Egon
Epic Contributor
Dig some test holes.
For seeding rates do a goggle search for your area. Lots of hits.
Getting cleared area ready to plant & HP recommendations...
- Thread starter e.myers
- Start date
- Views: 6338
Dig some test holes.
For seeding rates do a goggle search for your area. Lots of hits.
e.myers,
It sounds like you are not sure what you want, and don't have time to come up with a perfect plan. So, I agree with your idea of disking, throwing on some rye, and disking again. It will grow, and also give your soil a chance to settle. If you are up north, you could frost seed clover on top of the rye in January or Feb. I frost seed clover with good results. The clover will germinate and slowly grow under the rye when the temps warm up, and when you mow the dry rye in the late spring the clover will really take off. Here's a link to a great seed manual. http://ccmachinery.com/public_html/images/SeedManual.pdf
It will help you with seeding rates and plant descriptions, benefits, etc. They say rye should be seeded at 2 -3 bushels per acre (120-180lbs).
I also agree that the soil will open up as the roots decay. Unless you are looking for a flat lawn and not a field, I would dress it up the best you can with a disk and use the plan above. You can always rework it all in a year or two if it is not as you would like.
It sounds like you are not sure what you want, and don't have time to come up with a perfect plan. So, I agree with your idea of disking, throwing on some rye, and disking again. It will grow, and also give your soil a chance to settle. If you are up north, you could frost seed clover on top of the rye in January or Feb. I frost seed clover with good results. The clover will germinate and slowly grow under the rye when the temps warm up, and when you mow the dry rye in the late spring the clover will really take off. Here's a link to a great seed manual. http://ccmachinery.com/public_html/images/SeedManual.pdf
It will help you with seeding rates and plant descriptions, benefits, etc. They say rye should be seeded at 2 -3 bushels per acre (120-180lbs).
I also agree that the soil will open up as the roots decay. Unless you are looking for a flat lawn and not a field, I would dress it up the best you can with a disk and use the plan above. You can always rework it all in a year or two if it is not as you would like.
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
I think this whole stump thing is being blown out of proportion. An excavator dug out the stumps and buried them as I understand. The concern is whether he missed a few and will running over them damage the rototiller. The newest approach is to pull the scarifier attachment through the ground to see if any are found. To be specific we are looking for pine stumps and roots for the most part.
When tilling with my 4520 and 673 tiller set all the way down I set the cruise speed to .5 mph (1/2 miles per hour) and watch ahead of me for any apparent obstructions. Since you can't see below the surface you may still hit something but since it is a forward rotation tiller it simply bounces the tiller up and down a few times and we keep going. That is about all that happens, the tiller does not self distruct. The vast majority of the time you are traveling along at a very slow pace tilling the ground up and pulverizing everything in its wake. Been there done that.
With the addition of the ripper pictured I have to ask how fast are you going to pull searching for stumps? Hanging up on a large stump may give you a real jolt when you least expect it and may tear up your tractor too if traveling too fast.
I think the big thing to understand here is how the impact forces are released when you hit something like a stump or large rock. With a forward tine tiller the forces on impacting the stump will make it bounce up a few inches and the hitch on the tractor is free to allow this to happen. When a ripper on a small tractor impacts a stump it hangs up on it and brings you to a sudden stop. I have to ask all of you which scenario sounds more damaging and expensive?
Steve
When tilling with my 4520 and 673 tiller set all the way down I set the cruise speed to .5 mph (1/2 miles per hour) and watch ahead of me for any apparent obstructions. Since you can't see below the surface you may still hit something but since it is a forward rotation tiller it simply bounces the tiller up and down a few times and we keep going. That is about all that happens, the tiller does not self distruct. The vast majority of the time you are traveling along at a very slow pace tilling the ground up and pulverizing everything in its wake. Been there done that.
With the addition of the ripper pictured I have to ask how fast are you going to pull searching for stumps? Hanging up on a large stump may give you a real jolt when you least expect it and may tear up your tractor too if traveling too fast.
I think the big thing to understand here is how the impact forces are released when you hit something like a stump or large rock. With a forward tine tiller the forces on impacting the stump will make it bounce up a few inches and the hitch on the tractor is free to allow this to happen. When a ripper on a small tractor impacts a stump it hangs up on it and brings you to a sudden stop. I have to ask all of you which scenario sounds more damaging and expensive?
Steve
Egon/Ford/Jenk-
Seed Manual Copied to desktop. Looks very informative. Thanks!
Yeah, too little time to plan for this year. I ALWAYS seem to be exactly 2 weeks behind the curve when it comes to farming related things. Start planning too late even though I think I'm way ahead. Have GOT to get a better handle on this. I think the tractor will actaully make a difference.
Sounds like I'm hearing from everyone that I may not need the scarifier. Haven't got pricing yet, but figured it couldn't be too much for THAT.
I'm eventually going to get some clover down. Your plan sounds great and will buy me some time.
I understand the concerns with the scarifier and getting hung up on a stump. I was thinking of going very slowly (whatever that means). Even thinking that MAYBE the scarifier could pull the PINE stump... but don't know. Might not be an abrupt stop, but it might. Good points regardless.
That being said, once I know the stumps are all removed and I have the ground tilled up or ripped up or whatever for the first time, wouldn't I be able go move across my land more quickly with the ripper vs the tiller? I think for MX purposes, the ripper would be fine as long as I was dragging a land plane behind it, once I get everything initially prepared.
Bottom line is IF it's not going to have the capability of getting further into the ground than my tiller, and/or it's not going to be faster than tilling (don't think discing will get as far down as tilling), then it may be an expense I don't need after all.
