Garage Heat
- Thread starter kiphorn
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PineRidge
Super Member
Murph can't make it out from the picture, is that Wirsbo? I like it but you need anti-freeze to keep the system from freezing if your not heating all the time. And recovery is lousy for an area such as a pole barn where doors are opening and closing all the time. But for a home, now that's another story, it's premo there. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Junkman
Super Member
Is that white circle on the back wall an opening for the chimney for the wood stove???? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
thcri
Elite Member
For the life of me I don't know what the back circle is. Attached is another picture that doesn't show it. I wonder if it is light shining on the wall from something else.
Pine as far as slow, yes it is slow at getting there but it does hold for a long time. I can turn it off when it is 60 inside and 10 below outside and even with taking cars out and in and opening doors the temperature will not drop more than 3 degrees per day due to the heat built up in the cement. As far as a leaky space. You have that problem even with any heat. In the fall or the first time I turn the heat on it takes about 3 hours before I start to feel heat coming out of the concrete. To raise from say 55 to 60 it takes about two hours. At 50 degrees you can lay on the concrete floor working in a T shirt as the temp of the concrete is pretty warm. It can be 100 at times and that is why it is so nice. You have that warm air rising over you. But I usually just leave mine on all winter. It doesn't really cost that much to run. I also have ice melt on the front sidewalk for melting snow and ice. And yes you should have anti-freeze in it. If you keep it running I know some of my competitors don't put the anit-freeze in it. But alls it takes is a pump to go bad and then you could get into trouble. But you would have a couple days to fix it because of the heat in the concrete.
murph
Pine as far as slow, yes it is slow at getting there but it does hold for a long time. I can turn it off when it is 60 inside and 10 below outside and even with taking cars out and in and opening doors the temperature will not drop more than 3 degrees per day due to the heat built up in the cement. As far as a leaky space. You have that problem even with any heat. In the fall or the first time I turn the heat on it takes about 3 hours before I start to feel heat coming out of the concrete. To raise from say 55 to 60 it takes about two hours. At 50 degrees you can lay on the concrete floor working in a T shirt as the temp of the concrete is pretty warm. It can be 100 at times and that is why it is so nice. You have that warm air rising over you. But I usually just leave mine on all winter. It doesn't really cost that much to run. I also have ice melt on the front sidewalk for melting snow and ice. And yes you should have anti-freeze in it. If you keep it running I know some of my competitors don't put the anit-freeze in it. But alls it takes is a pump to go bad and then you could get into trouble. But you would have a couple days to fix it because of the heat in the concrete.
murph
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thcri
Elite Member
We also have the Wirsbo systems in a automobile repair shop next to our office. He has two large doors big enough for semi's that are both opening 6 times a day and even times when they stay open for twenty minutes or so. Close the doors and as long as you have everything warmed up already the air temp does recover fast.
murph
murph
PineRidge
Super Member
Murph I agree with you if you heat your pole barn all winter long then Wirsbo is indeed the best solution. Most guys I know including myself only put the heat on however when we go out to the shed to work. Right now here in Ohio it's 21F but I know that if I flip the stat to heat it will be nice to work in 15 minutes. And once I'm done I shut the stat back off. My pole barn is insulated to the max but I don't see any sense in heating my building if I'm not out in it.
Sounds to me like you enjoy your system though. Having that heat radiate from the concrete floor sounds like a great way to keep warm. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
How big is your barn and what size water boiler did you install to handle the heat loss?
Sounds to me like you enjoy your system though. Having that heat radiate from the concrete floor sounds like a great way to keep warm. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
How big is your barn and what size water boiler did you install to handle the heat loss?
JJT
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2001
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- Upstate NY, USA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3710 HST and a Kubota ZD21 60Pro
Kip, If you have heat in the breezeway, is there any way to run a duct or 2 into the garage? I have a 1000 sw ft attached garage that stays above freezing with only 2 6" heat ducts. If I'm working in the garage, I'll run the 110K btu Kerosene fueled salamander. It will bring temps up 40 degrees in 15 minutes. If I'm going to run it for long I'll open a window a few inches. I have a CO monitor in the garage and I've only set it off once in 8 years. JJT
thcri
Elite Member
Pine,
My boiler is 125,000 Btu's. It heats the lower level of my ramber = 2500 square feet, garage = 1,100 square feet, two bathrooms = 300 square feet, ice melt - 200 square feet open to ambient and does my domestic hot water 80 gallons. So you see that boiler goes along ways.
murph
My boiler is 125,000 Btu's. It heats the lower level of my ramber = 2500 square feet, garage = 1,100 square feet, two bathrooms = 300 square feet, ice melt - 200 square feet open to ambient and does my domestic hot water 80 gallons. So you see that boiler goes along ways.
murph
PineRidge
Super Member
JJT, I also used a kerosene fueled salamander when I was finishing out the pole barn. I might have considered keeping it as a heating option if it wasn't for the noise that it produced. It was like trying to work next to a jet engine. Now maybe someone makes one quieter that I not aware of these days as mine was 3 or 4 years old.
PineRidge
Super Member
Murph do you know of any problems with running warm air supplies or return air from the forced air furnace that heats the main house to a garage area that may have gasoline or other flammables stored there?
