Garage sizing for tractor and implements

[Komrade]

My tractor is about 20 feet long, and 8-9" high.

I am planning building a garage. It's going into the hill, so it'll get progressively expensive the bigger it becomes.

I currently plan on having it to be about 10' high. I plan on making the Garage base width 16 (tractor), 14 and 14 (cars and truck), for a total of 34. On the right hand size I'll have an additional 12 feet of width for office/shop.

I am hoping to make it 28' deep. I would like to have pallet racks in the back of the garage (the standard depth of those is about 4 feet) so I could store stuff on them, including tractor implements. I may have additional storage (left hand side lean on shed) outside for implements that don't care if it's cold (e.g. w/o hydralics)

I know "bigger is better", but bigger is also more expensive. How do I find a happy medium?

Thanks.

 

[KubotaToy]

I used the old adage that enough is too small, I figured I needed a 32x34 shop for my two tractors and then build a 50 x55. Just last week my wife was visiting me in my shop and told me "you really should have built a bigger shop." So, build as big as you can afford and I would go deeper then 28 feet to allow some wiggle room. You will be surprised what 5 additional feet will do.

 

[murphy1244]

I would try for 32x40 x 12 high. with 10' doors. Thats what I should of built instead of 24x30x9' high with 8' doors.

 

[9973720wb19]

I under estimated how much space implements and a few tool box cabinets take up. I like the high ceiling, you could add a lift later. for implements like, Box Blade, Weight Box, Bucket & snow Blade. I built dollies and push them around the shop as needed. my goal was to be able to get to anything without having to move anything else...I almost made it. Also, you'll want some room to work on your equipment. My shop has a second floor which works out with storing oils, supplies, and small stuff. I have a separate shed that I have fuel (feels better to have cans of fuel separate from my expensive equipment) shovels, rakes, chains, ropes, sprayer, and other hand tools. that way they don't take up space in my shop. My shop has a few floor drains as well, nice with melting snow, etc. A few things I could not be without now that I added these later...water (self draining well), heaters (wall hung), and of course electric.

 

[Komrade]

I plan to share the garage with cars. I understand it needing to be deeper for tractors. I could see how up to 32 feet it might be useful. My problem is digging into the hilll (uphill), the deeper I make it the more I hill I have to remove, the stronger the wall would have to be to hold the dirt.

 

[Komrade]

The other thing. I like using dollies for implements, but stacking them vertically sounded like a good idea to me
something like in this article

 

[Looking4new]

If you allow 8' width for each vehicle including the tractor that will give you room to work around them.

 

[SIMassey]

My tractor is about 20 feet long, and 8-9" high.

I am planning building a garage. It's going into the hill, so it'll get progressively expensive the bigger it becomes.

I currently plan on having it to be about 10' high. I plan on making the Garage base width 16 (tractor), 14 and 14 (cars and truck), for a total of 34. On the right hand size I'll have an additional 12 feet of width for office/shop.

I am hoping to make it 28' deep. I would like to have pallet racks in the back of the garage (the standard depth of those is about 4 feet) so I could store stuff on them, including tractor implements. I may have additional storage (left hand side lean on shed) outside for implements that don't care if it's cold (e.g. w/o hydralics)

I know "bigger is better", but bigger is also more expensive. How do I find a happy medium?

Thanks.

Built a 30 by 50, with 16 foot under truss in 2007. 2 doors on 30 foot gable end. 1, 10 by 10 OH door and 1, 12 by 14 foot OH door. Big enough to fit a fifth wheel camper to back in then run sliders out which I did not own yet. Ended up with a 34 footer. Needless to say with pickup, 4 wheeler, 2 tractors, 3 garden tractors, utility trailer, and a few implements, I ran out of room. Put on a 20 by 50 enclosed leanto, with 10 foot under truss with 16 by 8 OH door in 2013. Now have room enough to get around everything stored inside with room to spare. So far LOL. I wish I built bigger to start with but budget did not allow it at the time. Worked out really well though. No regrets.

Forgot the boat.:laughing: o

 

[newbury]

My tractor is about 20 feet long, and 8-9" high.

I am planning building a garage. It's going into the hill, so it'll get progressively expensive the bigger it becomes.

I currently plan on having it to be about 10' high. I plan on making the Garage base width 16 (tractor), 14 and 14 (cars and truck), for a total of 34. On the right hand size I'll have an additional 12 feet of width for office/shop.

Isn't 16+14+14=44?

I am hoping to make it 28' deep. I would like to have pallet racks in the back of the garage (the standard depth of those is about 4 feet) so I could store stuff on them, including tractor implements. I may have additional storage (left hand side lean on shed) outside for implements that don't care if it's cold (e.g. w/o hydralics)

I know "bigger is better", but bigger is also more expensive. How do I find a happy medium?

Thanks.

It would be better to go 12' high if you can.
I've got shops with 14', 10', 12' and 8' ceilings. I wish they were all 12'.

 

[bobmisi]

I'm just finishing up a 26 deep by 46 long garage built into a bank with 12 foot ceilings and a full upstairs. Total concrete for the project was 100 yards with ten inch walls reinforced wit rebar in the walls and also in the footings as per the new code. We used I Joists that could span 33 feet spaced 19 inches on center, but we spaced them 12 inches on center to eliminate any bounce, and we really have a solid upstairs floor with no bounce. The I Joists are 16 inches tall and laminated nailers top and bottom. we filled them with insulation and ended up with R-51. The garage is totally sheetrocked with 5/8 and that makes the I joists more rigid also. Nice to have clear span to move around in. The garage space never goes below 41 degrees, even with the nights we have had this winter at 10-15 below, so the pipes won't freeze, but I have a 100,000 btu propane modine heater just in case and when we work in there. I used three O/H doors (10X10) with R-16 insulation. I would recommend wider doors as it's tight getting the one ton in with the mirrors. Two 16 foot doors would be the best for me. Feel free to PM me with any questions if I can help.

