Front end loader control is stuck.

[jodebg]

Not sure what you mean by reseal the spool? thanks

 

[J_J]

Some spools have o-rings and others are a precision fit.

What is the manufacturer of your valve?

 

[jodebg]

JJ-

Just looked for a maker's name and the only thing I see is a number 3708 on it.

When you refer to spools, are you referring to the 2 black painted outer housings threaded into the
bottom of the valve, or the components on the inside of them?

One of the two black painted lower threaded housings has a number YW244 on it.

How do I remove the vinyl cover from the valve?

 

[J_J]

Spools are the shafts that the lever is connected to that move in and out.

They control the fluid movement.

The cans on the end cover centering springs, and float mechanism.

Usually two screws hold the can on.

This is a sample valve showing the location of the cans.

Item #4

Remove the parts over a container as there are little balls and spring inside. A magnet might help to contain things. If dirty, clean, and if rusty, replace.

What vinyl cover? Show picture.

 

[jodebg]

JJ-
At this link, page #6 has the diagram of what looks to be my control valve.

288484d1352686631 kubota 1630 loader attachment b7800 la402 1 loader parts pdf free ebook download

Also attached is a photo of my control lever showing the 2 lower cans.

The 2 cans appear to thread directly into the housing without attaching bolts.

 

[J_J]

The breakdown of your valve is on page 9 of the PDF

An illustration of what is in the cans is on page 9.

 

[jodebg]

Thanks.

What do you use for grease for those parts during reassembly?

Where do the holes get drilled, in the lower area of the cans (P&F), or in the end caps (T&J)?

Question....The frozen valve comes from water in the cans not allowing the parts inside the cans to function properly?

 

[J_J]

Yes, the water will freeze and jam things, and so will rust.

A water proof grease, enough to cover the parts.

Drill the hole at the lowest location.

 

[jejeosborne]

My B7800 does the same thing. Clean it out every couple years but now I am going to drill the hole as suggested. Last week I just used a heat gun to thaw it so I could bring in some wood with little time. I wonder why there isn't a weep hole from the factory.

 

[jodebg]

My B7800 does the same thing. Clean it out every couple years but now I am going to drill the hole as suggested. Last week I just used a heat gun to thaw it so I could bring in some wood with little time. I wonder why there isn't a weep hole from the factory.

I haven't done this before, new to tractors. Is it difficult to remove and reassemble to internal parts?

Also, do I need to do anything before removing the cans-disconnect hoses, bucket position, remove control valve from machine, etc.?

Do you remove and clean both cans?

 

[jejeosborne]

I haven't done this before, new to tractors. Is it difficult to remove and reassemble to internal parts?

Also, do I need to do anything before removing the cans-disconnect hoses, bucket position, remove control valve from machine, etc.?

The caps are basically dust caps with the exception of the float control as mentioned. Nothing complicated. No need to disconnect anything and valve position doesn't matter.

 

[J_J]

Just wiggle the lever to relieve any pressure.

 

[jejeosborne]

Just wiggle the lever to relieve any pressure.

Some may have different designs but mine have nothing to do with any pressure otherwise I wouldn't be able to drill holes in the caps.

 

[jodebg]

Some may have different designs but mine have nothing to do with any pressure otherwise I wouldn't be able to drill holes in the caps.

Are you going to remove the caps before drilling the weep holes?

Should ask you about the bucket lock lever on the top of the loader control. Mine is very difficult to move in and out of the lock position..is yours the same?

And is marine grease considered waterproof grease? It does not state waterproof on the container.

 

[J_J]

Some may have different designs but mine have nothing to do with any pressure otherwise I wouldn't be able to drill holes in the caps.

If someone has to remove the valve, it is a good idea to relieve any residual pressure.

If you can get to the can to drill at the lowest point, then you don't have to mess with relieving pressure.

I would not drill a hole not knowing what is inside.

 

[jodebg]

JJ-

Thanks for all of your very useful information...appreciate all of your time.

By relieving residual pressure, I assume you are referring to moving the control lever around in a circle?

 

[J_J]

Yes, that is correct.

 

[jejeosborne]

If someone has to remove the valve, it is a good idea to relieve any residual pressure.

If you can get to the can to drill at the lowest point, then you don't have to mess with relieving pressure.

I would not drill a hole not knowing what is inside.

I agree, if you have to remove the valve from the tractor. Fortunately this common problem can be corrected with the valve in place on many applications. I will definately remove my caps prior to drilling. I plan on marking the bottom of my caps prior to removal and thread them back on with the hole facing down. I will probably pack the cap with marine grease prior to assembly and let the extra grease squirt out my newly drilled hole.

 

[jodebg]

Good idea about marking the hole location before removal. Could all that grease block the flow of water through the cap when condensation reoccurs?

What do you use for a wrench to remove the caps...metric box wrench or ratchet and socket? I will need to buy one or the other, don't have one that size.

Question of about the bucket lock lever mounted on top of the control valve. Mine is hard to move from one position to the other. Is yours difficult to move as well?

I agree, if you have to remove the valve from the tractor. Fortunately this common problem can be corrected with the valve in place on many applications. I will definately remove my caps prior to drilling. I plan on marking the bottom of my caps prior to removal and thread them back on with the hole facing down. I will probably pack the cap with marine grease prior to assembly and let the extra grease squirt out my newly drilled hole.

 

[jejeosborne]

Good idea about marking the hole location before removal. Could all that grease block the flow of water through the cap when condensation reoccurs?

What do you use for a wrench to remove the caps...metric box wrench or ratchet and socket? I will need to buy one or the other, don't have one that size.

Question of about the bucket lock lever mounted on top of the control valve. Mine is hard to move from one position to the other. Is yours difficult to move as well?

I use a metric socket to remove the caps. Don't remember what size it was. As far as the lock, I have never used mine so I am not sure how hard it is to engage. It is just a round bar that interferes with the joystick. Take off the plastic shield and see if there is an alignment issue and lube it. Good idea to remove the guard and lube the linkages anyway once a year.