Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles

[Kodiak]

Just a suggestion since your already considering skidding along on the loader bucket. You might try loading it on the trailer backwards. It might be easier to manuever, especially if you use the steering brakes.

On the dealer end. He might have a fork lift or larger loader around to support the front end of your tractor. Didn't you mention that he was more of a construction equipment dealer.

Good luck with tractor and hope you feel better.

 

[Von]

Dave, If it was my tractor, I would just remove the hub from the rim and then weld it back on to the axle from the side facing the wheel. Tell them that they will need to change the seal as well, as the heat might damage it. This will hold for loading and unloading on the trailer to get the tractor to the dealers. Just skid the tractor to the welder on the bucket if you can't get the welder to the tractor. Even one of those small 110v mig welders will do the trick. Good luck and let us know how you make out with it.

 

[Soundguy]

This sounds like the best advise by far, for safety and tractor health. I would not trust the jbweld for this situation for a second. If the dealer was willing to really lower the transport charge, then they should be fine with replacing a seal on that end of the hub instead.. should be cheaper for them anyway. And safer for the driver. I wouldn't want a wheel coming off while loading a tractor on a trailer.

Soundguy


<font color=blue>"Dave, If it was my tractor, I would just remove the hub from the rim and then weld it back on to the axle from the side facing the wheel. Tell them that they will need to change the seal as well, as the heat might damage it. This will hold for loading and unloading on the trailer to get the tractor to the dealers. Just skid the tractor to the welder on the bucket if you can't get the welder to the tractor. Even one of those small 110v mig welders will do the trick. Good luck and let us know how you make out with it. "

 

[DVerbarg]

<font color=blue>Where is the tractor now? In the dirt or on concrete?</font color=blue>

Its in dirt. About 50ft away is the gravel driveway.

Please forgive my ignorance but what is a "large A frame on wheels"?

 

[DVerbarg]

<font color=blue>Just a suggestion since your already considering skidding along on the loader bucket. You might try loading it on the trailer backwards. It might be easier to manuever, especially if you use the steering brakes.</font color=blue>

The trailer at my disposal (used to be mine but I sold it to my parents about two years ago) is a 16ft landscape flatbed. Because of the axles' location loading the tractor on the trailer backwards would put too much weight on the tongue. Otherwise it is a great idea.

Talked to the dealer and they would just use the FEL to drag/walk the unit onto the trailer. I thought they might use some other piece of equipment, but no. Since they are just going to drag/walk the unit I figured I would attempt the same.

 

[Soundguy]

Thinking 'eqyptian' here.. got some round landscape timbers or fence posts... could use them as roller bearings under the fel.. just have a 2 man crew to swap out the posts as they pass from rear to front...

Soundguy

 

[DVerbarg]

Von,

<font color=blue>I would just remove the hub from the rim and then weld it back on to the axle from the side facing the wheel</font color=blue>

It may be hard to believe that someone here on TBN doesn't know how to weld or have a welder but this would sum up my condition. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif For quite a few years I have wanted to learn and have been reading some of the other posts about how to get started and what type of welder to purchase as my first.

I don't know any friends who weld either. There is a metal fabrication shop in town (make dump truck beds) but wouldn't want to drag the unit 4 miles to them.

 

[DVerbarg]

<font color=blue>I would not trust the jbweld for this situation for a second. If the dealer was willing to really lower the transport charge, then they should be fine with replacing a seal on that end of the hub instead.. should be cheaper for them anyway.</font color=blue>

Have you used the jb weld before? Don't know how strong it is but as long as it could hold it for the drive onto the trailer I would be happy. Once on the trailer if it broke during the transportation it wouldn't be the end of the world as it would be easy to just raise the front end using the FEL and just drag the front end off the trailer.

I would agree that it might be a little unnerving to have the wheel come off while loading on the trailer but unless I am missing something (it wouldn't be the first time /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif) it shouldn't be dangerous.

 

[EdKing]

I have a mechanic friend that swears by JBWeld. If you go that route, just keep the bucket of the FEL skimming the ground, that way if the JBWeld lets go, the FEL will still be supporting the front end.

 

[TBone]

Dave,

I get quarterly profit sharing checks from JB Weld I use so much of the stuff (well, at least I should). I have used it for lots of stuff but I would never try it on something like this.

It is a two part epoxy, very good for lots of things but I'm afraid this is beyond its capabilities.

TBone