GARAGE PROJECT

   / GARAGE PROJECT #11  
The major problem with a monolithic slab is that the contractors use metal mesh then walk on it as they pour and it ends up on the bottom rather than in the middle of the concrete. When I built my current shop building, I specified #3 rebar 12" o.c. supported on chairs so that it could not get walked down. The bid was a little higher but worth it.
 
   / GARAGE PROJECT #12  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ..........Couldn't you avoid the problem of rotting sill plates by just pouring\forming a higher and/or a thicker slab? )</font>

You would still be close to the ground unless the slab was say 12" thick and that wouldn't be economical. Some people will use concrete blocks on the outer edge to get the hight needed to keep the moisture from the wall, but the blocks themselves aren't well anchored to the slab usually. Just mortar keeping them in place. I like to see at least 12" above the surrounding ground before the woods starts and 18" is actually better. My old garage had a 6" concrete wall above ground and the lower portion of the walls started to rot from water splashing on them. Many times builders skimp on costs because they won't be around when the problems start 10 years later. I believe in doing it correctly the first time even if it costs more. In the end, it will save you money. Spend a little more now and save a lot later on because you will have to remove the old (wasted) and rebuild with new. A building is only as good as its foundation. In Florida, monolithic slabs are good, because there is no frost and the ground usually drains well. Termites are the problem down there though. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

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