Garage floor

   / Garage floor #51  
I enjoy reading about all these pretty and fancy garage floors.
Then I think about most of the ones I've worked on or around,
shoveling mud off of them, oil and grease drips all over, weld splatter,
or cutting slag and then hammering something out with it laying on the floor.
Tire chains and studded tires maybe even cat tracks across it.
Solvents, oil, grease, dirt, dust and mud.
 
   / Garage floor #52  
You didn't insulate under the slab?
You funny. :p

2" R10 foamular250. Not cheap! But I like to think I would have insulated the slab anyway even if not doing radiant, if the building is to be heated. We did 4" for R20 under the slab in our house, even without any PEX/radiant in it. Holds temperature crazy stable, it's awesome.

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   / Garage floor #53  
And while I have my old pics located, here is the slab after two coats of TIAH sealer. I was really pleased with how the slab turned out, not perfect, but for $3200 poured, pretty rad. Sad that I can never expect those prices again!

If anyone follows the Diesel Creek channel on youtube, that dude just had a gorgeous pad poured, nicely documented in multiple videos, of course.

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   / Garage floor #54  
I never thought about putting it inside a building, but that is a clever idea.

My cut joints are 7.5 ft. apart and about 90% of them are still filled with the dust from the saw blade.
Sounds like you have a new fun project to tackle! Lol.

Prior to foam backing-rod and sika-flex, I used a combo of compressed air and shop vac to clean out the joints.
 
   / Garage floor #55  
You funny. :p

2" R10 foamular250. Not cheap! But I like to think I would have insulated the slab anyway even if not doing radiant, if the building is to be heated. We did 4" for R20 under the slab in our house, even without any PEX/radiant in it. Holds temperature crazy stable, it's awesome.

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Your young one, looks so intent on the job at hand; that is so great!

Thanks for sharing the details and photos.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Garage floor #56  
I would like a new floor for my one car garage. but,,,i worry about using jack hammers and the foundation of the house(an over 100year old house with block foundation). Are there issues doing this?
 
   / Garage floor
  • Thread Starter
#57  
It was straightforward to order my coating - it is a warehouse floor coating, and it landed at my door a few days after I placed the order. I simply went to the rental house, got a set of diamond bits, and rented a gas floor grinder. Cut the floor down with that, already had a respirator, and applied the coating over one very long day. It is a 3-coat urethane system (primer, color coat, clear coat) with an anti-skid additive and a flake. that had all kinds of "ratings" and is perfect after several years. It is overkill for a house garage, but I often drag some heavy steel items around and didn't want a floor that would get all scuffed/torn up.

A friend did his floor at the same time (figure we could both used the bits, etc.), and it is also perfect. It may not be the "Stonehard clad" you are specifically speaking of, but there are other commercial coatings that are also excellent products. Stonehard is simply a brand-name epoxy and urethane floor protection system. I also noticed some Stonehard listed on eBay currently if you really want to buy it and not have a "pro" install it.

If I recall correctly, I had about $1000 in doing my garage floor; the "pros" wanted $6,000. I agree they have some tips and tricks that are helpful, but for 5K I figured I could do my own research and figure it out. Honestly, it is some work, not really a fun job by any stretch, but also not exactly rocket science, just mainly a little research and labor.

Both Epoxy and Urethane coating can be great for a garage type of floor - neither is bad, and neither is perfect. Both are a slight compromise, but if you stick with the industrial/commercial coatings, you will do fine. The stuff at the big box stores is really what you need to avoid; it is made for a price point and a quick install. Also, without the proper prep, it doesn't matter what you put down; it won't last.

Floor coating rating info if you are interested.

(Abrasion Resistance Method: ASTM D4060, CS 17 wheel, 1000 cycles, 1 KG Load Result: 18 mg Loss Adhesion: Cross Cut Method: ASTM 3359 Result: Passes 5 Adhesion: Elcometer 106 Method: D4541 Result: Exceeds 500 PSI Dry Heat Resistance Method: ASTM D2485 Result: 400ºF Flexibility: Conical Bend Mandrel, 180º Bend Method: ASTM D522 Result: Passes 1/4” Impact Resistance Method: ASTM D2794 Result: Direct – 160 in. lb. Pencil Hardness Method: ASTM D3363 Result: 4H Salt Fog Resistance Method: ASTM B117 Result: Passes 1200 hrs Accelerated Weathering Method: ASTM D-4587, QUV Result: Passed: 1500 hours, Abrasion results are greatly improved with the addition of our anti-skid. Abrasion Resistance Method: ASTM D4060, CS 17 wheel, 1000 cycles polished concrete Atlanta, 1 kg load Result: 23 mg Loss Bond Strength Method: ACI 403 Result: 325 PSI (Concrete Fails) Dry Heat Resistance Method: ASTM D2485 Result: 350ºF Flexibility: Conical Bend Mandrel Method: ASTM D 522, 180º Bend Result: Passes 1/8” Impact Resistance Method: ASTM D 2794 Result: Direct – 160 in. lb. Result: Reverse – 160 in. lb. Pencil Hardness Method: ASTM D3363 Result: H Sward Hardness Method: D2134 Result: 44aa)
thank you so much for your suggestion
 
   / Garage floor #58  
You are welcome - good luck with your project.
 
   / Garage floor #59  
I would like a new floor for my one car garage. but,,,i worry about using jack hammers and the foundation of the house(an over 100year old house with block foundation). Are there issues doing this?
Maybe just cut the slab out? You've got big tractors.... just cut through the slab (maybe leave the perimeter if under walls, etc) and drag out huge chunks with your tractor(s), then pour new. An alternative could be to pour a skimcoat / thinset over all of it (if adding a little height doesn't ruin your functionality) and then protect it with a robust epoxy coating.
 

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