start it from a hot start and also there is a slight puff of black smoke when I gun it to WOT. Would this be normal?

I'm going to do a muffler mod to reroute the exhaust from exhausting underneath to above the cab shooting straight up with a clapper. Diesel fumes give me a bad headache. I did notice the thermostat housing was leaking coolant against the block so I'll have to remove the coolant and regasket it. Tightening the housing cover bolts did not help. I am really glad to have this site with such good people to help me. So far I have fixed so many bugs and annoyances that I noticed last winter its going to be so enjoyable using it. Now I'm waiting for my hydraulic pipes to come in from China to finish putting the hydraulic system together. I really did a complete tear down of the whole system including the steering diverter. I had the piping modified so I can insert a pressure gauge so I can set the pressure regulator at the multi-valve properly.
 
Last edited:

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2005 GROVE RT700E ROUGH TERRAIN CRANE (A50854)
2005 GROVE RT700E...
2014 KALMAR 4X2 YARD DOG (A50854)
2014 KALMAR 4X2...
PLEASE VIEW ALL PICTURES!! (A50774)
PLEASE VIEW ALL...
2022 Gravely Pro-Turn 600 Zero-Turn Mower with 72-Inch X-Factor 3 Deck (A51039)
2022 Gravely...
2011 L3 GENERATOR SET (A51222)
2011 L3 GENERATOR...
Bus (A50323)
Bus (A50323)
 
Top