 

[MidTn Mark]

Figure out the biggest thing you can fit in your budget, somehow figure out how to pay for it to be 10' wider and 10' longer and when it is done try not to be too disappointed when you realize it should have been twice as large...

I know that is probably not helpful but that is how it works for me.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I'm sure your budget limit will get maxed long before you have enough space for everything you might want. You should also consider the yearly property taxes your local government will deem appropriate to levy on your brand new 100% good structure.

 

[Jisgren]

28' isn't deep enough. I have an 5085e and built a 16x32 shed with a 10' door. Wish I had fine 12' wide door and at least 40' deep. With the pallet forks on and the box blade there is very little room to walk around the tractor.

 

[Patrickdozer]

Jisgren I was going to say same thing 28' isn't deep enough. 30 is pushing it. Id figure the length of a truck plus a few feet or a truck trailer that you could fit in with a few feet to spare.

I've drawn up my future plans a few times on some drafting or engineering paper, it will help you picture everything coming together with measurements of what your putting in there and what room you should have. My last estimate was 40x40 I would love to shave 8-10 feet somewhere and save money, but what I am figuring on paper doesn't support trying to skimp. I am looking at 3 doors one of which will be 8 or 9 wide so wife has a spot for car, and at least one or 2 at 12'x12'. I need at least one door to get whatever I purchase "whatever that may be in the future" through so I know that I need to plan for that.

I could do a 12' or a 10' high ceiling, but considering door height and possibility of putting a 2 post lift in there changes that. I am now faced with 14' ceiling height minimum for lift.

I also plan on work benches along back wall and shop equipment so that's 3-5 feet there I have lost off of depth plus another five feet to move around in front of work benches. That's 10' in depth I just lost without driving anything through door. So I figure I could put 30' of length in here minus a foot or 2 at door. Unless I cut down on my walkway in front of workbenches, but I don't like squeezing between stuff or continually tripping over stuff do to clutter because the idiot who designed the building didn't make it big enough or take into account of what was going into it.

So putting it on paper has helped me and yeah bigger is better, but I'll still need to heat it with wood stove or torpedo heater when im in there.
I'd probably be happy with having a one bay to work in for once, after working outside my entire life this would be a blessing.
I thank god these are the problems I'm faced with such as how big to build, guess it could be worse...

 

[ultrarunner]

The shop that I have in town is 22 x 30 built on a down slope... concrete floor is resting on wood floor joists with storage under with a 7' ceiling... it was here when I bought the place.

Anyway... not a day goes by working in the shop when question why it wasn't built 24 x 36... can't go wider than 24 because of setback requirement...

Being able to open a car door without worry is a nice thing... extra depth opens up all kinds of storage possibilities...

 

[ultrarunner]

I'm just finishing up a 26 deep by 46 long garage built into a bank with 12 foot ceilings and a full upstairs. Total concrete for the project was 100 yards with ten inch walls reinforced wit rebar in the walls and also in the footings as per the new code. We used I Joists that could span 33 feet spaced 19 inches on center, but we spaced them 12 inches on center to eliminate any bounce, and we really have a solid upstairs floor with no bounce. The I Joists are 16 inches tall and laminated nailers top and bottom. we filled them with insulation and ended up with R-51. The garage is totally sheetrocked with 5/8 and that makes the I joists more rigid also. Nice to have clear span to move around in. The garage space never goes below 41 degrees, even with the nights we have had this winter at 10-15 below, so the pipes won't freeze, but I have a 100,000 btu propane modine heater just in case and when we work in there. I used three O/H doors (10X10) with R-16 insulation. I would recommend wider doors as it's tight getting the one ton in with the mirrors. Two 16 foot doors would be the best for me. Feel free to PM me with any questions if I can help.

Would love to see pictures...

 

[bobmisi]

Would love to see pictures...

I will get some pictures on today hopefully. Also the size is 28X46 not 26 deep.

 

[Komrade]

Isn't 16+14+14=44?


It would be better to go 12' high if you can.
I've got shops with 14', 10', 12' and 8' ceilings. I wish they were all 12'.

Oops. typo. Fixed. There would be another 12 feet for office space/guest BR. That end definitely doesn't need 12feet ceilings.

 

[bigtiller]

Komrade,,,,, the first person to respond to your question, Kubota Toy, gave you the best advice..... He said, if I may embellish it a little,

just big enough is way to small.

 

[Komrade]

Komrade,,,,,

just big enough is way to small.

I don't necessarily disagree, but I think overall "bigger is better" mentality is why these days average home size is 3000 sq ft+ vs under 1500 they used to be a few decades ago. To me, bigger don't mean better.
Bigger, is more expensive to build, more expensive to maintain, more expensive to send to the county/state.
Need something practical where it's not too big nor too small.
Need to be able to use existing space efficiently and effectively, w/o having everything sitting on the floor randomly.

I think going with 12" of ceiling makes sense. I think going deeper than 28 feet makes sense, but I don't know if going beyond 30-32 is worth it. I think figuring out where your bench is going to be and figuring out where you need that extra 5-6' of space makes sense (but it doesn't need to be along the whole back wall, IMO). Also figuring out how much you have to have inside the garage, and what can be done outside of the garage (many things don't really need conditioned space, just need to stay out of the rain/sun).