Front or Rear Blower for GC

[Paystar]

Can't decide, need opinions. I have a 300 foot driveway and a turn around for transports. Lots of room to blow. I like the idea of a front blower (nice to sit and look forward), but do you think it is nice to have the FEL on? Or use a rear blade (just to clean alongside house where you can't blow.) I know it's a matter of preference but what configuration do you think is handier? Also what is a good rear 3 pt blower for the GC series and how does it compare pricewise to the Massey front mount. Been quoted $3000.00 U.S. for the front blower by my closest dealer.
Like I said, I know it is all personal preference, but just want to see what you all think.

 

[irvingj]

I got the front blower for my GC --yes, it's expensive-- but never looked back. It works very well, I have no snowpiles to try to see around, and, occasionally, if I need the FEL, it's not that hard to remove the blower and put the FEL back on. (The blower's attachment sub-frame & driveshaft extension can stay in place while using the FEL, though they don't take much time to remove, either.)

My drive is about 200' long and uphill, and I also didn't want to face rearward. For really tight places alongside house and garage, I either shovel by hand --really doesn't take that long to kick it back 2-3 feet-- or use my ol' walk-behind blower. I haven't felt the need to use the FEL but once or twice a winter, the blower works so well. I also believe the blower's also a heck of a lot more efficient that the FEL at getting snow out of the way.

There are many who swear by the front blower/rear blade set-up, or the rear blower/front blade or FEL configuration, but I've been very happy with the front blower.

BTW-- $3000 for a M-F 2360 blower is very good; mine was $3900 (installed) when I bought the tractor a year ago.

 

[amkfken]

I am sold on the front mount blower for the GC2300 after watching the County open up the road in front of me that had been closed for 63 days last winter! They even had to dodge the abandoned Cats that were buried all that time!

I get a sore neck just backing my tractor up to put it away, no way was I going for a rear mount regardless of cost!!

My cost was $4400 for the blower,mount and electric chute rotator (I have a cab on the tractor), I put it together myself, goes thru 24" hardpack and fresh snow easily.

I have 3 gravel drives to keep open, maybe 800 or so ft total, uphill and around curves, thru trees, etc. and have opened other drives in my area.

This is all at 9800ft elevation and higher.

Have not seen the need for the FEL with this setup ( It is buried in snow anyway!).

Besides it is FUN!!

 

[WilliamBos]

Can't decide, need opinions. I have a 300 foot driveway and a turn around for transports. Lots of room to blow. I like the idea of a front blower (nice to sit and look forward), but do you think it is nice to have the FEL on? Or use a rear blade (just to clean alongside house where you can't blow.) I know it's a matter of preference but what configuration do you think is handier? Also what is a good rear 3 pt blower for the GC series and how does it compare pricewise to the Massey front mount. Been quoted $3000.00 U.S. for the front blower by my closest dealer.
Like I said, I know it is all personal preference, but just want to see what you all think.

Shawn,

We paid roughly $2,000 for our Farm King, but it listed around $2,500. Does that price include the tractor mount?? We were quoted $5,800 for a front mount blower with all necessary mounts. They are sweet, as they run off the mid-mount PTO. If I had the extra cash, I would have gotten a front mount blower. You can always mount a rear blade in it.

Keep us posted.

 

[PILOON]

For sure you want a hydrostatic drive with a front mount to adjust speed for snow depths and density.
Gear transmissions will always be too fast or too slow and low fwd is always faster then reverse.
For lighter snows a plow is faster than blowing as you can plow/gather the snow for a single blower pass which then suggests that a rear blower is the handiest and most cost effective.
A front blower being 'far up there' is not the best for close in work making a rear blower a more precise tool.
You can practically see the rear blower corner make (or avoid) contact with objects simply because of viewing angles.
You soon learn to sit sideways without 'a pain in the neck' when rear blowing.
Front blowers are more costly than rear. (2x-3x)
Be sure the blower is minimum 6" wider than tire track.

 

[Ductape]

I recommend the front blower 110%. Its a bit more money up front, but well worth it in my opinion. I put my blower on at the beginning of winter and never need my loader till spring. I think you *think* you'll need the loader more than you actually need it. I never need mine at all, and i'm on my second tractor with a front blower and have no interest in going back.

 

[daveinnh]

I don't have a snowblower, but was was looking at a rear-pull type like Eskine.

Skid Steer Snow Blower - Erskine Attachments, Inc.

