GC 1705 in snow

[Pixguy]

Anytime I've tried pushing snow either with my back blade, blower or front loader and not put my rear chains on, ($125 set) I've been sorry.
YMMV

 

[GeneV]

I am wondering how well a 2017 GC 1705 will push and load snow. Do I need chains just on the front or no chains at?

Don't overthink it. No chains, no ballast, it's fine:

 

[Yander]

Don't overthink it. No chains, no ballast, it's fine:

looks like it does a nice job. What size plow is that? Looks like maybe 60"?

I was using a 72" blade straight to push snow when I had my GC. I suppose that is a factor also. It would not push very well on a gravel drive with that blade, without ballast. With ballast it pushed very well.

I will say to the OP, just try things and see for yourself. Everyone's application, snowfall, terrain, blade size, etc., is different. No one can tell you for certain will work. We have all experimented to find what works for us.

 

[GeneV]

looks like it does a nice job. What size plow is that? Looks like maybe 60"?

I was using a 72" blade straight to push snow when I had my GC. I suppose that is a factor also. It would not push very well on a gravel drive with that blade, without ballast. With ballast it pushed very well.

I will say to the OP, just try things and see for yourself. Everyone's application, snowfall, terrain, blade size, etc., is different. No one can tell you for certain will work. We have all experimented to find what works for us.

It's a 4' plow, which partially explains why I get by w/o chains or loaded tires. It was originally used on a Craftsman garden tractor, I just welded it on a ssqi plate to use on the Massey. The o/p is in the same region as me, not too far from Chicago, so similar weather, snowfall, etc.

I will say, these tractors come with 4wd and a locking diff...you could get by pretty well just using those as needed.

 

[tacticalturnip]

Given I'm on flat ground, I never had issue clearing my driveway with my Deere 1025R, hybrid tires, and Edge Tamers. Obviously it's a different tractor, but they are quite comparable. Hybrid tires like the R14, and in this case Carlisle Versa Turfs, are excellent in the snow. Prior to, I had R4 tires, and they'd fill with snow and slick out once there was any resistance. I hated them so much I replaced them, lol.

Now, again, I'm on flat ground- but I'm moving a fair bit of snow being in Maine. Anyhow, these are capable tractors, especially when outfitted properly.

 

[GeneV]

Given I'm on flat ground, I never had issue clearing my driveway with my Deere 1025R, hybrid tires, and Edge Tamers. Obviously it's a different tractor, but they are quite comparable. Hybrid tires like the R14, and in this case Carlisle Versa Turfs, are excellent in the snow. Prior to, I had R4 tires, and they'd fill with snow and slick out once there was any resistance. I hated them so much I replaced them, lol.

Now, again, I'm on flat ground- but I'm moving a fair bit of snow being in Maine. Anyhow, these are capable tractors, especially when outfitted properly.

There's a long tire thread somewhere here on TBN, a bunch of talk about R4 vs turf tires, vs hybrids and whatever. Per it and some chatting elsewhere, my takeaway is that not all industrial tires are the same. The R4s on the Massey are great...I like how they do on grass, in dirt, and I got no problems plowing snow with them either. JD and Kubota owners seem to hate theirs though.

 

[LouNY]

Here is a link to one thread about mounting tire chains;
Mounting tire chains

I have used about all the different styles of tractor chains around, in doing so I have come to some
fairly firm convictions on tire chains.
As far as I'm concerned the Euro studded style are the only way to go, they provide just about the most traction, while also giving the best ride quality even on roads.
I have two tractors with these at this time and have two more to suit up for this winter.
This is the style I will be putting on my little CK2620SE and the NH 8160.

 

[ray66v]

When plowing snow, weight is everything.

I push a 72" loader mounted plow on my GC2310. Turf tires, gravel driveway. No chains, or loaded tires. The backhoe gives it is all the weight I need. It's almost completely unstoppable.

I also live where it's flat. None of that seems to work, if you live with mountain goats.

 

[Bentrim]

Caution---- This tractor has front wheel assist. This is not a 4 wheel drive tractor. The front axle is not meant to drive the whole tractor, as the name implies the front axle is an assist. It is not recommended to chain up the front wheels only, the front axle can be overloaded and break. The rear wheels should be the main "drivers".

Would rather see chains on the rear and added ballast on the back. Added ballast can be fluid in the tires, an implement on the three point, or a weight box or barrel filled with concrete, stone, scrap iron, or other heavy material on the three point.

The other winter I used my MF245 with a 232 loader with no fluid in the tires, no chains, but had a 55 gallon drum filled with concrete to plow out our lane.

 

[Fields_mj]

FWIW, I built a set of chains for my old 1710 (2wd, R1 AG tires loaded). I modified a 7' truck blade to attach in place of the bucket. It would plow our road just fine so long as there was no ice under the snow. If you EVER get any ice, you'll regret not having chains. I lucked into some cheap grade 70 chain from MSC that they had discontinued, but it would have been easier to have bought the cheapest truck chains I could find and modify them to fit my tractor. Then again, I have grinders and welders so it was all a "project" for me I bought a cheap set of 4 rachet straps and use them to tension the chains. Once I installed them, I just cut the extra strap off and burned the ends.

