Getting a Yanmar repaired

[California]

Clearly there isn't space for a larger alternator in that location.

Could you install a much longer belt and bracket, and move the replacement alternator out beyond that hose?

 

[Tom_Veatch]

Clearly there isn't space for a larger alternator in that location.

Could you install a much longer belt and bracket, and move the replacement alternator out beyond that hose?

I'm thinking that's a possibility. I'm not sure how much outboard clearance there is before interfering with the cowling. Plus, there looks to be a straight section of the hose before the radius begins. Perhaps an inch or so can be trimmed off the inboard ends to gain a little clearance.

It would be nice to find a small, compact, internally regulated alternator that would fit the existing envelope. Really don't need much output since I don't run a multi-kilowatt sound system or kazillion watt lighting. I suspect something on the order of 15-25 amps would be more than enough. But, a big alternator along with an inverter would be nice for running some small power tools out in the field. That's a low priority, 'though.

You know, I'm almost hoping this new regulator fails and gives me an excuse to make the conversion. Weird, I know. I must have a masochistic streak in there somewhere.

 

[tony123]

I just looked at it. There is almost no flexability width wise for the alternator. However, there is about an inch and a half to 2" available to stick out further before hitting the cowling.

Hey Tom. Maybe I can tempt you into your sadist tendencies? I can take your used regulator off your hands (purchase of course ) and that could give you some of the funds towards trying a new alternator.

Strangest thing. I was checking the voltage at the battery today and it read 26.5 with engine off. And last night it sounded weak when I last started. Doesn't make sense.

 

[Tom_Veatch]

I just looked at it. There is almost no flexibility width wise for the alternator. However, there is about an inch and a half to 2" available to stick out further before hitting the cowling.

Yeah, an alternator longer than about 2.5" from belt centerline to aft face simply ain't going in there.

Tonight, I was putting up my tools from pouring a small concrete slab (speaking of masochistic tendencies) and looked around the tractor's engine compartment. Looks like the alternator could be relocated outboard a couple of inches and raised a couple of inches or so and it might clear the coolant hose. Especially if the hose could be shortened an inch or so. That would give about 5" aft of the belt centerline before interference with the fuel lines. Fabricating and rerouting new fuel lines could gain a little more.

The only thing that worries me about that is it would reduce the belt wrap around the fan/water pump pulley to somewhere around 45-60 degrees. That might be enough but would bear watching.

Hey Tom. Maybe I can tempt you into your sadist tendencies? I can take your used regulator off your hands (purchase of course ) and that could give you some of the funds towards trying a new alternator.

I'm not ready to pull the trigger on a conversion, yet. I can't say just when, or even if I'll do it or not. This regulator may outlast me or it may shoot craps tomorrow. So, if you intend to replace your's, don't count on getting a used one from me. I thank you for the offer, and I'd certainly take you up on it if I'd definitely decided to do a conversion. Interesting thing is that I saw a conversion kit on eBay that was touted as being for the same engine as in my Yanmar, but did not list my model. I may contact the guy and see what that kit contains.

Strangest thing. I was checking the voltage at the battery today and it read 26.5 with engine off. And last night it sounded weak when I last started. Doesn't make sense.
.

I completely agree. That voltage doesn't make sense. It's more than double what the battery is capable of even at full charge.

As I recall, you were reporting an intermittent charging light. Is that still the case, or has it progressed to a light on continuously?

 

[tony123]

It's still intermittant. However, yesterday it almost never went off. Today it pretty consistantly went off above 1500rpm.

I'm thinking now that I may just milk this system out for as much as I can. Apparently I can go several weeks of use without a problem, so I may just deal with it. Put it on a charge about every second week and call it a day.

When I grow tired of that, I can spend the $

 

[Tom_Veatch]

...I'm thinking now that I may just milk this system out for as much as I can. Apparently I can go several weeks of use without a problem, so I may just deal with it. Put it on a charge about every second week and call it a day. ...

Sounds like a plan!

You might think about putting it on a trickle charge (1 or 2 amp charge rate) between uses to keep the battery topped off. And maybe a piece of tape over the charge light so it doesn't annoy you

Intermittent problems are a real pain to diagnose and fix. This sounds like you may have a bad/intermittent connection or broken wire somewhere in the circuit that makes/breaks due to vibration.

If it was me, I wouldn't spend the money for a new regulator unless it fails hard, and due to the intermittent nature of the problem I'm not totally convinced that your's has failed. I would check and clean all the connectors at the alternator and regulator, the battery terminals, and on two wires connecting to the starter.

Note, the following is specific to my tractor and I'm assuming it's the same as your's. There is one heavy gauge wire secured by a nut on the starter. That heavy wire runs forward to the positive terminal on the battery and carries power for the starter motor. The same nut secures a ring terminal attached to a lighter (10 ga?) wire that runs back through a couple of connectors into the wiring harness. The wire then exits the harness to attach to one of the pins in the 6 terminal gang connector off the regulator. That lighter gauge wire carries charging current from the regulator to the battery via it's connection to the heavy gauge wire at the starter motor. I'd take particular care to be sure that lighter gauge wire makes good contact at the starter and has no breaks or bad connections all the way from starter to regulator.

You may find a bad/dirty connection that, when fixed/cleaned, cures your problem. You may not. Like I said, intermittent problems are a royal pain in the donkey to find and fix.

BTW, we've gotten so far away from the original purpose of this thread that it might be a good idea to begin a new thread if this goes much further.

 

[tony123]

oops. wasn't using my meter right. I was on AC not DC side. Battery does read 12.2v today. I told you I was new to meters.

 

[California]

oops. wasn't using my meter right. I was on AC not DC side. Battery does read 12.2v today. I told you I was new to meters.

I would put a trickle charger on that battery overnight to bring it back above 12.6 volts. Storage while partially discharged will ruin a battery.

(Don't ask me how I know ).