Gambrel Barn. 32x48

[o2batsea]

A barn is a box to store stuff in. Make it as big as you can afford to. Make the interior as large as possible. Cluttering up the usable space with columns is not a good idea, as you will no doubt discover if you go that way.
If you really have to have a gambrel, a steel truss will be your only choice I fear.

 

[wedge40]

Went and got a couple of quotes Friday.
Two designs.

First - Basic Pole barn, no floor just under roof.
32'x48'x12 with 8' shed along one side.
6x6 poles 8' o.c.
2x4 side nailers 2' o.c.
2x4 roof purlins 2' o.c.
Trusses 4' o.c. 4/12 pitch
Double 2x12 truss plates.
2 entrance doors
2 12x10 overhead doors.
total with tax and labor to build is $19.5K Pretty close to what I figured.

Second Pole barn with Gambrel roof.
Everything is same as above but the trusses are gambrel attic trusses.
They have 16' of open area. I have a different idea about the truss that I've emailed to the builder to see what they say. Oh and the first floor is clear span. The second floor is designed for living, 40 psf. Total for this was ~$25K. Way less then I figured.

I would like to get started in July time frame, maybe sooner.
I plan on taking a few days off when they build the barn, so I should be able to post lots of photos.

Wedge

 

[firefighter jim]

I've seen plenty of old barns about to cave in and fall over to

That's a good one! Seen alot of those in my area also!

 

[BungeeII]

Gambrel truss with 16' "attic" space rated for living over an unsupported 32' span?
Am I reading that right?

 

[cowsrus]

Your quote sounds high. What part of the country are you in? I've had quotes for several thousand dollars less for similar sized buildings.

 

[wedge40]

Your quote sounds high. What part of the country are you in? I've had quotes for several thousand dollars less for similar sized buildings.

I think it reasonable since I dont have to lift a finger. They will supply everything and build it. I just need to prep the ground.
I live in Central Indiana.

Gambrel truss with 16' "attic" space rated for living over an unsupported 32' span?
Am I reading that right?

They manufacture and engineer trusses at this place as well. I have the engineering sheet from them, I can post a pdf later in the week if you would like to see it.
It would look like the third down on the left with some more bracing.
http://www.eminkay.com/index_files/page0002.htm

Wedge

 

[Mark_in_IN]

I live in Central indiana and had a amish builders build mine 2 years ago
heres the link to the thread
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/125475-another-pole-barn.html
they did an excellent job and were quite a bit less than others.

Mark

 

[NIdaho]

I wish I had some pictures of my shop on my PC here at work!

Several years ago I built a 30x30 foot "shop" with a Gambrel roof. The shop has 10' high walls and then uses roof trusses that have a "2nd story room" inside of them. It is a 30' clear span (no beams or posts in the bottom level). The upstairs room has a full 8' high ceiling and is 17' wide and a full 30 long. The bottom cords are 2x12 lumber and top cords are 2x6s. The trusses are on 24" centers, on top of 2x6 walls. So it isn't a pole building -- I originally thought about going that way but after investigating and finding out that I would have to have glue-lams down both side walls to set the trusses on, decided to go with stick framed walls.

The trusses are just under 14' high from the bottom of the bottom cord to the peak. the top roof pitch is 5/12 and the steep lower sides are 13/12. I used 3/4" T&G subfloor that is glued and nailed with ring shanks. It is definitely not a bouncy floor! In fact I would venture to say that it is more solid than most homes being put up today. These trusses met our county snow loads of 50 lb/sq ft even though I put 5/8" sheeting over them and then ribbed metal roofing. Our last 2 winters have been record setters with over 5 feet of snow on the ground (unlike this year as the ground is bare).

 

[wedge40]

I wish I had some pictures of my shop on my PC here at work!

Several years ago I built a 30x30 foot "shop" with a Gambrel roof. The shop has 10' high walls and then uses roof trusses that have a "2nd story room" inside of them. It is a 30' clear span (no beams or posts in the bottom level). The upstairs room has a full 8' high ceiling and is 17' wide and a full 30 long. The bottom cords are 2x12 lumber and top cords are 2x6s. The trusses are on 24" centers, on top of 2x6 walls. So it isn't a pole building -- I originally thought about going that way but after investigating and finding out that I would have to have glue-lams down both side walls to set the trusses on, decided to go with stick framed walls.

The trusses are just under 14' high from the bottom of the bottom cord to the peak. the top roof pitch is 5/12 and the steep lower sides are 13/12. I used 3/4" T&G subfloor that is glued and nailed with ring shanks. It is definitely not a bouncy floor! In fact I would venture to say that it is more solid than most homes being put up today. These trusses met our county snow loads of 50 lb/sq ft even though I put 5/8" sheeting over them and then ribbed metal roofing. Our last 2 winters have been record setters with over 5 feet of snow on the ground (unlike this year as the ground is bare).

I will post the truss design they gave me today. They changed the height to 15' 4", so I now have 20'x48'x8'2" up top and 32'x48'x12' clear span on the bottom

Wedge

 

[wedge40]

Here is the truss design they came up with.

Wedge