From Deere X585 to Kubota BX24 w/mods

   / From Deere X585 to Kubota BX24 w/mods #11  
LBrown59 said:
********
At least on the BX23 you always know where the pedal is cause your foot's always on it.

I agree that the treadle is better. After working with my FEL, going back and forth in short bursts a whole bunch of times, I find that I don't even think about where my foot is, it becomes so natural. I am not sure why they changed it on the BX 24.
 
   / From Deere X585 to Kubota BX24 w/mods #13  
RayBo said:
I know, I almost kept both but there was a lot of overlap between the machines.. I had the Hydro Johnny Bucket Sr for the Deere, which I liked so much I needed *more*.. which is why I got the BX. Although the Deere was a little tank with it's 4WD, the Kubota is really a better built machine where it counts. The only pain in the ***** with BX is getting use to the ROPS being in the way (don't ask about my garage door opening first time entering.. ouch!) asd the hydro pedal arrangement. I must say the twin pedal set up on the Deere's is much nicer, especially for quick forward to reverse action.
There is some overlap between my BX 23 and my CC GT2554 but I find that to be a plus for me, as it allows me to do more than one thing at A time by having 6 different attachments always installed and on the ready.
 
   / From Deere X585 to Kubota BX24 w/mods
  • Thread Starter
#14  
NY_Yankees_Fan said:
How about some pictures and details, size of wheels, mounting, etc, on the dolly for the FEL??

Great project well done!
OK, a picture is worth a thousand words, so next time I have the bucket and hoe on the machine I will take pictures of the dollys. In the meantime, there are 4 seperate dollys all with 4 swivel casters each - all with wood (2x8) tops where they contact the implements; a small one for the hoe bucket, a larger one for the hoe frame - these are made from steel pipe and angle iron. For the bucket, 1 long skinny one (bucket) and shorter one (stand) with castors mounted to angle iron, then angle iron mounted to ends of the 2x8 material.

I tack welded the casters to the angle rather than bolt them. If I ever need to replace, I'll just grind off the tacks. Bought heavy duty 3" casters at HD, but Harbor Freight has some really nice (330lb rated) cast iron w/molded rubber castors for half what I paid for solid plastic @HD. I bought some from HF for next time - could not resist! got them yesterday and they are really nice - very heavy duty.
 
   / From Deere X585 to Kubota BX24 w/mods
  • Thread Starter
#15  
LBrown59 said:
There is some overlap between my BX 23 and my CC GT2554 but I find that to be a plus for me, as it allows me to do more than one thing at A time by having 6 different attachments always installed and on the ready.
Yes, I agree with your point, but I got close to $10K for my X585 and attachments which took a good bite out of the cost of the Kubota.. If I didn't get a good price in selling, I would have kept it (and built another shed)
 
   / From Deere X585 to Kubota BX24 w/mods #16  
RayBo said:
Rather than spend close to $2K for the Kubota power angle plow set up (and have to remove the grill guard!) I adapted my Deere plow set up to the BX24... Some steel, welding, kubota grey paint and hyro hoses.. works like a charm!
Why do you need the plow when the BX has A FEL ?
 
   / From Deere X585 to Kubota BX24 w/mods #17  
RayBo said:
Yes, I agree with your point, but I got close to $10K for my X585 and attachments which took a good bite out of the cost of the Kubota.. If I didn't get a good price in selling, I would have kept it (and built another shed)
Sounds like it was a good plan for you.

I was going to go with a BX1500 with a rear tiller and a front blade as an additional tractor to my BX23 until I discovered I could buy the CC GT2554 with Tiller plus Front blade and the 54'' Mower deck for about half the money for the BX1500.
 
   / From Deere X585 to Kubota BX24 w/mods #18  
LBrown59 said:
Why do you need the plow when the BX has A FEL ?

Because a plow is intended for removing snow more efficiently than a loader bucket that is designed for moving dirt more efficiently. It is called the right tool for the job. It is like using a screwdriver for a chisel. It might work, but not as well as using a chisel for a chisel and a screwdriver for a screwdriver. Cave men used rocks in place of hammers, since hammers weren't invented yet. After the invention of the hammer, most intelligent people used hammers instead of rocks. The same theory applies today.. Only cave men use rocks in place of hammers. I wonder if ..... oh..... forget it.......:rolleyes:
 
   / From Deere X585 to Kubota BX24 w/mods
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Dusty said:
Because a plow is intended for removing snow more efficiently than a loader bucket that is designed for moving dirt more efficiently. It is called the right tool for the job. It is like using a screwdriver for a chisel. It might work, but not as well as using a chisel for a chisel and a screwdriver for a screwdriver. Cave men used rocks in place of hammers, since hammers weren't invented yet. After the invention of the hammer, most intelligent people used hammers instead of rocks. The same theory applies today.. Only cave men use rocks in place of hammers. I wonder if ..... oh..... forget it.......:rolleyes:
Yeah, what he (Dusty) said! And if we get a blizzard, I can use the loader to pick up and move the snow I plowed into piles. To answer LBrown's question further, it would probably take me twice as long to do my driveway with the FEL. Also, people here say the bucket gets packed with snow and does not come out easy and also wears the cutting edge of the bucket down, which is not replaceable in the same manner as the plow edge..
 
   / From Deere X585 to Kubota BX24 w/mods #20  
RayBo said:
>>> >>>The first thing I did was put lights on the ROPS, 2 forward trapezoids and one rear flood, separate switches. OK, I disregarded the decals for idiots that do silly things and welded the light brackets on the bar, snaked the wiring through the ROPS for neatness and drilled three 1 / 4 inch holes through the center of the light brackets to pull wires through. I have an engineering background, and those 3 little holes in those locations wont do squat to the bar strength.
>>>> >>>>
Another way I like is magnetic attached lites/ * because
*No holes or welding on ROPS = quick attach detach of the lites and a 360 degree coverage area.
 
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