Any more thoughts?
Seed Manual Copied to desktop. Looks very informative. Thanks!
Yeah, too little time to plan for this year. I ALWAYS seem to be exactly 2 weeks behind the curve when it comes to farming related things. Start planning too late even though I think I'm way ahead. Have GOT to get a better handle on this. I think the tractor will actaully make a difference.
Sounds like I'm hearing from everyone that I may not need the scarifier. Haven't got pricing yet, but figured it couldn't be too much for THAT.
I'm eventually going to get some clover down. Your plan sounds great and will buy me some time.
I understand the concerns with the scarifier and getting hung up on a stump. I was thinking of going very slowly (whatever that means). Even thinking that MAYBE the scarifier could pull the PINE stump... but don't know. Might not be an abrupt stop, but it might. Good points regardless.
That being said, once I know the stumps are all removed and I have the ground tilled up or ripped up or whatever for the first time, wouldn't I be able go move across my land more quickly with the ripper vs the tiller? I think for MX purposes, the ripper would be fine as long as I was dragging a land plane behind it, once I get everything initially prepared.
Bottom line is IF it's not going to have the capability of getting further into the ground than my tiller, and/or it's not going to be faster than tilling (don't think discing will get as far down as tilling), then it may be an expense I don't need after all.
Any more thoughts?
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
e.myers,
Pine is a softwood just till the place with your new tiller and get a landscape rake to clean up whatever is on top after that. I bought a digital camera today so I will try to figure out how to post some pictures to give you some idea of what the tillers are capable of and what the landplane will do for you. Give me a day or so to get this figured out.
Steve
Pine is a softwood just till the place with your new tiller and get a landscape rake to clean up whatever is on top after that. I bought a digital camera today so I will try to figure out how to post some pictures to give you some idea of what the tillers are capable of and what the landplane will do for you. Give me a day or so to get this figured out.
Steve
Thanks Steve.
Decided to forgo the scarifier for now. See if I need it.
Once the land is cleared, and I've tilled it, do you think the scarifier would be quicker to use (more ground speed) than the tiller? Would it get deeper than the tiller?
Still have time to add it to the contract.
Eddie
Decided to forgo the scarifier for now. See if I need it.
Once the land is cleared, and I've tilled it, do you think the scarifier would be quicker to use (more ground speed) than the tiller? Would it get deeper than the tiller?
Still have time to add it to the contract.
Eddie
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
I think you can pass on it since it is an inexpensive item.
As I mentioned before tractor, tiller, landscape rake, 3 pt harrow, 3 pt landplane and small pull behind seeder (available at Lowes or Home Depot about $250. These will work the open acreage for planting and along with your existing boxblade will work the track.
A good landplane is something you may want to add since this will run about $1600 to $2000. I built my own since I have good welding equipment for about $900 (very heavy duty with two 8' bolt on grader blades).
As another poster mentioned, if you can find some cheap section harrows these will work for now, hard to buy everything at once I understand.
I suggested on the other thread to get the heavy duty tiller, it will work with your new tractor as well as a larger tractor later on, the other implements will also.
Steve
As I mentioned before tractor, tiller, landscape rake, 3 pt harrow, 3 pt landplane and small pull behind seeder (available at Lowes or Home Depot about $250. These will work the open acreage for planting and along with your existing boxblade will work the track.
A good landplane is something you may want to add since this will run about $1600 to $2000. I built my own since I have good welding equipment for about $900 (very heavy duty with two 8' bolt on grader blades).
As another poster mentioned, if you can find some cheap section harrows these will work for now, hard to buy everything at once I understand.
I suggested on the other thread to get the heavy duty tiller, it will work with your new tractor as well as a larger tractor later on, the other implements will also.
Steve
Cover Crop Experts....
Roam RDB, Ford 850, Rambler....
Weatherman lied.
Spent all weekend tilling 5 acres and got a cereal rye/crimson clover mix broadcast at a relatively high rate per acre at dark last night. Intended to wake up and use a drag harrow on the seed to lightly cover it.
Well, lo and behold, the bottom fell out this morning and continued all day.... dog food bowls had about 3 inches in them!
Anyway, my field is pretty much a "swamp" now (little standing water but muddy) so little hope of getting tractor in there for the next day or so.
I walked it today and the seed still seems to be relatively in place, but it's definitely on the surface.
Combination Sand, Clay and Sand Loam.
What's gonna happen? What should I do next? Pray?
I'm pm'ing all of you too.
Roam RDB, Ford 850, Rambler....
Weatherman lied.
Spent all weekend tilling 5 acres and got a cereal rye/crimson clover mix broadcast at a relatively high rate per acre at dark last night. Intended to wake up and use a drag harrow on the seed to lightly cover it.
Well, lo and behold, the bottom fell out this morning and continued all day.... dog food bowls had about 3 inches in them!
Anyway, my field is pretty much a "swamp" now (little standing water but muddy) so little hope of getting tractor in there for the next day or so.
I walked it today and the seed still seems to be relatively in place, but it's definitely on the surface.
Combination Sand, Clay and Sand Loam.
What's gonna happen? What should I do next? Pray?
I'm pm'ing all of you too.
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
I would let it dry out enough that you can drive over it with an atv or any high flotation tires and pull a harrow or better yet a roller across it. I harrowed my seed in and then rolled it to press the dirt in contact with the seed. You don't want to bury the seed, you just want to cover it about 1/4" or so.
The last thing you want is to drive on it when it is still muddy making ruts in your new field.
Steve
The last thing you want is to drive on it when it is still muddy making ruts in your new field.
Steve
