Freezing hydraulics

   / Freezing hydraulics #1  

JCA

Silver Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Messages
122
Location
Maine
Tractor
Kubota B7510
Hi folks. My B7510 has 23 hours on it. Whenever I use it in cold weather, it takes about 20 minutes for the hydraulics to thaw. At first it's just the "float" detent; in colder weather it's the whole thing. My dealer told me to drill a hole in the bottom of the detent, so I did that, but it didn't help. Service department is closed today. Anyone else dealt with this? What's the next step?

Jim
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #2  
There are a few recent threads on this subject...You are not alone. I had the same problem. There are a few things you can do. First thing is go out & buy a spray can of white litheum grease. It comes in a can like wd40. Spray it onto the joystick valve & the control valve under your right root, under the floor behind the right front tire...coat them well. This will both seal them & not allow ice or snow to stick to them. Second thing you can do it plug in either a hair dryer of heat gun & warm these valves up. It takes about 7 minutes. Now the last thing you could try but I personally dont think it makes a difference is to change you hydraulic fluid & use super UDT kubota hydraulic oil. It is expensive...in my area it's $75 per 5 gallons, In my machine it takes 11.2 gallons! Good luck...Unfortunatly Kubota started using different valve in the last year or 2 & these are the problems they are having with them!
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #3  
I am having the same problem with my loader. I tried several things until my dealer suggested i put alittle bit of antifrezze mixed in with the fluid. I havent had the problem since.
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #4  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I am having the same problem with my loader. I tried several things until my dealer suggested i put alittle bit of antifrezze mixed in with the fluid. I havent had the problem since. )</font>

Do I understand you correctly???????? Your dealer suggested putting anti freeze in with the hydraulic fluid??? I would sure want to run this one by Kubota Technical Services before I did it and only if they gave me a written authorization that it was OK to do, so when the system bit the dust, I would have someone to blame that couldn't deny it. I have heard of a lot of things in the past, but this is definitely a new one for me.
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #5  
I can't believe any dealer would say to put anti-freeze in hydraulic fluid. Water in a hydraulic system does not work. Water in the system will accelerate the wear in the system. If I did understand and you have done this, take it out.
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #6  
OH My, That's a big No No. Drain that crap out of your system before you really mess it up.
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #7  
Hi all -

We just had a "nice snow" (New England term for a serious amout of the white stuff! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ) - so had an opportunity to run my B7610 while its cold out.

The block heater the dealer installed works great - she fires right up with no complaints - but the hydraulics I give plenty of time to "limber up".

That being said - I had problems with my FEL stick not wanting to move to the right / bucket dump position. Up / down / bucket curl all worked fine - just wouldn't go to dump?!?

After a bit of "forcing" - the lever would move a small amount - the bucket would move to full dump in @ 20 seconds. After several minutes of cycling - it must have generated enough warmth to get *unstuck* - and everything was fine again?!?

I am wondering if this symptom is consistent with the loss of the FEL "float detent" that I have had missing since about 20-30 hours? I think that both functions (FEL Down & Bucket Dump) are activated when the valve spool moves "Down" / into the valve body. Maybe the common issue is in the spring area at the lower end of the valve assembly?

I'll be talking to the dealer about this one for sure - the bucket dump action doesn't "feel" quite smooth anymore - worried that the spool is scratched.

In the meantime - I've bungeed the FEL lever over to the extreme right - so hopefully when needed I can pull the lever back to center.

(Hmmm - thought just occurred to me: if the lever sticks in the "bucket dump" position - I won't be able to start the tractor hydraulics! Doh! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I guess I'm going to un-bungee after all!)

Cheers,

Dan
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #8  
Dan,

I've had the exact same problem a couple of times in the last day or two (tractor has been outside) with my B2910. Additionally the loader will not go into float.
 
   / Freezing hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#9  
HI folks. I may have posted this already, but what the hey.

I don't know how the innards of a hydaulic valve fit together, but I'll tell you my experience and what the dealer said. I had problems (at first) with the loader/blower not going into the float position. Later I noticed that the valve was freezing even more...woudn't move in certain directions. I asked the dealer ONLY about the float position problem (haven't talked to him about the problem since), and he told me about visiting the factory and watching them make these detents with too little grease. He also told me what they do at their shop: to drill a small hole in the bottom of the detent unit that controls the up-down motion...at the lowest point. It's a little tricky, because the lowest point on the detent is a sort of lip...not so easy to drill through, but it's not that hard.

Anyway, I drilled. I expected water to come trickling out, but it didn't. And at first, it didn't seem to do much. But we've had very cold weather lately, and it hasn't frozen up in the last two weeks, so I think it's fixed. So even though the fix involves the detent, and it was only the "float" problem that I was inquiring about, drilling this hole seems to have kept the boom-rotation hydraulic control from freezing (not just the float).

On the other hand, I did NOT drill out the other detent and when I put the FEL on recently, I found that the other directlion (bucket roll, side-to-side) DID freeze up. So I'm pretty sure it was the hole that fixed it.