 

[Paystar]

Thanks so far. Wow,all but one in favour of the front blower. That's kinda what I thought I wanted. I don't know how happy I'd be looking over my shoulder going backwards for over an hour. Just wasn't sure if I'd miss having the fel "right there" if I needed it. Irvingj answered another good point. I guess you don't need to remove the front quick attach frame to install the fel? Does it have to come off to install the grill guard? Another thing I never thought to ask the dealer....if you get the optional electric chute controls on the GC where do they mount the switches? I looked at a GC with the blower installed and I don't mind the chute crank but would like to have the deflector control, as my yard is real funny for wind direction (in front of Lake Superior) so you have to constantly re-aim and tilt down to avoid a face full of snow.
Will, as far as I know that is complete, salesman never said any different and I told him what I wanted. Only thing he specifically pointed out was the mower was cheaper at time of tractor purchase, versus later on, on it's own.

 

[amkfken]

You can mount the chute rotator switch anywhere you feel is handy,within limits of wire length of course, mine is right in the plastic dash, right side near the joystick.

Suggested mount for the switch is lower on the right side, a little more difficult area to get to, I thought, so put it in/on dash.

 

[irvingj]

Paystar (nice truck!)-- Mine came with the electric controls (dealer-mounted), and they mounted the switches on the dash.... The 2310's dash is a bit cluttered to begin with and that made it even more so; if you're getting a 2410 or a 2610, they've improved that a lot. If you did it yourself, you could probably put the switches wherever you wanted. (The switches are hard to see, but one's just to the left of the fuel gauge, and the other's to the right of the RPM/hour meter. They're good quality-- rubber-coated weatherproof double-throw momentary toggles.)

Don't know how the cranks work on these things, but on my walk-behind, vibration from the engine tends to allow the chute to wiggle on its own, so I frequently have to re-aim the thing. With the electric controls, the chute stays where it's put, a nice bonus.

Yes, the grille guard has to be removed to attach the front quick-hitch subframe (4 bolts, nuts & locks); again, on the newer models that's different, as they have a hinged grille guard-- but I suspect it still needs to come off.

The only other thing I do if I need the FEL is to remove the front stub-shaft coming out of the quick-hitch subframe; it's not "advertised" in the manuals as being possible, but there actually is a quick release for that, way back in. It prevents driving snow into the open end of the coupling. (Sorry for the sideways pic!)

WBB in NH (irvingj)

 

[WilliamBos]

Paystar (nice truck!)-- Mine came with the electric controls (dealer-mounted), and they mounted the switches on the dash.... The 2310's dash is a bit cluttered to begin with and that made it even more so; if you're getting a 2410 or a 2610, they've improved that a lot. If you did it yourself, you could probably put the switches wherever you wanted. (The switches are hard to see, but one's just to the left of the fuel gauge, and the other's to the right of the RPM/hour meter. They're good quality-- rubber-coated weatherproof double-throw momentary toggles.)

Don't know how the cranks work on these things, but on my walk-behind, vibration from the engine tends to allow the chute to wiggle on its own, so I frequently have to re-aim the thing. With the electric controls, the chute stays where it's put, a nice bonus.

Yes, the grille guard has to be removed to attach the front quick-hitch subframe (4 bolts, nuts & locks); again, on the newer models that's different, as they have a hinged grille guard-- but I suspect it still needs to come off.

The only other thing I do if I need the FEL is to remove the front stub-shaft coming out of the quick-hitch subframe; it's not "advertised" in the manuals as being possible, but there actually is a quick release for that, way back in. It prevents driving snow into the open end of the coupling. (Sorry for the sideways pic!)

WBB in NH (irvingj)

Are those aftermarket gauges on your 2300?? We are looking to put a water temp guage on our 1523. What gauge did you use? What part numbers for the pieces?? Our engine is the same as yours.

 

[jaybrad]

Front vs. rear snow blowers....wow, it's like deja vu all over again.

Looks like I'm one of the odd ones, which is OK with me (I also have the only red tractor in what is an otherwise very orange neighborhood).

I have, and *really* like, my rear mounted 54" Pronovost Puma. I haven't found it the least bit uncomfortable to sit side saddle on the seat to blow snow in reverse, and have used the FEL a lot at the end of the driveway and other areas around the yard.

The biggest challenge for me is that I have to remember when I'm turning that there is still a bucket that swings around in front and could to a pretty good job on the siding, or a car. But so far, no such problems.

I had a rear blower on a JD for about 10 years with a much longer driveway, and never found that to be a problem, which is why when I got my 2310, I was very comfortable going with the same setup again.

...and the difference in cost can be reinvested in other implements....like a wood chipper, a sawzall...oh, the endless possibilities....

