Front Axle Pumpkin Vent

[arrabil]

A) I went out and looked in the garage.... it came with the Front Hitch Kit BM19575. Its part J (Hose Guide) of the kit but doesn't have a Deere part number. I can't find it in JDParts either. Its supposed to be for routing the front implement hoses. But yeah, I use it to route the FEL hoses too.

B) The hose you're pointing to runs to the side of the air intake hose. The air hose is not pinched in the slightest.

BUT, since you ask, the hose (#8) to the left of B goes to the top of the engine to some kind of breather cap (#4) or something. I attached a parts breakdown. That hose is also not pinched, but something there (or somewhere) is leaking like a sieve. I just noticed that today. I attached some pictures of the leak. Any ideas where thats coming from? Wish I could get a better picture but the entire valve cover, top to bottom, is covered in oil. And you can see where its leaking to.

 

[arrabil]

Found the bracket! Its on the 59" Snowblower parts breakdown. Parts #14, #19, and #20 in the attached PDF.

 

[dfkrug]

That hose is also not pinched, but something there (or somewhere) is leaking like a sieve. I just noticed that today. I attached some pictures of the leak. Any ideas where thats coming from?

Either the breather tube is leaking (#8 in your drawing), or your fuel overflow tube
is allowing diesel spillage to land on the valve cover. Your leak looks chronic, so
I lean toward the former.

Maybe you can remove the muffler to see in there, and do a valve
adjustment while you are in there. The muffler is easy to remove.

 

[arrabil]

It isn't diesel spillage no matter how much I'd like that to be the answer.

So you can get the valve cover off without removing the fuel tank? I had the muffler off when I first got it. I just assumed the tractor was ludicrously loud because the muffler had a hole in it or the gaskets were bad. Nope. Turns out the tractor is just that fricken loud.

Did you post pics of the valve adjustment in your 4300 thread? Off to read the tech section on it.....

 

[dfkrug]

So you can get the valve cover off without removing the fuel tank? I had the muffler off when I first got it. I just assumed the tractor was ludicrously loud because the muffler had a hole in it or the gaskets were bad. Nope. Turns out the tractor is just that fricken loud.

Did you post pics of the valve adjustment in your 4300 thread? Off to read the tech section on it.....

I adjusted mine valves with the engine out, which is cheating. It looks like you can remove the valve cover on an installed engine if you get that
muffler out of the way. There was a discussion about that in my 4300
rebuild thread, if you want to search for it.

BTW, if it was your valve cover leaking, you would not see oil on top
of the cover. That gasket is a rubber ring and works well.

Yeah, the tractor is much louder (and stinkier) than my Kioti.

 

[arrabil]

The tech manual says the muffler and air filter housing have to be removed to do a valve adjustment. No mention of the tank. Thankfully!

if it was your valve cover leaking, you would not see oil on top of the cover.

Thats what I thought too. Still, why would oil be coming out of an air breather either? I guess there is a "baffle" in the breather that could deteriorate according the to tech manual. Maybe mine is deteriorated?

I'm gonna order the o-rings and gaskets tomorrow. Hopefully they come in on Tuesday then. Might as well do the valve cover o-ring too. And yeah, I'm happy to see thats an o-ring. I like how newer vehicles are going away from the gaskets. I've had to RTV the ones on my older Fords since they apparently don't make cork gaskets that don't leak.

EDIT: I think I'm gonna do the exhaust manifold gasket too. Wish me luck in the bolts coming out!

 

[RoyJackson]

You're doing a heck of a job, Arrabil!!!

Won't be long until you can tackle that backhoe modification/installation.

 

[Rob-D]

.

EDIT: I think I'm gonna do the exhaust manifold gasket too. Wish me luck in the bolts coming out!

I don't see that as a problem but just to make sure I anti-seize everything here from wheel bolts up on reassembly!

Rob

 

[arrabil]

Thanks Roy.

I installed the front-PTO the other day to see how it would affect the 8B backhoe. Doesn't look like there is anyway to use the 970 mounting method and have the mid-to-front PTO driveshaft installed at the same time. I don't think the subframe rails are far enough apart to get around the 4200 housing either. Which is the long way to say I think I'm going to be copying dfkrug's subframe a lot more closely than I had originally envisioned. Which is probably gonna work out in my favor financially as I have some semi-rare mounting parts for sale now.

