Generator in a outside building and powering the panel...

   / Generator in a outside building and powering the panel...
  • Thread Starter
#61  
Still can't share that neutral with the utility and generator.
Can't pull two more live lines from the generator into the same conduit with cables supplied from the utility .
Can you show where this prohibited under the NEC? I don't live in Canada, so it makes no difference to me what is or isn't allowed north of the border.

There are transfer switches that do switch the neutral if the generator has the neutral bonded to ground inside the generator. The transfer switches that only switch the lines are for generators where the neutral floats free of earth connection.
And my genset has the option to unbond the neutral (which I will do when I hook things up).

What is closer to the barn? The utility pole with the meter base? Or the house electrical panel which is supplying the barn? Is the utility service 60,100 or 200amp ?
You don't get it do you. For the 2nd or 3rd time, THE METER BASE IS ON THE SIDE OF THE HOUSE. The next power pole is next to the road and is only used to hold up the wires. There is a 200 amp service to the house.

Aaron Z
 
   / Generator in a outside building and powering the panel... #62  
Regarding transfer switches switching the neutral... Some do. Some don't. You have to check with your local code. If they say you don't have to switch the neutral, then you don't have to switch the neutral. Some utilities only require a double-pole double-throw switch to switch the two hot legs from utility power to generator power. The neutrals are tied together and the ground remains bonded in the main panel.

RE: transfer switch switching neutral. Some do, some don't, it's a matter of checking with the manufacturer model you have. This determines whether or not your generator is installed as a "separately derived system" and whether you might bond or keep separate the ground and neutral at the generator. Make note of this phrase as the Code has different requirements. If the transfer switch switches the neutral (i.e. disconnects from the utility power neutral) you have a separately derived system. Note , if you put a transfer switch ahead of your main panel this becomes the first service disconnect point where ground and neutral are bonded.

An alternate to my (code compliant and really cheap) idea of wiring genny to sub panel and using existing subpanel feeder wiring to backfeed main panel (2- kirk key interlocks required, no new wiring required) would be to:
Pull 2 hots from genny through sub-panel, through conduit to main panel, to: a 50 amp double pole breaker located in the first 2 branch circuit slots of the main panel. This may take some rearranging of circuits there. You can then buy a cheap mechanical interlock that screws to the front of the main panel & prevents the main utility breaker from being on at the same time as the generator back-feed breaker.

But back to your original question of sharing the neutral and ground when you do this, see posts #34 (&33). It all comes down to the local AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction / Inspector(?)). You're the test case we need! Good luck!:) I say go for it and if they have a problem make them site exactly which Code section they say it doesn't comply with; because while it's a unique application and has a "that ain't right feel" to it, feelings aren't Code! (Feelings are like breasts: Only women and fat men have them :laughing:)
 
   / Generator in a outside building and powering the panel...
  • Thread Starter
#63  
An alternate to my (code compliant and really cheap) idea of wiring genny to sub panel and using existing subpanel feeder wiring to backfeed main panel (2- kirk key interlocks required, no new wiring required) would be to:
Pull 2 hots from genny through sub-panel, through conduit to main panel, to: a 50 amp double pole breaker located in the first 2 branch circuit slots of the main panel. This may take some rearranging of circuits there. You can then buy a cheap mechanical interlock that screws to the front of the main panel & prevents the main utility breaker from being on at the same time as the generator back-feed breaker.
That is my plan.

But back to your original question of sharing the neutral and ground when you do this, see posts #34 (&33). It all comes down to the local AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction / Inspector(?)). You're the test case we need! Good luck!:) I say go for it and if they have a problem make them site exactly which Code section they say it doesn't comply with; because while it's a unique application and has a "that ain't right feel" to it, feelings aren't Code!
Willdo.

I spoke to the plant electrician at work and he said that from a KISS perspective, he preferred the 2 new hots. He said that either should be code compliant (as long as you de-rated to 80% with the 2 new hots) but he would rather have a single interlock at the main panel.

Where would you order the Kirk Key setup from?

Aaron Z
 
   / Generator in a outside building and powering the panel... #64  
Wait, I assume you mean a panel generator interlock kit at the 1 main panel location. If you know the make/and type of your main panel, probably an electrical supplier (like the place an electrical contractor would go to) could help you look one up for the model you have. (It's going to depend if your main breaker is horizontal or vertical and the dimensions to the generator backfeed breaker.) Here's a link to a company that specializes in them:
Generator InterLock Kit | Safe Connection of Generators to Electrical Panels
 
   / Generator in a outside building and powering the panel... #65  
My inlaws have a barn on the outside of a paved U shaped driveway and a house on the inside of the driveway.
There is a conduit running to the barn that brings power out from the house, it has 3 #6 stranded wires in it for power, neutral and 4th wire for ground.
We are thinking of setting it up to run a generator out there (to reduce sound in the house), would I be able to share the same neutral and ground to feed back to the panel and just pull new wires for the power wires (so that I can install an interlock in the main panel)?
Currently, the generator I would use puts out less than 30 amps, so a 10/3 would be enough (and would fit in the conduit), but I would like to size the wires to run up to a 50 amp generator in the future and while there is space to put in either a 10/3 or 2 #6 wires, I don't think I could fit 3 #6 wires and a ground.