I'm sure you will like whichever you decide - either way it actually makes snow removal fun!

Jay

 

[Paystar]

Another point I missed Irvingj....I've had numerous walk behinds, and garden tractors with blowers, and your right, the chute always rotates on it's own. So I guess the big tractors are no different? I just thought I would save the $600.00 they quoted me for the electric rotator, and just get something to tilt the chute up and down, without having to get off the machine. But now I think I will get both. (thanks for the compliment on my truck).
Will, doesn't the 1523 have a temp gage?

 

[WilliamBos]

Another point I missed Irvingj....I've had numerous walk behinds, and garden tractors with blowers, and your right, the chute always rotates on it's own. So I guess the big tractors are no different? I just thought I would save the $600.00 they quoted me for the electric rotator, and just get something to tilt the chute up and down, without having to get off the machine. But now I think I will get both. (thanks for the compliment on my truck).
Will, doesn't the 1523 have a temp gage?

No, it does not have a temp guage. We want to add one, and since his engine is the same as ours, it will make it easier with his parts list.

So is the GC2300 the tractor you are going with??

 

[Paystar]

No, still planning on GC2610tlb. We have a local Bobcat dealer that is pretty big, lots of sales, but I priced the smallest chassis (CT122). For the tractor, BH, FEL, MM mower, and a rear blower it worked out to $35,559.00. Would have been good because they are local, but that is too rich for me. Plus I really don't need anything that big. I don't know how they compare, but on paper the GC has more pto horsepower, and more hydraulic flow. Of course the Bobcat has higher lift capacities due to it's larger size. But like it's been said before, I don't want to oversize, or else it will take away from it's mowing abilities. I will be back to still using my lawn tractor for the tight spots. Both GC's I priced, one in Canada and one in the States both came in $6000.00 cheaper than the Bobcat. I can do lots with 6 grand in my pocket.
I still don't know when I'll do it. I wanted it for summer but may have to put it off again. Trucking, (along with every other job around here) has gone for a crap. The good thing though is if it don't happen till next fall, I'll get all the good 0% deals again

 

[irvingj]

William-- no, those are the gauges it came with, except for the temp. They do look a bit hokey, don't they? That's my --so far-- biggest annoyance with the 2310; glad they improved that on the newer models.

If you go to this thread, you can get the details: "2400 temp gauge" by DEWFPO, started 5/16/08. (Sorry, I'm not sure how to post a link.)

I don't know about the 1500 tractors, but the 2300s have a 2" hole already there in the center of the dash, it's just covered up by the stick-on plastic layer on top, so any 2" gauge would work, I suppose. Mine now has a rather permanent fog on the inside of the glass-- if I had it to do over (which I may anyway!), I'd probably look at a marine gauge-- something that can take being exposed to the elements. It still works and is readable, but....

Paystar- As I said, I'm not sure how the crank models work on the front-mount blowers-- perhaps they hold their positions better than my walk-behind... anyone care to comment on that? The electric option is expensive, however, and there are numerous threads about how people have "electrified" their chute controls very inexpensively using window or wiper motors from cars. I agree $600 is kinda hard to understand, but that's the way mine came, so....

 

[jaybrad]

Irvingj - how long ago did you take those pictures? I just noticed that you had < 25 hours on the meter? You gotta get out more.

Mine has been pretty quiet lately since we haven't had any new snow in a couple weeks. I did go out and open up the end of my driveway a lot more last weekend. Those who just don't understand might think that it was completely unnecessary, but I submit that getting a couple hours of seat time is great therapy any time of year - and I only got it stuck a couple of times.

Jay

 

[LBrown59]

I got the front blower for my GC --yes, it's expensive-- but never looked back. .

Guess not with a front blower.==
------------

 

[irvingj]

I figured, LBrown, you'd catch that!... (Sorry, I just couldn't resist!)

Jaybrad-- yes, that was a while ago, last May, I think. Tractor now has almost 80 hrs.... Removed the blower & installed the bucket Saturday for some serious icy snow-pile hunting on neighbors' driveways.... had a blast. Chilly & windy, but brilliant sunshine in a cloudless, bright blue sky. Nice!

Guess I'll fiddle around in my own driveway today- doesn't really need it, but I like the practice!

On an aside, my little parking spot has worked out quite well; I'm thinking it may become more permanent....

 

[jaybrad]

Tractor now has almost 80 hrs....

And I see you added a cool redneck suicide knob, too. You guys in the south crack me up.

Looks like our next opportunity to use the snow blower is coming at the end of the week.

Jay