GC1700 sub compact neutral switch wont allow starter to go

[Dmacleo]

If electrical diagram in Tractor manual is to be believed (page 4-24) it may be switch #22 and its actually a two wire circuit.....

Dale

got one sitting in palm of hand. its 4 wire







edit: I have full service manual and also noticed the schematics look like a 2 wire yet....there we are. one in hand worth more than one on paper LOL

edit: forgot mention must pull rt rear tire to access and have rear of tractor high in air will make it easier.

range switch has red yellow blue black and seat switch has red black. if cannot make switch work I would cross the black and red on range switch to tell system seat switch is activated then cross the yellow blue to simulate range switch being neutral. just a thought. can't really get a good "picture" from service manual.

 

[not2old]

I don't know how it works but it's more complicated than just a neutral start switch. If it's in neutral, it will start without sitting in the seat. If it's running ,getting off the seat will kill the motor if not in neutral.

 

[CobyRupert]

Sounds like a 2 pole (2 contacts or 2 switches) switch.
When in neutral, one closed contact completes the interlock to start. This is the one you need to jumper to start.
Seems the other pole (of the switch) might be wired in parallel with the seat switch that keeps tractor running. Tractor either has to be in neutral (and switched closed) or seat switch closed to keep tractor running.

 

[mgstevens]

Having spent a day or so not tractoring because of this, I learned that there are two switches, the seat and the gear selector (neutral) switch.

In my case the plastic yolk on the neutral (gear selector) switch had one leg of the yolk broken off. It took me a while to note that the switch needs to be in the center position (versus off to one end..) to allow starting.

Then there is the additional cutoff switch under the seat. In my case, the twisting action of the TLB seat from front to rear position had pinched the seat-switch cable and shorted it. Then, the previous owner had used a zip tie to hold the seat switch down, but the lever of the switch could slip out of the hold of the zip tie, something I need to address every winter it seems....

Anyway, to sort the non-starting, check the position and wiring of both switches and that they are both doing their jobs. In my case, upon finding out that the fix for the broken plastic switch yolk-arm is to replace the entire switch for good money only to have the deficient plastic break again, I will fashion an arm/yolk from aluminum and take it from there.

If someone is being a responsible operator, defeating the cutoff switches is more practical, but I'm sure there are people that really need them operable.

 

[Dmacleo]

Having spent a day or so not tractoring because of this, I learned that there are two switches, the seat and the gear selector (neutral) switch.

this is what happened to mine, one leg of the fork snapped off. to operate for a few days I cut the other leg off and glued it in place (centered) to allow starting.

 

[coldsteelva]

I had a shorted neutral safety also - and took a while for me to identify the short as the cause - immediate solution was to go to the end of the pigtail on the Left hand side (even though the switch lives on the right), unplug from the connector and jumper the pins with a small U-shape of wire.