GC1705 Adding LED Lights

[Massey2019]

Want to add some LED lights for front and back lighting to my tractor.
Since I知 no electrician, need some suggestions.

Uses: mowing, loader work snow plowing next winter.

Is there a watt or amp limit I should stay within?
Should I connect direct to the battery or use the pigtail connector that appears to be open in the rear by the top link?
Is there a suggested place to mount the switches?
I don稚 want to alter the fixed ROPS to run wires, maybe snake them in the exhistong holes or better to zip tie them in plastic conduit to the outside?

Thanks

 

[atsah]

I bought four of these. I used the pigtail in the rear, I made a bracket and mounted a switch on it and on one of the bolts of the ROPS, I snaked them in through the ROPS. I made a bracket for the top on the ROPS and used square U bolts. I made it big enough to mount two strobe magnet lights as well.

lights my yard up like daylight.. I have to shut them off when I'm working near the road if a car comes, it will blind them.

https://www.amazon.com/Auxbeam-1800lm-Driving-Lights-Trucks/dp/B00T62RK1U

 

[Massey2019]

Great, like your setup! Appreciate the link to the lights.

Looks like it won’t be too difficult to install and wire.

Your snowblower looks like a beast!

Thanks

 

[atsah]

Great, like your setup! Appreciate the link to the lights.

Looks like it won’t be too difficult to install and wire.

Your snowblower looks like a beast!

Thanks

Thanks, it works good.. Now that I think of it, I tied the LED's into the harness and is controlled by the light switch on the dash, the headlight wires coming out of the "red" tail lights is what I spliced into at the ROPS (so no running wires to a switch), when the headlight switch is on all the lights are on, the strobes are on there own switch. If you need any pictures of switches or anything I can take them for you, otherwise good luck with you're install.

 

[Massey2019]

I think I would like mine wired the same way. If there is a need for the headlights, then probably a need for the additional light.

So, my assumption is that with LED lights, there isn’t any big amp draw that will blow fuses?

If you have time, a picture would be helpful.

Appreciate the responses.

 

[atsah]

I think I would like mine wired the same way. If there is a need for the headlights, then probably a need for the additional light.

So, my assumption is that with LED lights, there isn’t any big amp draw that will blow fuses?

If you have time, a picture would be helpful.

Appreciate the responses.

They are 18W a piece, that's nothing.. I figured the same , when I need lights, I need them all.. What would you like pictures of?
I also replaced my flashers/tail lights and headlights with LED bulbs, probably cost me and $20 to do that.

 

[Massey2019]

So I just tie into the hot wire that powers the tail lights? Then the frame is the ground?

Good idea to convert the other bulbs.

Current draw appears to be insignificant.

Thanks

 

[atsah]

So I just tie into the hot wire that powers the tail lights? Then the frame is the ground?

Good idea to convert the other bulbs.

Current draw appears to be insignificant.

Thanks

They have there own ground wire.. I believe I tied them together and ran them down the rops to an existing bolt on the chassis for ground but I will look tomorrow to make sure..

 

[Massey2019]

Easy, I appreciate your time and help.

 

[atsah]

Easy, I appreciate your time and help.

Ya, everything is right there at the rops, no switches needed or running wires under the deck or anything and you can save you're extra power point near the top link for something else some day..

 

[WranglerX]

Only problem with using the rear power connector, if you shut off tractor power it is shut off too as its controlled by the key... You might considering adding another fuse and switch to power your added lights so they can stay on even if tractor is shut down.... I did so I can shut down tractor and still keep sprayer pump running.....

Dale

 

[4570Man]

I like having the tractor bar separate of the key because I use it to light the building while I close up and flip the light bar off as the last thing. I also use the light bar to help when loading the tractor after dark and flip it off as the last step. It’s also also easier to wire that way vs trying to to tap into the tractors electric supply.

 

[4570Man]

I have a pair of 18 watt lights on the back of my truck. They’re nice backup lights but they’re not enough light from working on the tractor by my taste. I have a 120 watt bar on the tractor. I recently added nearly 200 watts of lights on my Grasshopper. It has a real alternator unlike most lawnmowers so I’m hoping it’ll be able to support that load.

 

[Massey2019]

,

I have a pair of 18 watt lights on the back of my truck. They’re nice backup lights but they’re not enough light from working on the tractor by my taste. I have a 120 watt bar on the tractor. I recently added nearly 200 watts of lights on my Grasshopper. It has a real alternator unlike most lawnmowers so I’m hoping it’ll be able to support that load. View attachment 594258

Good suggestions, I appreciate them. It looks like it won’t be much of a challenge to install them.

Funny, I could disassemble the entire tractor and reassemble with no concerns, but wiring and electrical stuff always makes me hesitant.

It is great to be able to come to this forum and get help and suggestions.

 

[atsah]

I powered them from the rops lights off the switch because I like to leave the lights on after I shut the tractor to close up the barn and then hit the headlight switch and all the lights shut off..

 

[Nacademus]

This is how I ran my lighting on my GC1720. I ran the wiring along all the factory pathways. I disconnected the stock backhoe lighting circuit and capped/abandoned it for a custom ran one. All connections are weather-pack connectors and double heat-shrink wrapped. The wiring itself is thick insulated 2 wire sleeved.

I have a circuit controller with 4 relay circuits that operate off a soft switch to control all the lights. These photos are from the work being done. Any wiring you see hanging at the ROPS was loomed and ziptied tight and out of the way. The only visible wire is the one from the overhead lights until it goes down the ROPS and disappears into the pre-existing hole. All lights have a connector near where they terminate for easy replacement. If you have any questions, let me know.

 

[Massey2019]

Appreciate the information and pictures. I知 going to avoid drilling any holes in the rops. Using wire covers and zip ties should work fine.

One lack of electrical knowledge question: Any current draw concerns when adding LED lights? Plan to add two facing front and two to the rear.

I don稚 think they draw much but asking doesn稚 hurt.
Thanks

 

[atsah]

I think I answered that question in an earlier post. 18 watt LED lights draws very little, you could put 8 on it and not notice any draw to speak of..

 

[Nacademus]

Appreciate the information and pictures. I知 going to avoid drilling any holes in the rops. Using wire covers and zip ties should work fine.

One lack of electrical knowledge question: Any current draw concerns when adding LED lights? Plan to add two facing front and two to the rear.

I don稚 think they draw much but asking doesn稚 hurt.
Thanks

I, too, didn't want to drill any holes or impart any lasting evidence of his mod in case I wanted to remove it all.

The current draw is quite low for LEDs. Just be sure the circuit has a fuse and appropriately sized stranded wire gauge is used.

One of my 20" light-bars running through my relay box came in at just over 2A actual. The wattage shown on most sale ads is at the MAX voltage shown (Most LED lights have a listed range from 10v to 30v). My small pod LED work-light isn't even an amp. Just food for thought.

 

[Massey2019]

Good to know that I won稚 be taxing the system with LEDs ! Maybe I could light it up like a Christmas tree, that would give my neighbors something to talk about!

Thanks