Buying Advice front axle advice

[arthr31]

Hi all,

...Need some pointers/advice here. I'm trying to change the front axle fluid on my 1601. However, I can't budge the "filler nut" that is on the top of the right-hand side of the axle. I'm using a 1 1/8 socket and trying with all my measly might. I haven't tried a breaker yet, but worry about doing so. Also, I'm worried about stripping the nut and then being really lost!

Any suggestions for me? Also, I am looking at the right nut for the oil fil hole?
Thanks. -art

 

[mark777]

Arthr31,

Sometimes you just have to use the breaker bar. I have seen them too tight, missing the nylon or rubber gasket and don't know why people do that. I've never broken one yet.

Good luck,

Mark

 

[arthr31]

Thanks for the reply, Mark. Follow-up question, is a 1 /18 socket the right size for this bolt? I sized it up pretty good with a caliper and took it to the hw store but that was the closest size I could get.. Thanks, -art

 

[pruntyc]

You also might want to use some PB blaster, on it and let it soak for a while, or better yet if you have some Koil, I hope I spelled that right, it is even better. I'm sure it will help some. Walmart has the PB Blaster.

 

[reb]

Since these tractors are metric, I would bet it is a 28mm, though 1 1/8" is only .575 mm (about .023") larger. The 1 1/8" socket should work ok.

 

[arthr31]

thanks for the response guys. I went and got some liquid grease today and a new breaker. I'll try in the AM to get this bolt off.

Mark, you mentioned that you've seen washers missing on these axles. Is there supposed to be a washer of some type on the 1601 front axle? I definitely don't have one... Thanks. -art

 

[HonourMe]

An old mechanics trick is to gently tap the top of the bolt a few times. Then using a drift pin and hammer, give the bolt a rap at 12/ 3/ 6/ and 9 o'clock on the flats of the head. This will help to break the bolt loose. If that doesn't work, then you can apply some heat to the head of the bolt. Sometimes these bolts are installed at the factory with a Loctite product so they won't work loose while the tractor is in service. If when you get the bolt out, you find that there is a blue or orange substance on the threads, that is the Loctite product. If that is the case, then it should be renewed when reinstalling the bolt. There is no substitute for the proper socket. If the bolt head is a metric size, then you should use a metric sized socket. The gripping force of a socket isn't at the edges of the hex, but rather at the middle of the hex. If you use the socket that is close, it will put pressure on the edges of the hex and this can cause the edge points to fracture and round off. There is no substitute for the proper tool. Also constant pressure as applied by a breaker bar is the way to go. If that doesn't work, don't force it, get a longer bar. I have rarely seen bolts shear when you are trying to loosen them, but have seen many shear by over tightening them.

 

[arthr31]

Thanks again for the input, guys. I finally got a chance to work on this today-- I used some liquid grease, let it set while I changed my fuel filter and cleaned out the bowl. Then, tapped the bolt a few times, all around and on the head. Didn't even need a breaker after that!! I did tighten it a tiny bit before getting it to back off-- this was recommended to me...

So, now I have another question, more like a riddle. How long will your front-wheel drive work in a yanmar with nearly no oil in the axle?

(Answer: Apparently for at least a year!!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I only got a few oz of sludge to come out of the axle housing!!!! I'm going to fill up with 80w-90 and then probably change it again after the winter. )

Thanks. -art

 

[Cord]

I'd recommend draining the axle first. I too found my axle to be out of oil. I topped it off and found the leak to be a bad axle seal. When I drained the axle all the oil was contaminated with water from the prior owner.

 

[arthr31]

Thanks. I discovered how much was there because I was draining the axle. No sign of a bad seal, however. I should also note that once I drained the two bevel housings for the wheels, I finally ended up with about 1.5 litres +/- of sludge. I figure that it has been a LONG time since the axle oil had been changed...

 

[mark777]

arthr31,

We had a YM1610 last year where the FWD just stopped working. Thankfully this doesn't happen very often, but the axle was packed with sand-silt-mud and after the tear down we discovered every beveled gear, wheel bearings and machined hard surfaces were worn beyond repair. Nothing was broken (chipped or cracked gears) Just worn to the point where no gears meshed from years of polishing away the metal. The wheel bearings sounded like a baby rattle when cleaned with solvent. Very expensive repair.

So, as many have already suggested, it's a good idea to get the crud out of your front end. Even change it as often as your engine oil for a while.

Sorry I missed your other post...I have seen fiber, nylon and soft metal washers on the filler plugs on some, but not all front axles.

Dick, wasn't that stuff called Krozoil?? Orange can? Penetrates to 1/1,000,000th of an inch. Used it often in the '80s but it is very difficult to find now. It was, hands down, the best I'd ever used.

Mark

 

[pruntyc]

Mark, I went out and looked on the can, I like it so well I bought a gallon of it. It is Kroil, the only place I know to get it is from the web. I paid $35.50 for it with shipping, from Nashville. It is made by Kano Laboratories, in Nashville, TN. They had, or maybe still have a deal, they call a smart deal, where you order a gallon which is normally $23.90, they also send you a 10oz can of aerokroil which is normally $8.50, and shipping is normally 12.00, all for $ 35.50. I think that is for new customers, to get new business. So if you want the deal of course you have to ask for it to get it.

 

[arthr31]

Thanks, Mark. I found the washers once the bolt came off. I have rubber washers which are seated in a channel under the bolt head. Nice design.


I'm following the recommendations of trying to "flush" the axle out. I'll probably moderately use the tractor now until snow and then only for snow removal. I'd like to change the axle oil again before snow, but at the least right after snow season ends.

The goo which slid out of the bevel housings looked really like red sludge. And, there's definitely some sand like content to it.. I found similar goo in my fuel filler bowl yesterday while I cleaned that too. Even though the tractor was sold to me as having had all new fluids and filters, I seriously doubt that some of this work was done-- I've only put 50hrs on the meter and 13 months on the tractor!!!

Anyway, thanks again all for the input here. -Art