The "NEC" is a common base set of rules across all of The USA and Canada.Local jurisdictions can not remove code rules but they can and do add stricter rules locally.
I don't know why the more we quote electrical code that you feel threatened and more determined to wire it your own d&mmed way anyways because you can.
Threatened? No. Frustrated because you don't seem to be reading what I am writing, yes (see your repeated reference to putting a transfer switch on the pole despite my saying several times that the meter is mounted to the house facing the road and that I will not install a generator where it is visible from the road).
As for quoting code, so far, you have given your interpretation of the code. I dislike trusting someone's interpretation and prefer to go the source to read it myself.
The other reason I asked for the source is that I had a long conversation with the plant electrician at work (who IIRC is a master electrician and has been working as a commercial electrician for 30-40 years) and he didn't see any problem with pulling 2 new hots through the existing conduit to an interlock in the main panel, as long as I de-rated both sets of wires to 80% capacity. He also didn't see any problem with pulling another neutral/ground but said that it would be unnecessary.
If you are so broke that you can't afford a proper switch and cable then just admit it. It's no shame to been going through tough time.
Money to do it right the first time isn't a problem, just trying to find out what exactly the "right way" is and trying to avoid digging up 20' of paved driveway to put in a new conduit if its not required.
I can never understand how somebody like you that never studied electricity or worked as a trained professional in the electrical field. How can these people so stubbornly refuse to believe Electrical Engineers, Journeyman Electricians, linesmen, utility workers and Electrical Inspectors. How do they think they are qualified to dispute the NEC ?
You make a lot of assumptions. I worked for an electrician doing everything from wiring new 12,000SF houses (most of which had 2x200 amp panels to a 400 amp meter) to doing panel replacements on 700sf houses. Most of our work was high end remodels and I did a little of everything.
I know how to run the wires, how to size them, how to terminate them and have a healthy respect for electricity. My weakness is the theory and the non-logical stuff which people claim is code but cant show where it is in the code.
As for electrical inspectors, most of the ones around here know very little about what is code, they just know what is customarily done. An example: My neighbor put in a garage, he ran 12/2 to all the outlets, used 20 amp rated outlets and put them on 20 amp breakers. The inspector would not pass it until he swapped the 20 amp breakers for 15 amp breakers because "the breaker is there to protect the device that is plugged into the outlet"
This and a roll of 8/3 cab tire cable from the generator to the transfer switch.
Simple, reliable and anybody can connect it without worry of blowing something up or looking for a lost key.
TWB2012DR Panel/Link - Reliance Controls Corporation
The connection to the generator aside, you are advocating that I:
1. Re-wire the existing panel to split the neutrals and grounds
2. Have the meter pulled
3. Possibly replace the feeder wire from the meter base (depending if the current one will reach to the new panel)
4. Add in this panel
5. Install new 4 wire feeder from the new panel to the old panel
Lets say $400-500 for the panel, $200-300 for new feeder wire, permits, etc and a most of a days work to do the swap (not counting getting it inspected).
What do I end up with? A new main panel with a metal interlock to prevent the generator and the main breakers from being on at the same time and an old panel that is now a subpanel.
Why shouldn't I just buy an interlock which is designed for my panel (such as those sold by
Generator InterLock Kit Manual Transfer Switch or one like
GE PowerMark Gold Load Center/Generator Interlock Kit-THQLLX1 at The Home Depot that does exactly the same thing as the interlock on the Reliance panel, but costs under $150 and avoids all the work?
Can you explain why adding an interlock to the panel is a bad idea? I have no problem spending money to do things right, but I dislike spending money and time needlessly.
Aaron Z