Tires Frozen tire liquid weight

[mojoinco]

Well, had a funny thing happen to me. It's our coldest time of the year (I hope -- not always only a 2 or 3 week deal), and we needed to uncover some driveway and pads (parking areas) so it will (eventually) melt clear.

So my wife finally gets some seat time in Blueford. Says she is worried about the way the rear end is bouncing up and down as she drives it. I tell her it is just cold heavy tires with flat spots.

Then I drive it a couple days later. And realize that as I drive along it goes 'thump-thump-BUMP-thump....". It isn't going 'thump-thump-thunk-thump...' like I had thought.

Then I notice how the tire is definitely going flat. So I get a guy to come over and he pops the bead and pulls out 2 or 3 10-20# blocks of ice and a bunch of 'snow cone' ice from the tire. I will be parking it in the shop for a couple of days until he comes back. Seems that the tractor came from North Carolina, and both tires seem to have a very light mix of anti-freeze.

Which meant another trip (after the inner tube trip) for some calcium-chloride. $82 for a tube, $161 for the calcium chloride. Expecting $100 before the second tire.

Glad there is no snow before the next effort.

 

[Soundguy]

I think I would have just upped the AF mix.. though for sure a new tube and cacl won't freeze.

soundguy

 

[glc24]

That darn calcium chloride is just so doggone hard on equipment. Opting for RV anti-freeze might have been a better deal.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!


Greg

 

[RickB]

That darn calcium chloride is just so doggone hard on equipment. Opting for RV anti-freeze might have been a better deal.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!


Greg

CaCl is no problem when it is kept inside the tube where it belongs. If leaking tubes and valves are repaired/replaced rather than neglected, the wheel equipment will last indefinitly. Those too cheap or inattentive to maintain CaCl filled tires properly will pay the price sooner or later. That's the cold, hard reality.

 

[tawilson]

That darn calcium chloride is just so doggone hard on equipment. Opting for RV anti-freeze might have been a better deal.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!


Greg

RV antifreeze does freeze solid. It just doesn't expand to break the pipes. If you read the label it says "burst protection". I see in bottles I have left outside when it gets down in the single digits.

 

[Soundguy]

Are you aware of the volume change that water undergoes when it forms a crystal lattice? Ever wonder why ice floats? it's a density issue.. ice is less dense than water at a given unit mass.. which means it is also a larger volume.

soundguy

 

[mojoinco]

Well, managed to also break the left tube as well. Hoping to get both tire done tomorrow. It is supposed to get up to almost 40. It's inside, so it should melt some more by early afternoon. Might park it outside, valve down, to let it leak out.

So -- what is the proper method to maintain the tube/tire for CaCl? It looks to me like the tube has a two piece valve stem. Presumably either the adapter /reducer has O-rings that are replaceable? Or is it one of those things you just throw it out and replace the insert?

I did some research on the various tire fluids, and the best fluid (at least by weight, freeze point, AND environmental consideration) is 'beet juice'. But it has limited distribution, though there is a dealer in Denver (logistically not going to happen right now), and reportedly a Montana dealer down the road is one (I have talked to the owner before about interest in tractors and trailers -- you leave with the need to wash your hands because he is so full of 'stuff'); I wouldn't trust there work (seen there shop as well).

Anyhow, here is a nice chart of fluids: Comparing Types of Liquid Tire Ballast | OrangeTractorTalks

 

[Soundguy]

Beet juice ( rimguard) will be the most expensive.

you can get by fine with ww fluid, water and antifreeze.. or cheapest as cacl.. jus tmake sure you have leak free tubes and valve stems.. and if you fo get a leak.. repalc ethe tubes, and wash the rim out... keeping them painted inside and out helps as well.

soundguy

 

[glc24]

CaCl is no problem when it is kept inside the tube where it belongs. If leaking tubes and valves are repaired/replaced rather than neglected, the wheel equipment will last indefinitly. Those too cheap or inattentive to maintain CaCl filled tires properly will pay the price sooner or later. That's the cold, hard reality.

Problem is,it doesn't always stay where it belongs. Even if you are quick to remedy a problem,its still a nasty chemical to deal with. I know a little about that stuff,I worked with it on the really big equipment for 10 years. If there is an alternative,I would use it.

