Fuel stabalizer

[tibadoe]

I use SeaFoam. No issues to date. For E10 or Conventional.

 

[Sberry]

I quit using it, cant tell any difference.

 

[arto98607]

Im tired of having problems with small engine carbs and I plan to do something about it.

In my area finding ethanol free gas isnt easy and from what I have read dosent necessarily solve the problem.

I know that running the fuel tank empty at the end of the season isnt the answer either because Ive seen first hand the powdery white residue left behind after things dry out.

What do you guys do to not have any problems?

Im looking into a fuel additive called Sta-Bil. I know little about any of these additives.

Like others have said "Gold Eagle Sta-bil 360 Marine Formula Ethanol Treatment" seems to work good and I have been using it since it became available.

Just out of habit, I still run the carburetor empty on small engines (like the old 6 hp Tecumseh on a Troy Bilt Horse) that have a fuel petcock.

 

[big bubba]

although seasonal fuel drain off to a dry tank has long been a tradition, i no longer use the method. while back had to replace a fuel shut off solenoid on my Kawi after a dry run...attribute that to gumming the needle when dry
as with the consensus, i only use ethanol free premium w/stabil. that works best for me
know the dry out method works for some & will continue to use it on my genset, but not my other small engines.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Want reasonable results, anything that will sit for 4+ months and takes gas use 97 or higher octane only and keep the fuel tank full. This will stop the oxidative and condensation from forming in your tank. If it will sit longer than 6 months, use a stabilizer.

If your equipment cant handle 97+, use farm fuel/marked if you can get it, add the stabilizer for anything you will not use in less than a month. If the equipment is going to sit longer than a month you have two options: drain both the carb and fuel tank (fog metal fuel tanks), or run the carb dry and fully fill the fuel tank with stabilized fuel.

The reason for farm/marked, aside it being allowed for small engines and offroad/marine without a farm license (though some stations are sticky about that), the E level is lower than it is in the comparable "grade" of pump gas.

2 stroke carbs should always be run dry and drained if you can help it, the oil helps but some 2 stroke oils still get gummy when they settle out of the fuel.

I have one stupid techumseh that the carb comes off when I stop using it since nothing seems to help it and it is finicky even when it works.

 

[IndyJay]

Been using StaBil in my gas powered equipment for about 30 yrs and have had zero carb problems. Even my little push mower that sits a year or two between uses fires right up with one or two pulls of the starter rope with StaBil in it. I also use their marine formula in my boat and their diesel formula in my tractor and have zero issues. It’s good stuff, just be mindful of where you store your equipment and fuel; if you leave either out in the elements and water collects in it you’ll still have problems. But barring water and dirt intrusion StaBil will keep your carbs clean and your fuel fresh.

That includes 2cycle pre-mix, even though most claim to have stabilizers, they do not work like StaBil. Learned the hard way. Now I use it in everything that is not going to be ran out in a few weeks.

 

[Bearsixty7]

Amsoil Quickshot is what I have used since it was developed years ago. Never had a fuel issue so far.
And I agree, more and more professionals say to NOT drain the fuel, it causes more problems. Properly treated 87 or preferably 89 octane fuel with no more than 10% ethanol is just fine.

I also use Amsoil 2 stoke oil for premix since it came to market and none of my 2 strokes (chainsaws or string trimmers) have had any fuel issues and the chainsaws often sit for many months at a time.

I have tried E0 91 octane but like others said, it's not close (15-20 miles away) and cost almost double that of 87/89 E-10.

 

[ArlyA]

Saeafoam works and its a proven product, plus you can get it at Northern Tool for $7. Over the weekend we picked up 10 cans and use it in all our occasional use gas engines. No fluff, it works.

 

[1930]

I have some tools I might pick up to use for a few hours one day and then not touch it again for several years, Im guessing running it dry is really the only option other than hoping for the best.

 

[5030]

Want reasonable results, anything that will sit for 4+ months and takes gas use 97 or higher octane only and keep the fuel tank full. This will stop the oxidative and condensation from forming in your tank. If it will sit longer than 6 months, use a stabilizer.

If your equipment cant handle 97+, use farm fuel/marked if you can get it, add the stabilizer for anything you will not use in less than a month. If the equipment is going to sit longer than a month you have two options: drain both the carb and fuel tank (fog metal fuel tanks), or run the carb dry and fully fill the fuel tank with stabilized fuel.

The reason for farm/marked, aside it being allowed for small engines and offroad/marine without a farm license (though some stations are sticky about that), the E level is lower than it is in the comparable "grade" of pump gas.

2 stroke carbs should always be run dry and drained if you can help it, the oil helps but some 2 stroke oils still get gummy when they settle out of the fuel.

I have one stupid techumseh that the carb comes off when I stop using it since nothing seems to help it and it is finicky even when it works.

One reason why I have a heated ultrasonic cleaner with Berryman's B12 Chem tool in it. 175 degree Berrymans in the vibrator will clean any gunked up carby.