Oil & Fuel GC 2610 Hydraulic Oil Level

[Wacky]

I would not jump to the conclusion that this is an epidemic, or a conspiracy...yet.

I am not even sure your deficiency was enough to do any significant damage in 50 hours of use.

Then, you need to consider it would not do their reputation much good to have these things failing left and right either.

Although, I guess I could argue they don't seem to care much about the pump defect they stuck the early model owners with. :smiley_aafz:

I'm sorry to have misled you. I caught it when I brought it home and was getting ready to mow. I always check all my fluids BEFORE I use it. Well, not all. I don't always open the front axle to check the level. But, if I see some signs of leakage I will unscrew the cap and check.

 

[ray66v]

I'm sorry to have misled you. I caught it when I brought it home and was getting ready to mow. I always check all my fluids BEFORE I use it. Well, not all. I don't always open the front axle to check the level. But, if I see some signs of leakage I will unscrew the cap and check.

I think understood you.

I was just saying even if you had missed it, I don't think you would have had an issue by the time you did your 50hr, and changed the oil, which would have corrected the "mistake".

It's well documented here that the dealers cannot be trusted to have an intelligent, qualified person, who takes an ounce of pride in their job, prep these machines. Which is why we warn all newbies to check their work.

Yes, we only hear about the bad ones, but there are far too many egregious mistakes, not to mention the fact that they are repeated over, and over, to be just simple errors.

That being said, someone on here once said, somebody, somewhere buys one of these tractors, and never changes any of the fluids as long as they own it. And it probably is still fine. We certainly have not heard from them here, decrying their mistakes.

My dad is one of those. He has a 1995 Honda TLB, it has gotten fuel only, unless it's broke, it's whole life.

Along with nearly every mower, and every other piece of equipment he has ever bought. :laughing:

 

[Wacky]

Yeah, your dad is probably one of those that rarely ever HAD a problem too!

 

[ScottW]

My dealer's prep job when I got my GC2410 in 2010 was excellent, as far as I could tell. Every zerk fitting was brushed free of paint and greased, and all fluid levels were fine. They also put color-coded zip ties on the hydraulic hoses so I can always tell at a glance what goes to what. Two hooks welded on top of the FEL bucket for lifting with a chain were nice too (or are those factory?).

 

[dspdante]

Sounds like they are filling these below the sight glass so after the warranty runs out and you have a failure, it will be all your fault for not doing as the manual stated! That is EXACTLY how mine was delivered! That and check you front axle too, mine was low also. And I can't remember how many grease fittings were missed! Like ray66 said, if they were hard to get to, or had to move the loader or BH to get to them, they were likely missed!
I was given a gallon of permatran when I bought it to top off myself and used it all!
Now, after the fist 50 I have switched all over to Amsoil. I like the added security of protection from syn. I have 128 hrs on mine now and LOVE it! I do not deal with my original dealer for anything, was treated very unfairly and found one that I deal with on a regular basis for filters and such. You have made a very good investment in my opinion. Get the service and parts manual because it is very easy to do all the work yourself on these.
:thumbsup:

Thanks for the info. After using the machine for a while, when I bring throttle to idle there is a loud whining sound from the rear of tractor. Is that normal?

 

[ScottW]

I don't think the loud whining is normal. Unless you have the BH on, two of the hydraulic hoses in back should be connected to each other to allow fluid to flow. If they are not connected, you will get a whining sound as the pump strains.

 

[boutym]

Coming up on the 50hr on my 2610 TLB and the manual is a little confusing in the procedure. The manual assumes there is no loader or backhoe attached and states to make sure the 3pt is fully lowered before changing the trans/hyd oil. Obviously this can't be done with the BH attached, so is it necessary to remove the BH to adhere to the manual? How about the volume of oil with the loader and backhoe attached. There is going to be some quantity of oil in the BH and FEL cylinders that isn't going to drain. Do people just use the sight gauge to get it close, cycle everything, add as necessary and repeat until it looks like you've nailed it?

I'm working on getting the service manuals for this thing. I only hope they are better than the user manual because the user manuals pretty much suck.

 

[ray66v]

Coming up on the 50hr on my 2610 TLB and the manual is a little confusing in the procedure. The manual assumes there is no loader or backhoe attached and states to make sure the 3pt is fully lowered before changing the trans/hyd oil. Obviously this can't be done with the BH attached, so is it necessary to remove the BH to adhere to the manual? How about the volume of oil with the loader and backhoe attached. There is going to be some quantity of oil in the BH and FEL cylinders that isn't going to drain. Do people just use the sight gauge to get it close, cycle everything, add as necessary and repeat until it looks like you've nailed it?

I'm working on getting the service manuals for this thing. I only hope they are better than the user manual because the user manuals pretty much suck.

Yes, you should remove, or at least lower the backhoe.

You cannot do anything about the oil in the FEL and the hoe. And since there is absolutely nothing wrong with any of the oil you are replacing, why worry about it?

Don't forget to service the suction screen located inside the left wheel.

 

[boutym]

Yes, you should remove, or at least lower the backhoe.

You cannot do anything about the oil in the FEL and the hoe. And since there is absolutely nothing wrong with it any of the oil you are replacing, why worry about it?

Don't forget to service the suction screen located inside the left wheel.

Thanks. I got to thinking about it and figured that since I've been wanting to try taking the hoe off and putting it back on this is as good a time as any.

 

[ray66v]

If you cannot get the hoses to connect when you go to put it back on, the lines have built up pressure. You can loosen the hydraulic fittings for a few seconds with a wrench, or put a rag over the end of the hose, and tap the ball on the end of the fitting with a hammer a few times, to let off some of the pressure. They will connect easily after that.

Don't forget to hook the correct two hoses together on the tractor, before running the engine with the hoe off.

If you forget, the loud noise you hear is the pump telling you, your stupid. :thumbsup: