Front Wheel Seal Replacement 3320

CorporateOffRoader · Oct 17, 2013

I had the dreaded wheel seal leaking issue last weekend, after reading up on the fix here on the forum, I tackled it myself. Success, in fact, much easier than I anticipated. I utilized my 20 ton Harbor Freight shop press and once I figured out what to use support the hub, it all worked out.

The new seal is significantly difference in appearance than the original, looks more substantial (LVA 16814).

Here are some pictures for those that may be wondering if they can do it themselves.

As a side note, word has gotten around here at work, and it seems that I may have 1 or 2 more of these to do now :laughing:

MikeyB · Apr 17, 2014

I am about to tackle this myself on my 3320. Did you just replace the seal on your stub axle output shaft? Also, which bearing(s) were pressfit requiring the press?

Thanks for any help,
Mike

Marbleman · Mar 12, 2016

I'm on my way to Harbor Freight to buy the 20 ton press today. Seal is ordered. Mine is the 3203, Looks just like your pics. Thanks for posting.

beenthere · Mar 12, 2016

:welcome: to TBN
Hope you will post some pics of the process. May have to do that someday on my 4300. Suspect about the same - hopefully.

Marbleman · Mar 13, 2016

beenthere said:
:welcome: to TBN
Hope you will post some pics of the process. May have to do that someday on my 4300. Suspect about the same - hopefully.

CorporateOffRoader was right. This is not hard at all.

I picked up the 20 ton press yesterday, Harbor Freight had a parking lot sale, I picked it up for $157.00. I bet I put it to use many more times in my lifetime restoring tractors. My tractor is the 3203 compact utility tractor with front end loader. I bought it about ten or eleven years ago so I could drag logs out of the woods to feed an outdoor wood boiler. Since then we sold that home in Maryland and moved to Tennessee. I started bushogging and restoring gravel driveways, and any thing else I could do on that small tractor. I work it real hard, too hard sometimes. But it had held up well. I was losing about half a quart of hydraulic oil a day about three years ago. I was talking to a John Deere mechanic and he told me the factory uses hydraulic oil in these front axles. So I started putting 90 weight gear oil in the front and the leak tapered off to a mere slight drip occasionally. Three years later and all the sudden I started losing a quart a day again. So its time to change the seal.

I used this thread on this forum as my template - Replacing Front Seals in John Deere MFWD Tractors With Two-Piece Seals

The 3203 is almost identical. Only difference is mine uses a one piece seal, and it doesn't match the original at all. When I had it apart the old seal looked like it was in perfect condition. Here are the pics you wanted:
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The first pic shows the piece just after it let go under the press. I used a Craftsman socket between the press and the piece. The press shaft was a little too large. After I completed the replacement of the seal I used a larger socket to press around the shaft to put it all back. When I got close to where I wanted to stop, I put the snap ring back in place then pressed down on the snap ring until it popped in place. It made a clear loud snap sound when it seated. Cleaned up everything, used a good sealant around the lip and slipped it right back in place. I put 85W-130 in the chamber. These gears can run with thick oil. And as hard as I push it, I prefer the high viscosity.

Marbleman · Mar 13, 2016

Correction, 85W-140 gear oil. Drove it around the property up and down the hills and not a drop.

Marbleman · Mar 13, 2016

MikeyB said:
I am about to tackle this myself on my 3320. Did you just replace the seal on your stub axle output shaft? Also, which bearing(s) were pressfit requiring the press?

Thanks for any help,
Mike

The entire gear and bearing set comes out as a unit. Set it up in the press and it all comes apart. Follow that other thread I posted about, its like a recipe, well written. Your 3320 will be just like my 3203. You take of the snap ring, press the stub axle right out of the middle of everything. It slides slowly for an inch then it drops right out. All the bearings are relatively easy to work with, the new seal will not match the old one. I pushed the seal out from the inside and installed the new one from the outside with the seal spring on the inside. Then I took that housing and pushed it carefully down onto the stub axle and paid particular attention to the new seal. There is a metal inner piece on the seal that I tapped on as it went into place. Then I dropped the bearing in and wiggled it into place, then the gear and the inner bearing. I put that all on the press and down it went. I would stop and let the press up and check my progress so I didn't push it on too far. Once I was real close, I put the snap ring back on and it was just shy of making it into it's slot, so I pressed on that and as soon as I put the pressure down it snapped into place. The press will cost you less than the shop labor would. It was a very satisfying day.