Frontier GM I-Match Conversion Kit

beenthere · Apr 13, 2005

The mower should run on the ground, with the I-match not holding it up, as it is held up by the ground wheels.

I'd adjust it so it will ride loose on the ground, but when the 3pt is raised, it will lift the mower equally on all corners (level front to back and left to right).

The I-match can't fall off if the two latch's are closed on the two lower lift points.

From the pics, I don't see there is any problem. But I may be missing something that you are seeing, and trying to describe.

Bowhunter · Apr 13, 2005

In the last two pics I can see how "off" it appears to be. I'm sure it's not the case, but to be that far off my first guess would be that a bolt is in the wrong hole. Had to really say without having the whole mower sitting in front of me.

trlong · Apr 13, 2005

Everything is adjusted so that it rides on the wheels, just pulled by the I-Match and lifts level to transport (all that adjustment in the 3ph arms and toplink).

It's the skew of the top connection point (top of the swing arm, rear support, and front support arms) that bothers me. Last pic shows it best. I should probably have taken a close up of that. It may be that I just have to loosen the bolts at the back of the rear support arms and tap the arms until they are more level/even at that top point but, they were nice and even when I started and I didn't move them. I'll try that tomorrow, anyway.

The rest of the connection points, those that have to float were tightened to where they were tight, in the order from the "Instructions", and then backed off enough to let parts float. I guess I'd have been more comfortable with how much to back off on the nuts for the floating components if the instructions had said something like "snug up (such and such nut) then back of X turns". All it said was that the float yokes have to "float" (surprise). Not too hard to figure that the "swing arm" also has to swing. Some torque spec's would have been handy for the fixed bolts.

When I get it all adjusted and the grass grows a bit, I'll let folks know how well it works.

Thanks,

Tom

trlong · Apr 13, 2005

Bowhunter,

It is possible there's a wrong bolt but, I don't think wrong hole. I did have two "extra" bolts (no nuts for them) in the kit (better than 2 short). They were both 20x60's (I think). They were not listed in the parts list, nor needed or fit anywhere. I'll also check that I didn't put anything in the wrong directions, throwing something off.

trlong · Apr 14, 2005

Well, this a.m. I did check that all bolts are in correct holes, correct orientation, size, and tight. Then I loosened them all just a bit and reefed on the rear arms to remove the skew. No luck. So, I just made sure the lift pin assembly floats vertically, evenly, as I retightened the bolts. I guess it probably will work fine unless it wears on that very top bolt. I'll keep an eye on it, and a few extra bolts and nuts, when I get a chance to mow. If it becomes a problem, I'll find the exact cause and post the solution.

Good news is all the ice has finally melted out of my drainage ditch, snow is gone, and grass is just beginning to grow.

Tom

trlong · Apr 23, 2005

Well, I actually attached the pto driveshaft to see how everything ran, after cleaning the GM, sharpening blades, etc...

I'm not sure I am at all impressed with this kit now! The shaft has to extend so far that the shaft shield is open, exposing about 2" of bare, spinning shaft at the center. I have to have a long discussion with my dealer and J.D. service/support. There was no mention that I would have to purchase a longer shaft or new, longer shields.

If anyone has had any experience with one of these conversion kits, please let me know if you have had any similar problems.

Thanks, Tom.

trlong · Apr 27, 2005

( Well, I actually attached the pto driveshaft ...The shaft has to extend so far that the shaft shield is open, exposing about 2" of bare, spinning shaft at the center.... There was no mention that I would have to purchase a longer shaft or new, longer shields.
)

Now I feel a little foolish but, still blame JD and Frontier for poor instructions and lack of warning, re: Needing to replace the driveline on GM1048's and GM1060's if installing the I-Match Conversion Kit.

Just before I took the "driveline" (to use the correct term) to the dealer to fix/replace/repair... I took one last look at the install manual for the conversion kit. I had missed the last line, on the last page ("...GM1048 and GM1060 require replacent driveline [when installing the kit]..."). Nice place for them to put critical information!

I took the driveline to the dealer to see if they would give me something for it toward a replacement driveline (Frontier p/n BP948-816B), the one that would be standard on the GM1072. Also, showed them where Frontier buried the information on needing the replacement. They immediately agreed that the information was inadequate, took my old driveline and handed me the correct driveline. I offered but, they would not accept any money for the trade, even though mine had the shield split (mentioned above) and front chain loop broken.

Just another example of why I pay a little more to work with my local JD dealer, rather than try to save a few $$'s some where else.

beenthere · Apr 27, 2005

Probably this is one reason why dealers are doing more of the set-up themselves, and charging for it. At least, hopefully their techs. will notice the 'mistake' before the customer finds it out by trying to do it themselves. I have a hard time deciphering what the 'GM' stands for, but am assuming it is referring to the finish mower and the GM is the stock number.

Not sure if I caught what was 'out of whack' with the lift brackets that you pictured early in the post. Did this get resolved or the problem discovered and corrected?

I've been guilty of skipping over critical 'passages' in manuals and sometimes think these things are written in invisible ink, then suddenly appear after I have finished my attempt to do it without the manual. Only look there as a last resort. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

trlong · Apr 27, 2005

beenthere,

The GM = "Grooming Mower". 3-bladed 5' rear discharge. Local dealer handles the 48", 60", and 72" (hence GM1048, GM1060, GM1072).

I have not figured out how to straighten the slight tilt of the connection point between the front and rear lift arms (very top connection point). I don't think it's a big deal. Time will tell.

As for the new driveline today...I removed the BH and FEL, re-installed the I-Match, made a few tweaks to the 3ph lower arms and toplink. Mower lifts and drops pretty smoth and even now but, the new driveline is STILL 1/2" too short. 1/2" of shaft still left unshielded. Oh well. I'll have to call them and have them get a full length shaft. This one came off another GM1060 they "thought" they had not cut down yet. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

I should have listened to you in the 1st place, not bothered with the "conversion kit" and just thrown a chain from the swing arm to the top of the I-Match!

trlong · May 12, 2005

Beenthere,

Just to wrap up...I did get a bit of the slight tilt out of the upper arm connecting point. Also, the dealer finally got me the full length driveline. I checked all hardware, hooked up the driveline (nice that there is no over extension anymore), picked the mower up, easily with the I-Match, and mowed about 7 acres Tues. evening. All worked great, tracked well and cut beautifully. Those floating lower yokes and anti-scalping roller help a lot with the uneven area I was cutting. I did stop and check the mechanicals a few times, just in case. All seem to be working just fine.

As for the driveline, the dealer called J.D. parts and was admonished that they were ordering the wrong driveline for my GM1060. Parts person said "But, that's for the GM1072..." Apparently know one had read the last line in the install manual, calling for the longer driveline when installing the I-Match Conversion Kit for the mower. Now, at least a few people know about it /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif