Full-size electric wood splitter
- Thread starter EdK
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Taylortractornut
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Im about to convert my grandfathers old home builts splitter to 10 hp 3 phase. I have the 3 phase in the shop and plan on cutting alot or wood this winter for sale. My neighbor said i could have all the hardwood tops left over from his logging. Tat way i can run it insdie my shop when im not welding or running the lathe. A 3 horse 3 phase motor has the same torque as a 5.5 horse gas motor. I plan on mounting one of my homebuilt electric winches and an electric curcular saw to cut off the wood to lengths im gonna sell a few loads to pay for it.
RonL
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Ed
I am doing precisely what you are asking. 5 HP electric motor will draw about 24 amps at 240 volts so it will have to run off of at least a 30 amp cicuit( 30 x 80% = 24 amps). The motor I am using is a 3450 RPM Baldor with a flange face. The industrial supply houses will have standard brackets that fit the face of the motor and the face of the hydraulic pump. Standard couplings are used to connect the motor and pump. I'm using an 11 GPM two stage Barnes pump. When the pump kicks down to the higher pressure level it puts out about four and a half HP of hydraulic power by my calculations. The 13.6 GPM pump might work with a 5HP motor but the 16 GPM pump will definitely overload a 5HP motor by my calculations.
My wood splitter is set up as a stationary unit but there is no reason why an electric wood splitter could not be portable.
My reasons for an electric wood splitter are much the same as yours. I'll do all of my splitting in one spot next to the wood shed. I do not want to maintain another gas engine. I like the idea of thowing a switch, splitting wood, and then shutting the switch. Splitting wood is not something that I would do on an emergency basis. If power is out I won't be splitting wood.
If you need catalog numbers for the motor and other items let me know.
RonL
I am doing precisely what you are asking. 5 HP electric motor will draw about 24 amps at 240 volts so it will have to run off of at least a 30 amp cicuit( 30 x 80% = 24 amps). The motor I am using is a 3450 RPM Baldor with a flange face. The industrial supply houses will have standard brackets that fit the face of the motor and the face of the hydraulic pump. Standard couplings are used to connect the motor and pump. I'm using an 11 GPM two stage Barnes pump. When the pump kicks down to the higher pressure level it puts out about four and a half HP of hydraulic power by my calculations. The 13.6 GPM pump might work with a 5HP motor but the 16 GPM pump will definitely overload a 5HP motor by my calculations.
My wood splitter is set up as a stationary unit but there is no reason why an electric wood splitter could not be portable.
My reasons for an electric wood splitter are much the same as yours. I'll do all of my splitting in one spot next to the wood shed. I do not want to maintain another gas engine. I like the idea of thowing a switch, splitting wood, and then shutting the switch. Splitting wood is not something that I would do on an emergency basis. If power is out I won't be splitting wood.
If you need catalog numbers for the motor and other items let me know.
RonL
beenthere
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Markct
Yes, you are right, and I found that out shortly after posting. So a 5hp elec should be close to the 8hp gas.
Yes, you are right, and I found that out shortly after posting. So a 5hp elec should be close to the 8hp gas.
rockinmywaypa
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I think you are on to a great idea, Why not put together a self contained hydraulic powerpack and buy a new/used woodsplitter? Then you build a press for removing bearings and then an ironworker and a pipe bender etc. all can operate off the same source of hydraulic power by exchanging disconnects.
RichNJKubota
Gold Member
Homepower magazine (www.homepower.com) did an article on electric powered splitters I think in 1999.
They took a 5HP gas version and put a 2HP 240VAC C-face motor on it. The C-Face has mounting holes in it. The motor/pump adaptor came from Grainger. That's all I remember.
Rich
They took a 5HP gas version and put a 2HP 240VAC C-face motor on it. The C-Face has mounting holes in it. The motor/pump adaptor came from Grainger. That's all I remember.
Rich
OP
EdK
Silver Member
Are you kidding? I'm not sure. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
If so, I won't take your sarcasm as a hit - I asked for it!
I'll readily admit that most all log splitter posts wind up acknowledging the fact that most cannot cost effectively build a log splitter vs. buying a commercial unit unless you've already got some of the materials in your lap and/or your time is worth zip.
Therefore I'll adjust my stance to add I should really be looking out for a splitter in need of a motor that I can convert to an electric motor to less than or equal the cost of a new gas engine.
Thanks for keeping me in line!
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( and then an ironworker )</font>
Hmmm... if I get my own personal ironworker then I won't need this "Build It Yourself" forum anymore! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
If so, I won't take your sarcasm as a hit - I asked for it!