Greg

 

[Soundguy]

So when it leaks.. you flush...

soundguy

 

[stuartshomepc]

Beet juice ( rimguard) will be the most expensive.

you can get by fine with ww fluid, water and antifreeze.. or cheapest as cacl.. jus tmake sure you have leak free tubes and valve stems.. and if you fo get a leak.. repalc ethe tubes, and wash the rim out... keeping them painted inside and out helps as well.

soundguy

I'm not sure if I would use Windshield Washer (WW) fluid. The blue colored stuff is typically water and Methanol (ie: methyl Alcohol). Methanol is hard on rubber unless it's formulated to handle it. I don't think that I would risk my tires with it. The green colored stuff is typically ammonia and water.

Pink RV Antifreeze (propylene Glycol) is the "friendliest" fluid. It's actually used in very small amounts cough syrup as a sweetener.

 

[KenPauling]

I have had the same problems with liquid in my tires in the past and finally decided it was enough! I bought wheel weights for my tractor. At first I thought they were expensive, but if you figure in the ruined valve stems, rusted out wheels and the mess and expense of filling the tires with ANY of that junk, wheel weights are a bargain! I actually sold the calcium in my old tires to a dealer and I received more money than I imagined! If you can find used weights to fit or even make them out of scrap iron or concrete, its actually cheap. Its worked for me and I don't miss the mess.

 

[radman1]

We have tractors with calcium chloride in the tires that are over 40 years old. With tubes, it is not as "evil" as many people make it. Haven't yet replaced a rim because of of the calcium chloride. The tires will be replaced multiple times before the rim. When tires are replaced, they will suck out the old fluid, put on new tires and tubes, then pump the calcium chloride back in. It does give the most weight/gallon if you want ballast.

I will add, most farmers today use cast iron weights rather than calcium chloride. Most ag tractors are not ballasted as heavy as in the past. Many tires give better traction with larger foot print (radials) and most large and midsized tractors now have MFWD and thus less ballasting. Farmers are also more concerned about compaction than in the past and want less weight.

 

[Soundguy]

I'm not sure if I would use Windshield Washer (WW) fluid. The blue colored stuff is typically water and Methanol (ie: methyl Alcohol). Methanol is hard on rubber unless it's formulated to handle it. I don't think that I would risk my tires with it. The green colored stuff is typically ammonia and water.

Pink RV Antifreeze (propylene Glycol) is the "friendliest" fluid. It's actually used in very small amounts cough syrup as a sweetener.

Literally thousans of tractors run around with WW fluid in them.. havn't heard of any catastrophic breakdowns yet... really.. see for yourself.. google some tractor sites and ww fluid.. or other spellings... it -really- is common.

soundguy

 

[mojoinco]

Well, after a couple or three upper 30 to 40 degree days, the left tire gave up its blocks of ice. Like its sister 'the right tire' there were 3 or 4 blocks of ice shaped like 30# bags of concrete that got wet. And commodious amounts of 'snow cone' ice. Amazing. Don't know how I didn't have any issues last year. Maybe whatever (suspect it was a tiny amount of anti-freeze) was in the tire isn't enough wasn't enough for this year. Oh, the ice blocks from the right tire don't look as if they have melted any. Can't be much anti-freeze in them.

Anyhow, all CaCl'ed up. Ought to be good to go, and close to as much weight. The water level had been in the ~70-80 % range (top edge of the inner rim), now 1/2 full (recommended by the tire guy as being enough with MFWD). We will see when I move the next big bales of hay or dirt. Didn't need any 3 pt weighting when moving the ~1100# bales last summer.

2 tubes, 6 bags of CaCl, 2 service fees for tube change out: ~$525. At least I know what I have now. Could have been worse -- the tires didn't burst.

 

[Soundguy]

I think I'd still run the lever near 80%.

soundguy

 

[tawilson]

I think I'd still run the level near 80%.

soundguy

Top of the rim is how I thought it was supposed to be. That must be around 80%.
And I'm glad your tires are ok. I pictured sharp chunks of ice slashing at them.

 

[RickB]

I think I'd still run the lever near 80%.

soundguy

The only benefit to a 50% fill is having the tractor rock like a hobby horse when you stop quickly. It's a PITA.

 

[Soundguy]

I bet it would. Can't say I've ever ridden on any half full ones.. must be a reason for that!

soundguy

 

[California]

I'm running plain water at 50% level in oversize rear tires. I've never noticed any inertia effect at all.