Jim
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #10  
Jim - Can you post pics of exactly were you drilled this hole? I am kinda desperate, I plow commercially with my Kubota & I have been keeping the furnace on in my garage 24/7 because of this problem & it's costing me big money! I usually only use the furnace when I am working in the garage. We have been getting at least a storm per week & this week 2 large storms. Also, What is the name of the dealer you use? My dealer is clueless about this problem. I will haul this 5000 lb hunk of metal up to Maine if I can't figure this out myself! I bought a riding 42" snowblower last year & when it broke down, the only one I was able to find that could properly fix it was a dealer in Maine up in Bethel on Rt 26. I hauled that machine 5 hours but it got fixed properly!
Thanks for your help!
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #11  
Grassgod:

To save on heating costs have you considered throwing a tarp over the tractor and just running a small electric heater with fan. It may be cheaper than heating the whole garage. The heater could also be set on timmer so it doesn't have to be run continuously. Trial and error for settings.

Egon
 
   / Freezing hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#12  
The dealer is Wescott and Sons in Gorham. Phone # is 207.839.4500 .

I'll try to get a picture of it today, but I'm not sure how successful I'll be. It's a small hole (and kinda lousy work, to be honest) and I've only got a cheap digital camera to work with (owned by my 7-year-old son).

Might be best just to try to describe it clearly. Do you know where the "detents" are? Those two hexagonal-tubular things sticking out of the bottom of the loader-control valve? I would estimate that there about 2" long. Because the whole unit is mounted at an angle, they stick out at an angle. They have a flat bottom, a circular indentation around the outside edge, leaving a "lip". I drilled right through that lip, at the lowest point, with about a 1/16" bit, drilling up along the length of the detent but at a slight angle towards the middle (to make sure my imprecise hole went to the inside and not to the outside).

That may not be very helpful, but I'm afraid my photo might be even worse. I'll give it a try later though.

Jim
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #13  
I do know where the detents are. Do the detents come off? I thought I read somewhere that you can unscrew the entire detent off the valve, Put it in a vise on your bench & then drill it, Is that acurate? Did you drill your mounted on the valve? I'll still like ot see a pic if you can manage one but I dont have a good understanding now, that was a great & detailed description you posted for me , Thanks a million!
 
   / Freezing hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I don't know if the detents come off; probably they do, but it wasn't something I wanted to mess with. I've heard that it's a bit like repairing a watch, with things springing apart. So I did a rough job, with a hand drill and a lot of slipping/maiming (to the detent, not myself, fortunately).

Jim
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #15  
I was told by my dealer's ace mechanic a while back that my BX1500 detent was not susceptible to the drilling operation. Today I took him a photo (attached) of the offending detent and asked was he really sure I couldn't drill a drain hole. He said he had thought there was something behind the hole location that shouldn't be drilled into but had just discovered that was not the case. So he marked the spot to drill (see + on the picure) and said make a hole not larger than 1/16" ( to discourage crud from getting in).

I'll do that as soon as the temperature in my garage gets above +5 degrees and will report on results. I got a parts list blowup of the control valve and there sure are a whole lot of things inside. I'm inclined to take his recommendation not to unscrew the detent assembly seriously. Stay tuned.

Don
 

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   / Freezing hydraulics #16  
Following up on yesterday's post I drilled a 1/16" hole at the indicated position on the detent housing. After carefully avoiding breaking the drill I finally got nervous after having reached a depth of about 1/8" and called the dealer's wizard. He said the thickness of the detent cap was maybe 1/4" instead of the sheet metal I was expecting and there was nothing serious to kill inside if I overshot.

Forged on and eventually broke through. Reamed out to 5/64" on wizards's advice and thawed out detent with heat gun. Got about 10 drops of water. Per wizard, tried blowing some WD40 into the hole - not easy. Will report on success/failure of this exercise.

Wiz said BX is not the only Kub with such problems, as we have been reading on these threads. It is common in many Kubota models and other tractors like New Holland which they also handle.
 
   / Freezing hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#17  
For what it's worth, my tractor--which had this problem--is a B7510 not a BX. So yeah, it's not just the BXs.

Hope it works for you. Keep in mind that mine stuck once more after I had drilled the hole, then stopped and hasn't done it since.

Jim
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #18  
I have had this problem on and off ,today I went out to fix the problem again .

Switched the quick connect lines around ,that didn't work ,wondered why it only happened some times.

Lifted or lowered the 3 point hitch and all off a sudden away it went everything worked as it should ,

I then started putting on the chains ,played around quite awhile , went to put the tractor away and again

I got the same problem , forgot Ihad moved the 3 point hitch again ,moved it back into a different

position and everything worked as it should again.

Don't know why but I guess your 3 point must be up or down or neutral forget which one but hope

this helps.
 
   / Freezing hydraulics #19  
Wow! You may have set a record, reviving a 13 year old thread...:eek:
 

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