 

[GeneV]

I don't recommend adding counterbalance for plowing. If you need weight, you're better off with filled tires and/or wheel weights. A counterbalance off the back will lighten your front end, which you don't want when plowing or pushing the snow with a box.

 

[Dmacleo]

keep in mind (on a GC series) without wheel spacers you run high chance of damaging your differential lock linkage .
those using CUTS as an example don't know that a GC series SCUT with any chain has only 1/2 inch at most (depends on chain thickness) clearance to a linkage that can ruin your drivetrain.
basically don't use chains until you use wheel spacers and the rear chains will help you the most.
I ran rear chains (also ran front chains, waste of money) with 3" spacers for a season. all told they were not the best option for ME as I was using rear blower but in many cases they do help. as long as you (on a GC series SCUT) don't tear your differential lock lever out of your transaxle. that will cost you.

edit:added GC series clarification.

 

[oldpilot]

I've been plowing in southeastern New Hampshire for more than fifty years. Always with chains on the rear tires, on a 25-30 hp tractor (a 1952 Allis Chalmers, a 1975 International 284, and a recent Mahindra 1626). Our driveway is 1/3 mile, all gravel except for the parking area and a steep section that's paved. The snow is usually wet. Definitely I'd choose industrial tread and ladder chains. I don't see the point in putting chains on the front -- indeed, I generally find it's a mistake to use the Mahindra's front-wheel drive. I keep my left foot on the rear-wheel differential lock almost all the time. I'm 91 and have no problem putting on the chains in November (though hanging them up again in April is becoming a challenge).

The only other piece of wisdom I have to share is that Worksaver plows are a POS. I don't dare plow faster than walking speed, and even at 4 mph I've broken the plow twice in the past three winters.

 

[Dmacleo]

Fwiw I snow blow few driveways and sometimes clear 1200ft by 24ft private road with my gc2400 and use bucket in mid Maine.
Running no chains.
I get a lot of ice. Chains SUCK then.

What's worked best for me is an R1 tire mounted in reverse on front (rear blower) and R4 tires mounted normally on rear. Did try R1 on rear but lost bit of ground clearance.

After winter I swap the fronts side to side.

 

[LouNY]

Running no chains.
I get a lot of ice. Chains SUCK then.

Are you saying chains don't work on ice??

If so you haven't used a good set of chains.

 

[pwhite42]

I am wondering how well a 2017 GC 1705 will push and load snow. Do I need chains just on the front or no chains at?

We have a GC2300 as one of our tractors. I added wheel weights and spiked chains. My driveway is fairly steep. They worked well. After I get it paved again I don't think I'll use the spiked chains. I may go back to the regular chains. Maybe I'll just plow on the downhill run.

 

[LouNY]

My driveway is quite steep and no matter what type of rig is being used for plowing, trying to plow uphill is hard. It's a tire spinning chain chewing wheel hopping exercise in fustration so I just plow it all downhill. Plow down reverse and hustle back up and plow down again, repeat till done. It's easy to plow downhill, I could just use neutral and lots of brake to keep the speed down.

 

[Dmacleo]

Are you saying chains don't work on ice??

If so you haven't used a good set of chains.

I'm saying for MY uses chains were a hindrance.
as much rubber hitting the ground works best for ME in MY area with MY climate.
been using chains on many vehicles since 1982 or so. they definitely have their good points.
they are not a panacea.

 

[Yander]

@weeder after reading all of the different opinions and almost no two alike, I'll repeat my comment from earlier in the thread. You have to try things and see what works for you based on your climate, driveway, and needs in general.

I've plowed driveways with chains that I couldn't have plowed without chains. I plowed driveways with R4s with success. Your tractor is light, so the guys who are plowing with heavier machines with loaded tires will have a different experience.

Your tires are small, loading them will get you maybe #100 lbs of ballast. You need weight on the back with R4s just not so much weight that it makes your front end light. Again, experiment with that. Easy to add, remove weight as necessary. Wheel weights is also an option for weight but not sure how expensive they are.

 

[weeder]

@weeder after reading all of the different opinions and almost no two alike, I'll repeat my comment from earlier in the thread. You have to try things and see what works for you based on your climate, driveway, and needs in general.

I've plowed driveways with chains that I couldn't have plowed without chains. I plowed driveways with R4s with success. Your tractor is light, so the guys who are plowing with heavier machines with loaded tires will have a different experience.

Your tires are small, loading them will get you maybe #100 lbs of ballast. You need weight on the back with R4s just not so much weight that it makes your front end light. Again, experiment with that. Easy to add, remove weight as necessary. Wheel weights is also an option for weight but not sure how expensive they are.

Okay I want to THANK everyone for all of the advice I need that