Garage Floor material

   / Garage Floor material #21  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was thinking about just using gravel, but I worried about losing things. )</font>

I have dirt floors and run into this all the time. Gravel would be even worse. I would do the pumped concrete.
 
   / Garage Floor material
  • Thread Starter
#22  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( This concrete power buggy has a hydro transmission, stand on design, foam filled tires, dual front tires, power dump, 16 cubic foot bucket (thats a bit over 1/2 yard of concrete per trip) It can be rented at most major tool rentals. )</font>

Well, that seems to be the consensus around here. They call it a Georgia
buggy. They seem to prefer it to pumps because the pumps cost about
$550, whereas the buggy is $75 a day.
 
   / Garage Floor material #23  
I would think the pump would do it much quicker though. Especially if you have to pay extra to have the driver stand by to dump several yards.
 
   / Garage Floor material #24  
We used a pump truck to place the concrete into the forms on my new house. Pumped 48 Cu Yards and it cost me about $900. They charge by the hour, plus for each yard of concrete pumped. The unit we used had a reach of about 50 yards. The attachment shows the unit in action.

And the right sized unit can probably pump right over the house! No need to drive on the grass.
 

Attachments

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   / Garage Floor material #25  
<font color="blue"> Well, that seems to be the consensus around here. They call it a Georgia
buggy. They seem to prefer it to pumps because the pumps cost about
$550, whereas the buggy is $75 a day.
</font>

Well OK I admit it, once I saw that concrete buggy I volunteered to run it for my concrete guy. That put him and his helper in the mud and me running the machine back and forth between the patio pour and the truck. Never ran one of these machines before his 5 minutes worth of instructions that he gave me. I put all the concrete where the finisher motioned me to dump it, it was extremely easy to use, inexpensive to rent, and easy to clean up. We simply hosed the dump cart off with a garden hose. And oh the best part is I had a blast operating it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I just love machinery......
 
   / Garage Floor material #26  
Well, see, I miss my fire fighting days... Helping the guy with the pump is the closest I have come to luggin 2-1/2" fire hose on a fire scene.

So, I guess we're about even, gettin to work some equipment /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Pumps out here are by the hour. The stuff I have been involved with did not last too long, so they were all in the $250-300 range. They move mud very quickly, and are realtively easy on the forms.
 
   / Garage Floor material #27  
Interesting foundation. I am guessing that it is an insulated form that is being used? How do you like it? I wanted to use it 20 years ago, but it wasn't approved in CT at the time. I don't know what the present status is in this area, but I haven't ever seen it used around here. Just on TV and in magazines. Seems like quite a labor savor and heat also.. What can you tell us about it?
 
   / Garage Floor material #28  
> and the spring goes boing, how would I ever
find it on a gravel floor? Or even a lost nut.


A magnet. $10 at the farm supply. But then, I tear down & rebuild my combine in the dark outside so I can get combining again by 11:00am after a morning parts run & reassembly, so I'm used to a little difficulty. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

If you want inexpensive, there is nothing wrong with gravel or just dirt floor. If you are looking to heat it or want it fancy, then never mind my comments. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul
 
   / Garage Floor material #29  
They pump/spray concrete in for swimming pool construction, often into inaccessible rear yards. Mine in NJ wasn't directly accessible by a concrete truck just dumping it in. It ran in via a long chute from the right side of the house, as I recall (that was about 35 years ago). The contractor dug a new "driveway" for the concrete truck across the neighbor's lawn (that caused quite a stir for a bit, but that new grass area ended up his best grass).

Built a carriage house here with a basement out of concrete. The main floor above the basement is poured concrete, too. I keep my tractor on the main floor but have run it into the basement through the double doors down there, too. Luckily, I could put the carriage house right at the end of the turnaround area for the garage attached to the house. They dug the basement with a tiny caterpillar and backfilled with a tracked Bobcat. While he was there backfilling, I had him dig away part of my slope around the right rear of the swimming pool to construct a wall there to keep from having to run cross slope on my tractor all the time.

Ralph
 
   / Garage Floor material #30  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

Why not use some sort of concrete pavers? If you go to Home Depot or other home center you'll see plenty of choices. )</font>
This might cost 2 or 3 times what a cement floor cost.
 
   / Garage Floor material #31  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
Hi,
I'm going to build a garage behind my house which will
house my lawn tractor, a small CUT of some type and a
bench. Just a one car size, maybe 12X20. Anyway,
I can't get anything wider than 5 feet back to that area,
so if I used concrete it would take a lot of wheelborrow
trips (Perhaps 40 or so?) from the truck which would be
a hundred feet away.

