Gelling again

[Thumper & Buttercup]

Any way you can put a tarp over the tractor and run a heater under it, I've used a camping heater like that before. I've also used my nipco (torpedo) heater with the tarp hooked to the handle, about 1/2 hour will thaw out everything you got under there.

 

[zuiko]

Yea I might end up giving that a shot. I'll probably have to pick up a huge tarp and give that a try. I don't have anything near big enough.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Do you have a Farm Service (FS) or COOP dealer in your area. I would try buying fuel where the farmers do. At least these guys know what they have for fuel and what to treat it with.
Bill

 

[RobS]

Anyone ever try wrapping some of those handwarmer packets around the filter? It may, or may not help, any safety concerns though?

 

[smfcpacfp]

I might look into buying #1 rather than the 50/50 mix next year too... if I can find a station that sells #1. The vast majority around here just sell the kero/#2 mix in winter. Not sure if that would make my problem better or worse though. Can #1 be mixed with kerosene to lower the cloud point?

I think you mean mixing #2 (not #1) and kerosene. #1 diesel and kerosene have virtually the same cloud and pour points. A 50/50 blend takes the cloud point to 0 F. That would cut it most of the time, but if you had that stuff in your tractor and a cold spell hit, you would be screwed, because the stuff in your lines and filter wouldn't flow.

It is just best to run #1 and a lubricant additive when real low temperatures are a possibility. You say you have a hard time finding #1 in Minnesota. That surprises me. I would have a very hard time finding #2 here in the UP of Michigan this time of year.

 

[JoeL4330]

are you sure you don't have some water in the fuel, too? I would: drain some fuel from the tank at the lowest point (normally at the fuel filter) into a transparent bottle, let it sit and look for water bubbles ...then, drain the tank completely into containers by pulling the fuel feed line to the filter; pull the filter and take it inside; let the fuel sit in the containers while you and the filter warm up; and replace the filter and then refill the tank by siphoning from the containers which I hoist onto the hood, leaving an inch or so in the bottom of each container ...to be checked, later, for water bubbles in a warm place.

If you find water, which came from your fuel supplier, you can complain, change suppliers, or use the let-it-sit-and-siphon trick (or, pump through a water block filter to fill the tank).

And, to repeat myself, there are excellent (if expensive) after-market filter housings that also do water separation and heat the fuel.

 

[coobie]

The best solution is to use # 1 diesel in the winter.

#2 diesel typically has a cloud point (point at which the wax in the fuel begins to solidify) of about +40 degrees F.

#1 diesel typically has a cloud point of about -40 degrees F. Unfortunately #1 has much less energy and doesn't lubricate very well, which is why it is important to use an additive. I use Opti-Lube XPD which is kind of expensive (about $50 a gallon) but gives the best test results of any additive. It should treat around 400 gallons of diesel.

Here is another problem - what kind of fuel does the fuel dealer actually have in the #1 and #2 tank. Some dealers also sell what they call a winter blend - a mixture of #1 and #2. What does that mean? If there is a problem guess who will be out there heating up the fuel filter and blowing out the fuel lines - not the fuel dealer. If you want to do blending, do it yourself.

I have used #2 for the last two winters.I have a 170 gal.diesel tank at our house,I treat my tank with schaeffers diesel treat 2000 or stanadyne performance formula.I have never had a problem.coobie

 

[number two]

zuiko-Anymore,kerosene and #1 are the same product,usually I see a cloud point about -40F.You're in MN-have you tried Holiday fuel?I used to deliver for them and right now,depending where in MN,they'd be blending 60/40 or 50/50 plus using an additive equal to 20% kero/#1,good for -30F or better.

 

[john_bud]

Zuiko,

I feel for you. The PS is BS --> it used to work ok, but the new fuel and especially the bio make it as helpful as a mud stain on a wedding dress.

Howes Diesel Treat is much better than the PS. Farm/Fleet or Fleet Farm should have it or a large truck stop. Treatments are used to PREVENT wax from forming, but they don't "fix" wax after it's formed.

To fix your issue, you may have to drain out 5-10 gal of fuel into plastic jugs and bring them into the house overnight to warm up. The crystals of fuel (wax) won't go back into solution until about 60F for 2-4 hours. Minimum! 70F for 8 hours is better. Then add Howes to it at the winter rate or slightly higher. Change the fuel filter, add the warm fuel and give it a rip. Should be good. Adding some #1 will help too. at this point I would do that too in a "belt and suspenders" solution mode.

jb

 

[Farmall45b]

Zuiko,

Where are you buying fuel from? I live in the Twin Cities and have not had a fuel problem yet, although this is my first year with a diesel tractor. I have been buying my fuel from Kwik Trip. It is sold as "arctic blend" fuel that is seasonally adjusted. I do not add any type of additive to the fuel. Holiday is advertising that their fuel is blended to -30 f right now. I also have a friend that has a Kubota tractor. He buys fuel at whatever station that he is driving past or that has the cheapest fuel. He does not add any aditive and has four years on his tractor without problems. I just saw a press release from Amsoil for the diesel recovery. They state that convetional additives will not work with the ULSD and BIO Diesel blending that is occuring now days.