Dont have the proper fluid for it right now. Will wait until I get some I guess.
Something a little bit weird is that I have now watched a number of videos on changing front axle fluid. They all show using "fill" level holes to get the correct amount of fluid in. Makes sense to me. But my manual only shows drain plugs to get the oil out and specifies using the fill port cap to check for proper level (just like an oil dipstick). Going by this method, its low.
Watching the videos, it almost seemed universal for front axles to have "fill" level holes. Have not seen a single on like mine that uses a dipstick in the fill cap.
These modern compact tractor 4wd front axles are mostly similar designs copying a patent on the double bevel front drive whose "exclusive use" expired in the 1980s. It was novel at the time, and still very good
Some of the original double bevel gear drive front axles had dipsticks, some had level plugs, but most simply measured down through the fill port to ensure that one could see the horizontal axle was touching enough oil to be wet. In those, normal oil level was half way up the horizontal axle.
This oil depth is based on the way the front axle works. It is a splash oil system. There is no pump. Bearings are either submerged - like the outer oil wheel and bevel bearings, or they are lubed by splash like the front differential and pinions.
NOTE: Early front axle housings of this type were built without a vent, and some still are. The vent is important. Without it, the hot/cold pressure difference inside the front axles tended to cause oil leaks at the wheel bearing seal housings. Especially in hot weather.
It should vent in a way that doesn't allow water to get in.
As to what type of oil to use in the front axle housing, there is a long-standing debate between using a low viscosity trans/hydraulic fluid like John Deere HyGard.....or using a multiviscosity type SAE gear lube of type 70/80w-90. You will find some manuals that allow either type; others have a preference. The viscosity is measured differently between the two types of fluid. However, both the trans/hydraulic and the gear lube are close to the same viscosity as a 20 wt. motor oil.
If it were my new tractor I would simply check that there is oil visible to touch the internal horizontal axle, and if so use it. Half way up is optimum.
On a new tractor I like to change all the oils & filters quite soon - somewhere between 20 and 50 hours just to get out any manufacturing debris. There is always some. Then go to normal extended intervals.
Congratulations on your new tractor!
rScotty