I'll readily admit that most all log splitter posts wind up acknowledging the fact that most cannot cost effectively build a log splitter vs. buying a commercial unit unless you've already got some of the materials in your lap and/or your time is worth zip.
Therefore I'll adjust my stance to add I should really be looking out for a splitter in need of a motor that I can convert to an electric motor to less than or equal the cost of a new gas engine.
Thanks for keeping me in line!
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( and then an ironworker )</font>
Hmmm... if I get my own personal ironworker then I won't need this "Build It Yourself" forum anymore! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
OP
EdK
Silver Member
Ron,
I find it remarkable that a fellow TBNer is not only doing the same thing but right down the road nonetheless!
It seems you've really got the design nailed down. Is it actually complete and working?
Please excuse my seat of the pants guesstimates however it does look as if I was roughly in the ballpark enough for the purpose of the discussion. On the one hand one would argue you can't get enough power in such a device but then motors become harder to find, more expensive and ultimately 3-phase should be a consideration. On the other hand keeping the project more modest translates into lower cost, more practical to implement and perhaps even the flexibility to loan it to a friend who could plug it into a 30A dryer outlet!
If yours is complete, how well does it work? I'd be curious as to what size cylinder you've selected and what the cycle time is like.
Thanks, Ed
I find it remarkable that a fellow TBNer is not only doing the same thing but right down the road nonetheless!
It seems you've really got the design nailed down. Is it actually complete and working?
Please excuse my seat of the pants guesstimates however it does look as if I was roughly in the ballpark enough for the purpose of the discussion. On the one hand one would argue you can't get enough power in such a device but then motors become harder to find, more expensive and ultimately 3-phase should be a consideration. On the other hand keeping the project more modest translates into lower cost, more practical to implement and perhaps even the flexibility to loan it to a friend who could plug it into a 30A dryer outlet!
If yours is complete, how well does it work? I'd be curious as to what size cylinder you've selected and what the cycle time is like.
Thanks, Ed
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hmmm... if I get my own personal ironworker then I won't need this "Build It Yourself" forum anymore! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )</font>
Sure you do. All that'll happen is he'll be on the forum and charging you by the hour to do it.
Sure you do. All that'll happen is he'll be on the forum and charging you by the hour to do it.
RonL
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Ed
I haven't completed the splitter yet. I got the motor, pump, and bracket first to make sure everything was compatible. As others have said Grainger has the brackets that fit C-face motors. The motor and pump are bolted to opposite faces of the bracket and are connected with Lovejoy couplings. I sized the pump by using the formula: PSI X GPM/ 1714 = HP. This is the theoreticl HP needed to run the pump. The pump is 85% efficient. The two stage pumps are set from the factory to run up to 650 PSI at first stage. The 11GPM pump kicks down to 2.9 GPM at the second stage at a rated 2500 PSI. This is at 3600 RPM. They are listed at 3000 PSI max. The 11 at 650 and 2.9 at 2500 figures calculate out to 4.2 HP. At 85% efficiency the max pressures are right at the rated 5 HP. I'm not sure about the dynamics of splitting wood with hydraulics and how long the pump is at max pressure. Since an electric motor can put out more than its rated horsepower for short periods of time you might be able to get away with a larger pump. I wanted to play it safe. My original intent was to hardwire the unit to a wall mounted starter switch. If you wanted a portable unit you could mount the switch to the unit itself and have it connected to a 30 amp dryer plug.
RonL
I haven't completed the splitter yet. I got the motor, pump, and bracket first to make sure everything was compatible. As others have said Grainger has the brackets that fit C-face motors. The motor and pump are bolted to opposite faces of the bracket and are connected with Lovejoy couplings. I sized the pump by using the formula: PSI X GPM/ 1714 = HP. This is the theoreticl HP needed to run the pump. The pump is 85% efficient. The two stage pumps are set from the factory to run up to 650 PSI at first stage. The 11GPM pump kicks down to 2.9 GPM at the second stage at a rated 2500 PSI. This is at 3600 RPM. They are listed at 3000 PSI max. The 11 at 650 and 2.9 at 2500 figures calculate out to 4.2 HP. At 85% efficiency the max pressures are right at the rated 5 HP. I'm not sure about the dynamics of splitting wood with hydraulics and how long the pump is at max pressure. Since an electric motor can put out more than its rated horsepower for short periods of time you might be able to get away with a larger pump. I wanted to play it safe. My original intent was to hardwire the unit to a wall mounted starter switch. If you wanted a portable unit you could mount the switch to the unit itself and have it connected to a 30 amp dryer plug.
RonL