I don't see that as a problem but just to make sure I anti-seize everything

I've had enough manifold bolts snap on me to last a lifetime. I approach it now like someone who flinches before they shoot. At least drilling these wouldn't require contortionist skills. I'm probably gonna buy stainless steel replacement bolts AND anti-sieze them.

 

[dcyrilc]

I've had enough manifold bolts snap on me to last a lifetime. I approach it now like someone who flinches before they shoot. At least drilling these wouldn't require contortionist skills. I'm probably gonna buy stainless steel replacement bolts AND anti-sieze them.

Will stainless handle the heat that manifold bolts see?

 

[dfkrug]

Thats what I thought too. Still, why would oil be coming out of an air breather either? I guess there is a "baffle" in the breather that could deteriorate according the to tech manual. Maybe mine is deteriorated?

Oil can come out of the breather onto your cover if the hose is cracked
and either/or:
> the separator/filter in the cover is not doing its job
> the rings are worn and causing excessive blow-by
> there is too much engine oil in the sump
> the drain-back holes in the head are clogged with sludge

Let's hope your rings are OK.

I had no problem removing my exhaust manifold studs and bolts. I
needed to remove them from the head to have the head hot tanked. You
don't need to remove the manifold at all for what you plan, but if you do,
the steel gasket is reusable. Just take the muffler off the manifold.

This photo is before I put the tank back in, but you can get a clear
view. If you cover the muffler hole like in the photo, you can wash
everything before you remove the valve cover.

 

[arrabil]

Will stainless handle the heat that manifold bolts see?

Never had a problem with it before. But if someone knows different I'm all ears.

Let's hope your rings are OK.

I'm gonna hope for a bad baffle but I suspect its the rings. Under heavy load some white smoke will come out of the exhaust. Like if I'm pushing on the hydro pedal up hill on my fairly steep driveway. Backing off the pedal and reducing speed and load eliminates the smoke. And yes, I understand how the hydro works, its just that I swear I don't think I'm bogging it or working it that hard. But it does. I crawl up the driveway (slowest possible speed achievable with the pedal) to prevent the smoke.

Thats pretty much a give-away of worn rings, no? I didn't know about the breather baffle though and if oil is coming through it, that would also explain the white smoke.

Either way, its why you see me looking for an engine in my sig. I'd rather rebuild one of the bigger ones and drop it in.

 

[dcyrilc]

Will stainless handle the heat that manifold bolts see?

Never had a problem with it before. But if someone knows different I'm all ears.

Nothing that I know of. I was just throwing out the question since I've never seen stainless used for ehaust manifold bolts.

 

[dcyrilc]

This photo is before I put the tank back in, but you can get a clear
view. If you cover the muffler hole like in the photo, you can wash
everything before you remove the valve cover.

Dave. That engine is way too clean to be working on to do a rebuild. How on earth are you supose to get grease all over everything if you clean it like that before starting the work?:laughing:

 

[jd3020u]

My 3720 with 128 hours has some "oil residue" around the breather pipe connection to the valve cover and no hose clamp. Hot oil vapors and dust will make a mess over time regardless of any other conditions present. I will be getting a clamp on mine shortly though

Oil can come out of the breather onto your cover if the hose is cracked
and either/or:
> the separator/filter in the cover is not doing its job
> the rings are worn and causing excessive blow-by
> there is too much engine oil in the sump
> the drain-back holes in the head are clogged with sludge

 

[arrabil]

I was just throwing out the question since I've never seen stainless used for ehaust manifold bolts.

Ah. I use them all the time when I have the manifold off already. They tend to rust-stuck a lot less.

"oil residue"

I got a lot more than residue though. Definitely have to call that a leak. I'm still hoping its the baffle or maybe no o-rings under the bolts or something similar.

 

[dfkrug]

That engine is way too clean to be working on to do a rebuild. How on earth are you supose to get grease all over everything if you clean it like that before starting the work?

As you likely know, that's the engine that I put together in my rebuild,
so I am approaching it here from the other direction.

Anyone needing to get in there for inspection or valve adjustment should
remove the muffler first, make a patch for the hole, then wash everything.
Pressure-wash or otherwise, it will help greatly in the inspection, and it
will help to keep the innards uncontaminated with dirt. It is easy to clean
if you do it BEFORE you open everything up.

 

[arrabil]

I made a new thread on the valve adjustment.