Getting back into hay

   / Getting back into hay #11  
Don't know what type of grass it is but 96 squares is about equivalent to 8 round rolls down here where I am and if it's only 1 acre that's a pretty good yield.
My neighbor has purchased/unrolled rd bales from me in the past & he averages 17 small sq balers from my 4X5.5 rd bales so 96 small sq bales are equivalent to 5.6 of my rd bales that I think weight around 1000#s. My JD 467 rd baler yesterday afternoon just surpassed 29,000 bales by 51 bales
 

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   / Getting back into hay #12  
If you take just one cutting and bush hog the second than you don't need any fertilizer.
I know more than a few people taking this approach with fuel prices this high.
Take one cutting and sell. Then do the math on the gross profit of the 2nd cutting minus the fertilizer. For some, it’s not worth the remainder to do a 2nd cutting.
 
   / Getting back into hay #13  
I think my baler is through baling this year unless we receive some rain this Fall
 
   / Getting back into hay #14  
My neighbor has purchased/unrolled rd bales from me in the past & he averages 17 small sq balers from my 4X5.5 rd bales so 96 small sq bales are equivalent to 5.6 of my rd bales that I think weight around 1000#s. My JD 467 rd baler yesterday afternoon just surpassed 29,000 bales by 51 bales
Around here most everyone puts up 54" rolls , so that is what I was basing 12 squares off of, I could easily see how you could get 5 more as big as your rolls are, 29,000+ rolls is quite impressive , It probably means you do regular maintenance and use more than a nickel's worth of grease per year. 😁
 
   / Getting back into hay #15  
I know more than a few people taking this approach with fuel prices this high.
Take one cutting and sell. Then do the math on the gross profit of the 2nd cutting minus the fertilizer. For some, it’s not worth the remainder to do a 2nd cutting.
Just fertilized for the second time this year 21-0-21 was $ 814.00 per ton , bright side is after I spread it yesterday we got about 1/4" of rain to soak it in last night, so I am thankful, the only thing I have left to do is put out some herbicide to kill some vasie grass and native crabgrass that I see has popped up.
 
   / Getting back into hay #16  
I know more than a few people taking this approach with fuel prices this high.
Take one cutting and sell. Then do the math on the gross profit of the 2nd cutting minus the fertilizer. For some, it’s not worth the remainder to do a 2nd cutting.

Maybe. Has the soil ever been tested though? Is it deficient in something based on the type of soil or where it is? For someone just getting back into it I would recommend a soil test. In TX the county/state pays for it. What do you think?
 
   / Getting back into hay #17  
If you take just one cutting and bush hog the second than you don't need any fertilizer.
Not entirely correct but I'm not gonna challenge it except to say, to a soil test and then see what is required and most soil tests are free with your local government entity
 
   / Getting back into hay #18  
Around here most everyone puts up 54" rolls , so that is what I was basing 12 squares off of, I could easily see how you could get 5 more as big as your rolls are, 29,000+ rolls is quite impressive , It probably means you do regular maintenance and use more than a nickel's worth of grease per year. 😁
Yes sir grease gun gets regular use. M previous JD 467 baler(twine only) had 30,000 bales on monitor when I traded for present baler in 2007. Nothing aggravated me more back when I was buying/selling hay was for someone to advertise 4X5 rd bales that on inspection weren't even close to 60 INCHES TALL. My making 66'' tall bales accentuates my thinking because smaller diameter rd bales resemble doughnut holes in my mind. LOL
 
   / Getting back into hay #19  
Not entirely correct but I'm not gonna challenge it except to say, to a soil test and then see what is required and most soil tests are free with your local government entity
Yes I agree with you, get a soil test as well and I would only put down 1/2 of what they recommend.
 
   / Getting back into hay #20  
You'll probably need potash and boron more than nitrogen anyway.

Only way to determine that is a soil test and your local co-op will have the equipment and required amendments available.... and they may do the soil testing for zip if you ask them.
 

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