Garage sizing for tractor and implements

[Komrade]

My tractor is about 20 feet long, and 8-9" high.

I am planning building a garage. It's going into the hill, so it'll get progressively expensive the bigger it becomes.

I currently plan on having it to be about 10' high. I plan on making the Garage base width 16 (tractor), 14 and 14 (cars and truck), for a total of 34. On the right hand size I'll have an additional 12 feet of width for office/shop.

I am hoping to make it 28' deep. I would like to have pallet racks in the back of the garage (the standard depth of those is about 4 feet) so I could store stuff on them, including tractor implements. I may have additional storage (left hand side lean on shed) outside for implements that don't care if it's cold (e.g. w/o hydralics)

I know "bigger is better", but bigger is also more expensive. How do I find a happy medium?

Thanks.

 

[KubotaToy]

I used the old adage that enough is too small, I figured I needed a 32x34 shop for my two tractors and then build a 50 x55. Just last week my wife was visiting me in my shop and told me "you really should have built a bigger shop." So, build as big as you can afford and I would go deeper then 28 feet to allow some wiggle room. You will be surprised what 5 additional feet will do.

 

[murphy1244]

I would try for 32x40 x 12 high. with 10' doors. Thats what I should of built instead of 24x30x9' high with 8' doors.

 

[9973720wb19]

I under estimated how much space implements and a few tool box cabinets take up. I like the high ceiling, you could add a lift later. for implements like, Box Blade, Weight Box, Bucket & snow Blade. I built dollies and push them around the shop as needed. my goal was to be able to get to anything without having to move anything else...I almost made it. Also, you'll want some room to work on your equipment. My shop has a second floor which works out with storing oils, supplies, and small stuff. I have a separate shed that I have fuel (feels better to have cans of fuel separate from my expensive equipment) shovels, rakes, chains, ropes, sprayer, and other hand tools. that way they don't take up space in my shop. My shop has a few floor drains as well, nice with melting snow, etc. A few things I could not be without now that I added these later...water (self draining well), heaters (wall hung), and of course electric.

 

[Komrade]

I plan to share the garage with cars. I understand it needing to be deeper for tractors. I could see how up to 32 feet it might be useful. My problem is digging into the hilll (uphill), the deeper I make it the more I hill I have to remove, the stronger the wall would have to be to hold the dirt.

 

[Komrade]

The other thing. I like using dollies for implements, but stacking them vertically sounded like a good idea to me
something like in this article

 

[Looking4new]

If you allow 8' width for each vehicle including the tractor that will give you room to work around them.

 

[SIMassey]

My tractor is about 20 feet long, and 8-9" high.

I am planning building a garage. It's going into the hill, so it'll get progressively expensive the bigger it becomes.

I currently plan on having it to be about 10' high. I plan on making the Garage base width 16 (tractor), 14 and 14 (cars and truck), for a total of 34. On the right hand size I'll have an additional 12 feet of width for office/shop.

I am hoping to make it 28' deep. I would like to have pallet racks in the back of the garage (the standard depth of those is about 4 feet) so I could store stuff on them, including tractor implements. I may have additional storage (left hand side lean on shed) outside for implements that don't care if it's cold (e.g. w/o hydralics)

I know "bigger is better", but bigger is also more expensive. How do I find a happy medium?

Thanks.

Built a 30 by 50, with 16 foot under truss in 2007. 2 doors on 30 foot gable end. 1, 10 by 10 OH door and 1, 12 by 14 foot OH door. Big enough to fit a fifth wheel camper to back in then run sliders out which I did not own yet. Ended up with a 34 footer. Needless to say with pickup, 4 wheeler, 2 tractors, 3 garden tractors, utility trailer, and a few implements, I ran out of room. Put on a 20 by 50 enclosed leanto, with 10 foot under truss with 16 by 8 OH door in 2013. Now have room enough to get around everything stored inside with room to spare. So far LOL. I wish I built bigger to start with but budget did not allow it at the time. Worked out really well though. No regrets.

Forgot the boat.:laughing: o

 

[newbury]

My tractor is about 20 feet long, and 8-9" high.

I am planning building a garage. It's going into the hill, so it'll get progressively expensive the bigger it becomes.

I currently plan on having it to be about 10' high. I plan on making the Garage base width 16 (tractor), 14 and 14 (cars and truck), for a total of 34. On the right hand size I'll have an additional 12 feet of width for office/shop.

Isn't 16+14+14=44?

I am hoping to make it 28' deep. I would like to have pallet racks in the back of the garage (the standard depth of those is about 4 feet) so I could store stuff on them, including tractor implements. I may have additional storage (left hand side lean on shed) outside for implements that don't care if it's cold (e.g. w/o hydralics)

I know "bigger is better", but bigger is also more expensive. How do I find a happy medium?

Thanks.

It would be better to go 12' high if you can.
I've got shops with 14', 10', 12' and 8' ceilings. I wish they were all 12'.

 

[bobmisi]

I'm just finishing up a 26 deep by 46 long garage built into a bank with 12 foot ceilings and a full upstairs. Total concrete for the project was 100 yards with ten inch walls reinforced wit rebar in the walls and also in the footings as per the new code. We used I Joists that could span 33 feet spaced 19 inches on center, but we spaced them 12 inches on center to eliminate any bounce, and we really have a solid upstairs floor with no bounce. The I Joists are 16 inches tall and laminated nailers top and bottom. we filled them with insulation and ended up with R-51. The garage is totally sheetrocked with 5/8 and that makes the I joists more rigid also. Nice to have clear span to move around in. The garage space never goes below 41 degrees, even with the nights we have had this winter at 10-15 below, so the pipes won't freeze, but I have a 100,000 btu propane modine heater just in case and when we work in there. I used three O/H doors (10X10) with R-16 insulation. I would recommend wider doors as it's tight getting the one ton in with the mirrors. Two 16 foot doors would be the best for me. Feel free to PM me with any questions if I can help.