What I'm wondering is, would it be nutz to use a very
strong wood floor instead of concrete? I'm thinking I can
set it on a 6" gravel base and let it float with the frost.
It would be cheaper and easier all around. Also lower
tax increase because concrete makes it a permenante
addition to the property and the tax goes up accordingly.

What would the drawbacks be for a wooden floor if I plan
to use it for a tractor? For the sake of argument assume
a JD4110 with FEL and BH. I have a feeling using wood
is just a bad idea, but I'm not exactly sure why.

Thanks,
Cliff

)</font>

============
Have you read the dirty cement thread?
 
   / Garage Floor material #32  
I'm a BIG fan of concrete.

If your concerned about getting the matterial back there the rest of the folks have pretty much covered the bases on delivery of the product.

HOWEVER

I would not write off the wood floor. If you do it the right way the first time you should be OK.

I would have a real nice compacted gravel base, cover it with plastic, and use good support (min 6x6's) on 16" (min) apart. Cover them with 2 sheets of 3/4" marine grade plywood (placed in opposite directions to each other), and I'd park any CUT on top of it.

I like to over engineer things I'd use 8x8's, and put them on 12" centers, along with the 2 sheets of plywood.

Do Not Use any OSB type product for your floor.

Good Luck..................J
 
   / Garage Floor material #33  
Cliff; A word of caution... don't finish the concrete too smooth. I did this and in the winter it gets like a skating rink. Now I am looking to cover it up with a rubber mat of some type, at least in the work area. The unheated section wouldn't make much difference. On a hot day an outside pour sets quickly so I was more concerned with getting it flat and smooth. Is this living with your mistakes or learning by mistakes ? I guess worse things could have happened. Good luck!
 
   / Garage Floor material
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Since the original post in this thread in March, I've built the garage (pictures are in the photo thread here and here_to ) and put down concrete. I guess I'm glad I did. Dollys don't roll very well on gravel, and having a flat hard floor is useful for many things. Next summer, I will probably build the double plywood floor discussed here under a small timber frame shed that will take my lawn tractor(much less weight) and some garden tools. This will make room for projet work in the concrete floored garage.

Thanks everyone for the discussion it was a good one.

Cliff
 
   / Garage Floor material #35  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Cliff; A word of caution... don't finish the concrete too smooth. I did this and in the winter it gets like a skating rink. )</font>
Joe, you may consider etching your concrete floor with muriatic acid or some of the newer replacements for it. You can make the floor a little more "sandpapery" and it won't be so slick. Check out this article on etching with one of those products. John
Etching concrete </font><font color="blue" class="small">( )</font>
 
   / Garage Floor material #36  
Just thought I'd add this to give another perspective. I built a 16'x24' steel shed to house, among other things, the B7500. It has a gravel floor. I wanted to make just a section (6'x13') smooth to park the FEL when not in use. Having spent a 3 day weekend last year laying a block paver front entranceway, that seemed a viable option. So I visited Home Depot & Lowes. For unknown reasons, the 8"x16" pavers were less than half the price per square foot of their larger counterparts. The result was a smooth section for less than $75 and about four hours time. I used my hand tamper for this job but using a power tamper like on my entranceway produces a solid surface that would rival concrete. Just thought you might want an quick, inexpensive option. I have a paved garage for my cars but couldn't justify it to park the FEL.
 
   / Garage Floor material #37  
The barn on my wifes familys place is over 100 yeas old and they store farm equipment in it. So a wood floor can last quite some time. When I was a kid my Grand father had a garage workshop with a wood floor and he parked his car in it. I like wood better it is softer, warmer and dryer. I know there are small sawmills around here that make oak flooring for barns. It is more than likely that concrete is cheaper but it works better if you do it right (vapor barriers and insulation etc).

Chris
 
   / Garage Floor material #38  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( Cliff; A word of caution... don't finish the concrete too smooth. I did this and in the winter it gets like a skating rink. )</font>
Joe, you may consider etching your concrete floor with muriatic acid or some of the newer replacements for it. You can make the floor a little more "sandpapery" and it won't be so slick. Check out this article on etching with one of those products. John

<font color="red"> I prefer the cement floor being as smooth as possible.
Makes oil spills much easier to clean up.
</font> Etching concrete </font><font color="blueclass=small">( )</font> )</font>
 
   / Garage Floor material #39  
My brother bought a house about 8 years ago.

When the house was originally built in the late 1950s they built the 2 car detached garage with a wood floor in it.

The floor has floor joist and is built the same way you build the floor for a house.
 

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