Generator inlet plug install-need advice on wire size/type, etc...

[IHDiesel73L]

This is why I really love this site-more collective knowledge that you can shake a stick at! :thumbsup:

 

[tmajor]

I feel they are safe for humans, system and generator. The generators have a circuit breaker for their protection and the "generator breaker", which you install in the panel box, will give you another means of protection. The panel, wires, circuits will never be able to receive more than the limiting breakers, no matter what the load.

 

[wrooster]

:thumbsup:

My setup is a little bit different because I use n transfer switch external to the breaker panel, but the general implementation approach is the same as you are considering. My inlet receptacle is located in a detached workshop, and outside on the apron there I can run either a small Honda E2000i inverter-generator (120Vac only @ 2KW, but it sips gasoline) or a larger tractor PTO-powered generator head (120Vac/240Vac split-phase @ 10KW).

edited to add:
I took the above approach because, for me, it minimizes the amount of fuel I need to store. The problem with a large, direct-coupled gasoline generator is that it consumes many gallons of gas per day.

The little Honda EU2000i will run the refrigerator and a few other items for an entire day on about a gallon of gas. However, it won't run the 200' deep 240Vac well pump. So, I use the Honda for "convenience" power -- fridge, forced hot air fan heat, kitchen lights, etc.

When the need arises to shower or run heavier loads, I start up the tractor and swap cords. With this approach, I typically only need to run the 10KW capacity generator for a half hour a day; at that rate even the 5 gallon capacity tank on the little Kubota will last a week.

Wrooster

 

[tmajor]

These kits are available from the manufacture sites, and eBay @$105, however, like I said, they can be "special ordered" from Lowe's or H/D for about $55.

 

[tmajor]

Getting back to the OP's original question: You could "wire" your system for 50A., but currently use a 30A. breaker in the panel, with your current gen set. Then, if you get a larger gen set, you could replace the 30A breaker in the panel with a 50A.

 

[BobRip]

Getting back to the OP's original question: You could "wire" your system for 50A., but currently use a 30A. breaker in the panel, with your current gen set. Then, if you get a larger gen set, you could replace the 30A breaker in the panel with a 50A.

The breaker in the generator will protect it. Go ahead and use the 50 amp breaker now. It is just used as a disconnect at this point.

 

[tommu56]

Take a look at the link I posted above:

Generator InterLock Kit

Ive put several of them in and they are good.
I prefer the square D adaptors.

http://www.schneider-electric.us/documents/customers/retail-consumer/generator-panel.pdf

tom

 

[daybreak1998]

Howdy,
Interlock Kit Generator InterLock Kit
The cheapest and easist route is the interlock kit. You will need to look over your current panel, and see if they have a kit. They do not cover all ever made, but do have a lot. You will also need to make sure you have to full spaces. When its installed, you will probably move circuits around to make it fit since the dual pull breaker will need to be in the top most location. OR, you could update and put in a new panel which has a interlock kit available. The price might end up being cheaper than a transfer switch. With the interlock kit, you put whatever size generator breakers you want. Dual 30's=10awg, dual 50's=6awg. With the future in mind, you might as well use 6awg wire and 50amp breakers. Your current generator has its own breaker, so it is the weakest link, which trips first. When you have your larger generator, you are good to go. This is by far the best way with using your head. No extension cords, you just need to mind your usage. Obviously no cooking in the oven. Turn all things off and and flip on the hot water tank. Flip it off and run everything else. You control which circuits you want on or off.

Generator sub panel Pro/Tran | Products | Reliance Controls Corporation
Its ok, but not as convient as using your whole panel. Say its setup, and you need to have lights somewhere, well you might only have 6 circuits in the sub panel. Yes, it works for some, but, having access to your whole panel is the way to go.

Generlink (depends on your utility) http://www.generlink.com
This is a special collar which is fitted behind your meter. It has a cost, but again, it gives you full access to your panel. The collar has a special plug which you connect your generator cord too. My utility here installed one in about 10 minutes. I have the 30amp variety, special cord with 30 amp twistlock for generator end. No interlock, no permit, no wire, no drilling, no conduit, done.

Transfer switch Transfer Switches for Generators | Northern Tool + Equipment
The more expensive approach. It works well, but, there are cheaper ways. The transfer switch itself is pricey, then you will still have to call your utility to have them pull the meter, electrician's time, and permit.

Special Transfer switch at meter PSP Products > Products
I have a special 200amp transfer switch at a central farm distibution 400amp service. This is similar to the generlink, but larger. Dual 350amp anderson connector full power plug for a 30k pto generator. Same as above, I use my panels to shut off circuits if I want.

The above links are only general examples, use whatever company you want. Just factor in all the cost associated with it, and do it correctly. Stay safe. and keep the linesmen alive

 

[IHDiesel73L]

With the future in mind, you might as well use 6awg wire and 50amp breakers.

Does anyone know whether I should be using solid or stranded wire or if it makes a difference in terms of code?

 

[grsthegreat]

Does anyone know whether I should be using solid or stranded wire or if it makes a difference in terms of code?

both rated the same, but more than likely youll only find stranded #6 wires. Solid #6 are quite unyielding to work with.