geothermal pond loop?

   / geothermal pond loop? #31  
i have looked into closed pond loop, well closed loop where pipes are further in cased in concrete and other material.

all the piping / hose = a large DIY heat exchanger with ground and/or water.

for ponds. i would have second thoughts more so if there are fish in it. and if pond is shallow = bigger problem. during winter. the pond bottom is warmer, while surface water = colder. and in summer pond bottom is colder, while surface water is warmer.

when folks say 15' deep i can honestly believe that would be needed. so as not to kill the fish out, yet still have a functioning loop setup. or rather i should say, have more healthy fish due to them not freezing to death, or per say sweating to death and being deep fried.

its not about pond freezing solid or boiling. but the extra degrees warmer or cooler that could make difference to the fish. and having a healthy fish population.

as far as heating and cooling go for your house on other hand. that is a different story.

======================
knowing how fishing goes, with anchors, lures, stuff being dropped into lake / pond by accident. if it were me, i would be more likely to put at least some dirt over a pond loop setup. mainly to protect it. both from humans, but also wildlife from turning over a pipe and getting it into a bind with a kink in it.

some things that do catch me eye, are these long loops, getting placed deep, but then the last 100 feet or so to house. end up being buried rather shallow. and it doesn't make sense to me. due to potential heat loss / cooling loss.

and on another note, is pipe sizing. is another thing on these long loops. i can understand cost side vs going with a little bigger size pipe. but paying for a bigger size horse power pump to push water through the system.

and for the horizontal loops. i can understand reason for how they criss cross the loops as they lay them down into the trenches. but at times i wonder. if paying for a longer trench and use same amount of pipe but just stretching the criss crossing of the pipes out further might have a better longer effect.

with closed loop vs open loop setups. i think i would prefer to go with a closed loop, and and a little bit of antifreeze (not sure correct naming is) to possibly obtain better heat capacity being absorbed in the loops (perhaps the old thinker, has forgtten things and mixed up some mumbo jumbo).

my only concern about the antifreeze is loops were placed into a pond that didn't have any dirt over them. but just sunk to the bottom of the lake.

on another note: the loops for ponds were they just sank to the bottom. and a few coils are fastened directly together. seems like a cheap way to do things, but i would think you would also loose capacity. and require more length of hose. vs if you drained the pond/lake down. and did something like horizontal runs do. with the criss crossing of the loops. or perhaps using rebar to fasten the loops so the criss crossing of the loops are further apart per loop.
 
   / geothermal pond loop? #32  
Boy Boggen you sure outlined my concerns as well. I have trout in my pond for one and I want to keep the Eco system intact. The trout eat larva and with the birds frogs etc. we have very little bug problems here at all. I don't want to fiddle with that. I can as easily run pipes in my front field and the other concern I have is shallow pipes running from the pond.
What about loops? I don't like the idea of plastic pipe overlaying plastic pipe. Seems to me that this might be a recipe for crimping problems as the ground moves.

Rob
 
   / geothermal pond loop? #33  
Boy Boggen you sure outlined my concerns as well. I have trout in my pond for one and I want to keep the Eco system intact. The trout eat larva and with the birds frogs etc. we have very little bug problems here at all. I don't want to fiddle with that. I can as easily run pipes in my front field and the other concern I have is shallow pipes running from the pond.
What about loops? I don't like the idea of plastic pipe overlaying plastic pipe. Seems to me that this might be a recipe for crimping problems as the ground moves.

Rob
horizontal loops and pond loops. all the hose / pipe should be placed below the frost line. so there should be little if any movement. well i guess exception for earthquake. or very large semi weighted down or like. for me i doubt that would be concerned due to my frost line is approx 3.5 to 4 feet deep. but for others were its only like 18 inches or like. i think i would prefer the piping deeper.

i also should state the fill dirt going back in would settle. but i would assume when you put the dirt back in, on horizontal criss cross loops. you would compact as you go. so settling would be less of an issue. along with using clean fill dirt, that didn't have any rocks or roots or any other sharp objects in it. to help protect the hose/pipe. the initial i don't know say 6" to 12" of fill over the pipes would be my initial main concern, then anything over that. i would most likely not care to much about (within reason)

deeper pipe = more how do i want to say it. earth capacity that is at a constant temperature. vs having pipe up near the surface of the ground. were there could be more fluctuations of the temperature of the ground.

ya don't need to dig to china and back. but to me for them horizontal loops. getting them deep enough. and below the frost line would be a big doing.

all in all criss crossing in a horizontal doing, seems to make good sense to me. easier to dig out, easier to unroll the hose. and if you end up with to much hose or to little. you can undo a loop here or there or resize a little bit. and pickup or loose the slack you need for the connections.

there be one exception. trying to make the coils in the loop way to tight. i would think larger size coils within a horzontal trench. would allow the hose / pipe material to last longer. and at same time reduce the needed size water pump. to push water through the house ((pump sizing goes back to friction loss / pressure loss / head of water less))

ok 2 exceptions having horizontal loops. running the pipe work UP then back down. and air forming within the pipe run. causing reduce flow of water. if me would try to make it so. house is the highest spot. and all hose runs down hill. exception for the return portion of the pipe going back to house. so any air that might get in pipe can be removed inside the home.
 