Aaron Z

Grounds could be used together but I think you will find that the neutrals can not be shared .. and as someone else mentioned "wires from two different power sources in the same conduit,, hmmm think not,,,

two sources in one conduit try this link
 
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   / Generator in a outside building and powering the panel... #66  
The "NEC" is a common base set of rules across all of The USA and Canada.Local jurisdictions can not remove code rules but they can and do add stricter rules locally.
I don't know why the more we quote electrical code that you feel threatened and more determined to wire it your own d&mmed way anyways because you can.
If you are so broke that you can't afford a proper switch and cable then just admit it. It's no shame to been going through tough time.
I can never understand how somebody like you that never studied electricity or worked as a trained professional in the electrical field. How can these people so stubbornly refuse to believe Electrical Engineers, Journeyman Electricians, linesmen, utility workers and Electrical Inspectors. How do they think they are qualified to dispute the NEC ?
 
   / Generator in a outside building and powering the panel... #68  
The "NEC" is a common base set of rules across all of The USA and Canada.Local jurisdictions can not remove code rules but they can and do add stricter rules locally.
I don't know why the more we quote electrical code that you feel threatened and more determined to wire it your own d&mmed way anyways because you can.
If you are so broke that you can't afford a proper switch and cable then just admit it. It's no shame to been going through tough time.
I can never understand how somebody like you that never studied electricity or worked as a trained professional in the electrical field. How can these people so stubbornly refuse to believe Electrical Engineers, Journeyman Electricians, linesmen, utility workers and Electrical Inspectors. How do they think they are qualified to dispute the NEC ?

You're making an arguement out of a discussion.... keep it civil. :cool:
 
   / Generator in a outside building and powering the panel...
  • Thread Starter
#69  
The "NEC" is a common base set of rules across all of The USA and Canada.Local jurisdictions can not remove code rules but they can and do add stricter rules locally.
I don't know why the more we quote electrical code that you feel threatened and more determined to wire it your own d&mmed way anyways because you can.
Threatened? No. Frustrated because you don't seem to be reading what I am writing, yes (see your repeated reference to putting a transfer switch on the pole despite my saying several times that the meter is mounted to the house facing the road and that I will not install a generator where it is visible from the road).
As for quoting code, so far, you have given your interpretation of the code. I dislike trusting someone's interpretation and prefer to go the source to read it myself.
The other reason I asked for the source is that I had a long conversation with the plant electrician at work (who IIRC is a master electrician and has been working as a commercial electrician for 30-40 years) and he didn't see any problem with pulling 2 new hots through the existing conduit to an interlock in the main panel, as long as I de-rated both sets of wires to 80% capacity. He also didn't see any problem with pulling another neutral/ground but said that it would be unnecessary.

If you are so broke that you can't afford a proper switch and cable then just admit it. It's no shame to been going through tough time.
Money to do it right the first time isn't a problem, just trying to find out what exactly the "right way" is and trying to avoid digging up 20' of paved driveway to put in a new conduit if its not required.

I can never understand how somebody like you that never studied electricity or worked as a trained professional in the electrical field. How can these people so stubbornly refuse to believe Electrical Engineers, Journeyman Electricians, linesmen, utility workers and Electrical Inspectors. How do they think they are qualified to dispute the NEC ?
You make a lot of assumptions. I worked for an electrician doing everything from wiring new 12,000SF houses (most of which had 2x200 amp panels to a 400 amp meter) to doing panel replacements on 700sf houses. Most of our work was high end remodels and I did a little of everything.
I know how to run the wires, how to size them, how to terminate them and have a healthy respect for electricity. My weakness is the theory and the non-logical stuff which people claim is code but cant show where it is in the code.
As for electrical inspectors, most of the ones around here know very little about what is code, they just know what is customarily done. An example: My neighbor put in a garage, he ran 12/2 to all the outlets, used 20 amp rated outlets and put them on 20 amp breakers. The inspector would not pass it until he swapped the 20 amp breakers for 15 amp breakers because "the breaker is there to protect the device that is plugged into the outlet"

This and a roll of 8/3 cab tire cable from the generator to the transfer switch.
Simple, reliable and anybody can connect it without worry of blowing something up or looking for a lost key.
TWB2012DR Panel/Link - Reliance Controls Corporation
The connection to the generator aside, you are advocating that I:
1. Re-wire the existing panel to split the neutrals and grounds
2. Have the meter pulled
3. Possibly replace the feeder wire from the meter base (depending if the current one will reach to the new panel)
4. Add in this panel
5. Install new 4 wire feeder from the new panel to the old panel
Lets say $400-500 for the panel, $200-300 for new feeder wire, permits, etc and a most of a days work to do the swap (not counting getting it inspected).
What do I end up with? A new main panel with a metal interlock to prevent the generator and the main breakers from being on at the same time and an old panel that is now a subpanel.
Why shouldn't I just buy an interlock which is designed for my panel (such as those sold by Generator InterLock Kit Manual Transfer Switch or one like GE PowerMark Gold Load Center/Generator Interlock Kit-THQLLX1 at The Home Depot that does exactly the same thing as the interlock on the Reliance panel, but costs under $150 and avoids all the work?
Can you explain why adding an interlock to the panel is a bad idea? I have no problem spending money to do things right, but I dislike spending money and time needlessly.

Aaron Z
 
   / Generator in a outside building and powering the panel... #70  
That 2nd one you linked to is only $44.00. Nice!
 

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