Full figured 25hp Tractors

[tacticalturnip]

How do you like the R-14 or whatever tires? I've always used ag tires on tractors, and industrial on construction equipment.

Now keeping in mind I have little experience with ags, the R14 tires are far and above industrials in snow and mud, and are easier on grass. Though not as easy as turf tires, but I suppose that's a given.

 

[tacticalturnip]

You're definitely in the fun stage of shopping, so enjoy it, try out everything you can think to.

 

[2manyrocks]

I paid about $22,000 for a L2501 HST 4x4 r1 tires with loader a year ago using the equine discount. The equine discount has been reduced since then and it was my understanding at the time that Kubota was about to raise prices, too. Can't say what prices are today.

The 4x4 makes a decided improvement in traction compared to my 2wd tractors. My advice is buy 4x4.

HST is great for varying ground speed to ground conditions and loader work. I understand it eats some power when it comes to running a mower, but I've never used it to mow so I can't offer any personal experience about that. If you don't mind going a little slower if you have thick vegetation, I would suppose its workable.

With the 4x4 and low range, I can drag some pretty decent sized trees, but I have to watch what I pickup with the loader when it comes to tree trunks. I mostly use low and medium range. The high range is only good for the highway in my personal opinion.

If you plan on moving a bunch of heavy trees with the loader, you may want a bigger tractor. I suggest looking at this weight estimator and comparing it against the loader lift capacity of the tractors you are considering. Green Log Weight Charts & Calculator | Sherrilltree

I'm a little surprised at the prices you posted. This dealer has their TYM prices on their website: All Inventory | Tri-County Equipment Parts & Equipment They show a t264 (25hp hydro) with loader for $16,900. A T474 48hp shuttle shift model with loader is $27,500.

 

[jeff9366]

How do you like the R-14 tires?

 

[jeff9366]

Current L285 'should' weigh around 2230 lbs; plus water filled rears. Seems like it runs out of traction before it runs out of power with 6 ft box blade pushing; and runs out of front weight before it will stop pulling.

If pulling a Box Blade to distribute dirt is important to you the dinky wheels/tires on a Subcompact tractor will be a major performance disappointment.

• Larger wheels and tires provide more tractive power pulling ground contact implements and logs, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires permit heavier tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris yielding higher operating speed with less implement bounce and operator perturbation.
• The dinky tires on Subcompact tractors effect the geometry of the Three Point Hitch. Even though some Subcompact tractors specify they have a Category I Three Point Hitch, that does NOT mean implements from tractors with larger diameter wheels and tires will connect. Subcompact tractors often require implements sized specifically for the Subcompact tractor category.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

 

[jeff9366]

What makes/models are in that bigger/heavier/more capabable than a sub compact, and still in the cheap, small range? I assume the 25hp emissions stuff is the reason for a significant price jump right at that border line.

Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Every tractor brand includes Compact tractor models weighing from 2,700 to 2,900 pounds bare weight with a less than 26 horsepower engine.


I assume the 25hp emissions stuff is the reason for a significant price jump right at that border line.

Yes.


Stricter Tier IV off-road diesel engine emission reduction standards phased in dealer tractor inventory during 2009 - 2012, impacting tractor prices.

Tier IV emission standards require tractor manufacturers to add or revise pollution reduction technology on new tractors generating over 19 kW power = 25.4794 horsepower.

DPF is used by the majority of tractor manufactures for emissions control on OVER 25.4794 horsepower tractors.

Tier IV technology complicates the engine and exhaust package and is a significant cost factor. However, the pollutants emitted by a Tier IV technology tractor are about 1% of the pollutants emitted by a non Tier IV tractor.

Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) captures exhaust particulates (soot) in a ceramic matrix. When tractor engine runs sufficiently hot, accumulated particulates burn off periodically without operator intervention. If engine is not run continuously hot long enough to burn off particulates, diesel soot accumulates in the matrix. Once heavy soot accumulates in DPF the tractor forces soot clearance with the tractor parked and throttle open to about 2,200 rpm for about sixteen minutes, which makes the DPF REALLY HOT to burn off all accumulated soot. Burning off accumulated soot, either during operation or parked is called REGENERATION.

If there is no DPF there is an alternative incendiary technology to burn off very fine particulates (soot). Sometimes exhaust heat is elevated all the time, sometimes periodically.
Diesel particulates must be burned. THERE IS NO FREE LUNCH.

 

[Jchonline]

That probably includes "Insurance". KATAC was almost $200/month for my M4, no freaking way.

KTAC is $275 a year for my $21k RTV. I can't imagine it being that much for a SCUT but maybe!

 

[Jchonline]

OP Branson as a Brand is going away. They were purchased by TYM a few years ago and now the Brand is phasing out. Right now they are still making the previous models under the TYM name, but with TYM also having very similar models I doubt they will continue making them both in the coming years. Something to think about. Personally I would just buy a TYM made/branded machine.

I would also recommend the same for RK. RK isn't a tractor servicing company. Yes they might have a mechanic at one of the sites...but they aren't going to be as good as a true tractor dealer/service location such as Kioti, Deere, TYM, etc. Personally I would stay away from them and just get a TYM.

 

[gstrom99]

How do you like the R-14 or whatever tires? I've always used ag tires on tractors, and industrial on construction equipment.

I put Mickey Thompson Baja Truck tires on my JD, when it was time to replace the turf tires. R14 wasn't out yet. I like them a bunch. Go with the R14's.

 

[Vigo327]

Unfortunate if not extremely common with old Kubota L-whatevers.. if it was the 4wd version you'd probably just keep going!

I looked at the l2501 to l2502 improvements.. moved brakes to the left side, ok that's an actual upgrade. Rest of the list: LEDs bruh, rubber floor mats, arm rests.. seems to me there is not much difference on the tractor itself. Apparently there is a new loader with it, didn't look into that.

But in general the concept of hooking a bigger tractor to the same size engine is a good idea if you intend to push/pull against things or lift heavy objects. If you are just dragging a bush hog around and that's it, then the ride quality and ground clearance would be your only real benefits.

But i expect a tractor to be the vehicle equivalent of a leatherman so i'd want the weight (AND 4WD non-negotiable) even if i didn't plan to need it right away.