   / geothermal pond loop? #34  
Our loops are at least six feet deep (underground), so there's no movement there. The excavation folks used a sifter bucket to fill the first foot or so on top of the exposed pipe, to keep any larger rock away from it.

The lines were pressurised while we were backfilling, so any break would have been immediately visible on the gauge.

The loops were made on a table made from 4x8 sheets of plywood end to end, with 2x4's screwed to the edges to make a shallow trough. The loops were laid in place, then tie-wrapped to each other. The whole thing rolled up into a big "ball" for easy transport.

Electro-fusion couplings seals the ends of the loops together, and the ends terminate in manifolds inside the house.

I've got lots of pics, any specifics I can try to find.

Sean
 

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   / geothermal pond loop? #35  
Thanks Chilly,
I just spoke to a man who sells the heat pumps. He was nice enough to give me some good time and answered many questions. He's been using a well-dump system for the last 30 years and my well will work with that system. Not sure that I want to do a dump even though I have 20+ gallons per minute flow, I like the idea of running it back to the aquifer. The easiest set up is the dump though and it's very efficient at 175 feet down it's just about right for my 2 ton needs. The dump means I'll be putting about 180 gallons an hour into the dry well, probably a lot less though as the pump will probably only run 15 minutes per hour on most days. Let's see, that comes out to 180/4 or 45 gph. I'll have to think about it.
Rob
 
   / geothermal pond loop? #36  
Wet clay is good, wet anything is better than dry anything.
There is a geo system going in across the road from me, on a new house. It was all shale where they dug. I know one of the installers, gonna ask if they put anything around the pipe before they dumped the shale on top.
 
   / geothermal pond loop? #37  
Your best bet is a GOOD installer who has done many others. Our pond loop is not really as deep as they recommend, but it has mostly sunk into the mud and for the past three years has been great. The loop is about 1000' long (total length) and tied to 3/8" re-bar to make it sink.
The installer left me some of the leftover pipe (trimmings) which I tried to use for a short repair on another pvc job. That stuff is TOUGH. I finally gave up, went to town and bought 6' of regular pvc.
When the pipe was laid out on the lawn, prior to charging it my 4300JD happened to slowly roll over it. (hopped off and forgot to drop the bucket/anchor) I figured big bucks to replace the flattened section but we couldn't even tell where the tires hit it.
 
   / geothermal pond loop? #38  
Your best bet is a GOOD installer who has done many others. Our pond loop is not really as deep as they recommend, but it has mostly sunk into the mud and for the past three years has been great. The loop is about 1000' long (total length) and tied to 3/8" re-bar to make it sink.
The installer left me some of the leftover pipe (trimmings) which I tried to use for a short repair on another pvc job. That stuff is TOUGH. I finally gave up, went to town and bought 6' of regular pvc.
When the pipe was laid out on the lawn, prior to charging it my 4300JD happened to slowly roll over it. (hopped off and forgot to drop the bucket/anchor) I figured big bucks to replace the flattened section but we couldn't even tell where the tires hit it.

I have several springs (over 6) in my pond, I'm going to measure some water temps this week. How deep is your pond?
 
   / geothermal pond loop? #39  
Our house has a geo with a pond loop. The unit is 5 ton and the loop has 5 "fluffed" coils 500' each. Our pond was almost empty the first winter and half of the coils were sticking above the ice. The inlet temperature to the geo was below freezing point but the heating still worked fine. We heat about 3800 sqft and our heating bill is less than $100 during the coldest month of the year.

The guy who installed my system also installs horizontal loops with virtually no digging. They use a directional drill powered by drilling polymer which is then discharged to the bore. The drill is a steel pipe with a hydraulic motor powering the drilling head that is pushed under ground. The trajectory is controlled such a way that it exit ground at desired place. Then they remove the the drilling head and hook up to it two parallel plastic pipes connected together on the far end and pull them back underground. The polymer provides lubrication while the pipes are pulled in and thermal contact with the ground later on. That way they dig only relatively small hole where all the loops are connected together.
 
   / geothermal pond loop? #40  
I concerned about geo in a relatively small pond (< 1/3 acre). I don't want to see trout floating to the surface.

Rob
 

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