Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles

   / Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles
  • Thread Starter
#61  
<font color=blue>Wheels falling off? Dealers out of business? "hidden" transport charges?. Boomers just aren't worth the risk. </font color=blue>

True and to think that I bought blue because green had steering issues! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

What about warranty coverage? We know that NH does not cover any transportation, but what about Kubota and JD?
 
   / Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles #62  
I hope the "naysayers" haven't talked you out of a possible simple solution. I used to work on electron microscopes and had occasion to see epoxy bonds at magnifications of several thousand times. Epoxy can bond to a glass laboratory slide so tightly that, while drying, it can cause the slide to shatter from the slight shrinkage and super adhesion. For about $5 you can buy the long-cure JBWeld and give it a try. It will work fine on cast iron, cast aluminum, or your favorite casting rod./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

All kidding aside...Take your hub off your tire, clean both surfaces, mix the epoxy according to instructions, apply to both surfaces, place the pieces together and let it set for 24 hours to cure. After the cure, put your wheel back on (lugs just snug). Let your wheel down until it is supporting normal weight and then rotate your steering wheel left and right to "test" your bond. If it works, you can thank me for the idea and take a picture to send to JBWeld. If it doesn't, I'll take all the abuse the other guys can dish out. I'll even do it with a smile. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Check out this info from JBWeld's website. They are suggesting repair of a broken or chipped propeller on a boat and it has been used by many to repair engine castings. There are many types of this product, but for your temporary
repair, I think the off-the-shelf variety at the auto parts store or hardware store will work fine.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.jbweld.co.uk/files/prodb.html>JBWeld</A>

The most important thing is that you get your tractor back to the dealer as quickly and as safely as possible. It doesn't matter how I or anyone else would do it. I'm sure you'll make the best decision for you.
 
   / Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles #63  
I wouldn't do anything to any of the parts with out the dealer that's reapiring it "ok"ing it first!!! If you weld, glue, or tap any of the parts, you may end up being stuck with a big repair bill because the broken parts won't be accepted for warr.!! I've seen it happen before!

I've seen broken front ends on compacts before from loader work, but this is my first Boomer. Compacts just don't have the steel in them to take a continual dose of HD use! HD loader work is very hard on a tractor, and is considered border line abuse even on an ag. tractor!! This is why "wheel loaders" were invented!
Robert
 
   / Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles #64  
<font color=blue>I've seen broken front ends on compacts before from loader work</font color=blue>

Are you referring to your friend's Rhino?
 
   / Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles #65  
<font color=blue>"We know that NH does not cover any transportation, but what about Kubota and JD?"</font color=blue>

Dave,

My Kubota manual clearly states that warranty work is done at the dealer and it is the owners' responsibility to transport it there.

My dealer has promised to help me out with transportation if he is in the area. Problem is I am not in a location that he is likely to be in.

My hope is I won't need service but if I do I have a neighbor that has a heavy trailor I can borrow.

TBone
 
   / Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles #66  
Actually, i wasn't thinking of the Rhino. I was thinking of a AWD Mitsubsihi that was driveing along with a bucket load of dirt, and one wheel hit a hole in the ground about 2"deep that made the loader bounce, and it broke the front end right off the tractor!! I don't remember the model.

I once saw a Kubota that was doing a lot of dirt work and it cracked a front spindle, it was about a 30 HP tractor. Another Kubota i saw one time after a summer of dirt work, had berring and seal trouble in the front end.

One summer i was doing a lot of land clearing with a 70HP AWD ag. tractor, useing the loader to push out trees, and clean out a ditch that is about 200' long. All of a sudden while backing up with a full load i heard a bang and grinding noise, and stoped moveing. I had shelled out the front ring and pinion!!!

HD dirt work is very hard on any tractor, let alone these light duty compacts!
Robert
 
   / Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles #67  
True indeed. My Uncle had (key word is "had") a Cub Cadet like mine and he broke it almot in half using it like a D8 Caterpillar. Needless to say, I have learned from his mistake and use mine like an "overgrown lawnmower". I save the big work for my brother-in-law's 555B.
 
   / Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles
  • Thread Starter
#68  
Finally loaded on the trailer!

The suggestion of using a trailer as a temporary "front axle" worked great to get the tractor off the soft uneven ground and onto a straight part of the driveway. Set the NH "tricycle" down and backed the landscape trailer gate right up to the front wheels. Lowered the FEL on the deck with enough pressure to raise the front axle and drove it right up. It was actually too easy. No vehicle available to pull the trailer on Saturday so will take it to a dealer on Sunday.

Not taking it to the dealer that I had been talking to because they got "miffed" at me for "going over their head" and asking NH to try to help out. So I am taking it to a dealer that is 75 minutes away in a different direction. Actually prefer this other dealer (75 minutes away) because they are rural and driving there does not require the number of stops and starts that would be involved if I drove towards Chicago.

Thanks for all your help. Will let everyone know how the repairs go. Hopefully they are non-eventful.
 
   / Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles
  • Thread Starter
#69  
<font color=blue>Compacts just don't have the steel in them to take a continual dose of HD use! HD loader work is very hard on a tractor, and is considered border line abuse even on an ag. tractor!!</font color=blue>

This seems to be a little too much of a "blanket statement". I can understand if the FEL is not engineered for the tractor BUT, and this is a big BUT, an FEL made by the tractor manufacturer to the stress limitations designed into the tractor (regardless of size or type) should not overstress the tractor. If it does it is an error on the part of the manufacturer and the engineers not the user. I bought a tractor to use it to its full limitations not to use it just as an overgrown lawnmower.

This engineering to the stresses of the tractor is THE reason why I bought the loader from the tractor mfg and not an aftermarket unit. Nothing wrong with the aftermarket units, they can be just as strong or stronger than an OEM, sometimes too strong and end up overstressing the tractor and invalidating a warranty.

Just my $.02
 
   / Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles #70  
Can't have it both ways. Over here you state all compacts are not designed for heavy FEL work. On the Chinese forum you use it to blast and point out a defect with Chinese tractors. Even say you friend overloaded it. Which is it?
 

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