Getting started?

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue">How do I check for proper levels when refilling? Crankcase is obvious, but is there a dipstick for other components? I would assume there is on the tranny, but how do I know if I have right amount on front and rear diff? Also, someone mentioned that hydraulic fluid will vary from manual if I have a front loader which I do. I assume large bolt above PTO spine with red paint is where I fill with AW32 hydraulic fluid. There is a small threaded piece with a hook on it in center of this bolt, but no dipstick attatched. Do I fill to top of this threaded hole? </font>

Hey Mantis,

You should have a dipstick for the engine, transmission, front drive axle, Hydralic reservoir. The dip stick for the hydralic reservoir is pretty much close to, if not identical to the front axle dip stick, but the length may vary though.

I checked the creeper gear resevoir and the tranfer gear by leavingout the drain plug while putting in the new oil, till oil starts to drain out. Thebest way though is totake off thecover on the creeper gear reservoir to look see.

Don't forget the fuel pump oil.

Get your tractors running &
Have a nice day,
Jo /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[RonMar]

filler/dipstick/airvent should be parts 50-54 in this picture. http://johnstractor.homestead.com/files/HydPowerLift.jpg
That "Hook" is a air vent pipe to allow air to flow in/out as the fluid level changes in the tank. If you unscrew that fitting, you should find a dipstick connected to the bottom. The steering cylinder and FEL cylinders are dual acting so they return nearly the same ammount of fluid as they use when they are cycled. The FEL does contain a bit more fluid in full up position with bucket fully dumped than in full down position with the bucket fully rolled back, the difference is equal to the length and diameter of the exposed pushrods of the cylinders. In the case of Coldwaters loader, 1.125" dia X 16" X 3 rods = roughly 48 CU. IN. or 26 fluid OZ more in the tank when the FEL is lowered/bucket rolled back. The 3point is a single acting cylinder so when the 3point goes up, the resovoir level goes down and vis versa. I am guessing the hydraulic fluid level is measured with the 3point and FEL in the full lowered position. That should place the resovoir at it's highest fluid level. This dipstick, like the transmission dipstick is measured from the fully unscrewed point(just setting in the hole).

I made mention of needing more hydraulic fluid than was specified if you do a COMPLETE fluid changeout. What I was refering to was if you choose to drain ALL the fluid out of the FEL cylinders when you change the fluid in the tank. This process involves mechanically supporting and cycling the cylinders with hose fittings removed(best done with a forklift or another FEL or with the cylinders removed from the FEL). This can be an involved and POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS process.

What happens to an unsupported FEL in the raised position when you remove the UP/Raise hydraulic fitting? It comes down really fast blowing high velocity fluid out of the fitting that your wrench was connected to a moment before the last thread let go while being loosened!

The more common process, done with all the hydraulics lowered, is to drain and refill the resovoir. Once done, there is still old fluid in the cylinders and plumbing so you start up the engine and repeatedly full cycle all the hydraulics on the steering, loader and 3point. This returns the old fluid to the tank and mixes the old and new fluid in the system. Then you shutdown and do another tank drain and refill. You then startup and cycle all the system again which further dilutes the old fluid with the new. You will not get ALL the old oil out this way but 2 oil changes will get the majority of it. This of course requires twice the specified ammount of replacement fluid.

 

[mantis166]

Thank you all for further clarification. I'll let you know how it goes. Where is the mentioned fuel pump and what oil do I use there? Alos, I assume there is no danger flushing crankcase with kerosene as sugested by Greg. It seems so much more flammable and to have less viscosity than oil. But I guess it is only for a little while and no open flames inside engine. I bet my questions are funny to those who know engines, but I never really learned mechanics. Funny thing is that I sell cars for a living. Scary Huh?

 

[RonMar]

The fuel/injector pump takes up most of the left side of the engine. Here is a link to the injector pump oil change procedure on John's Jinma site. http://johnstractor.homestead.com/InjectorPump.html

Further up, on the first page of this discussion, Greg G posted a link to a discussion on lubricants and his preferences.
from what I have read, the general consensus for the injector pump is 30wt Non-detergent motor oil or air compressor oil(which is also 30WT). Some however say to use the same oil that you are using in the engine. I do not agree with this. In my experience, diesel rated lube oil is high detergent, designed to get the engine deposits broken up and moved to the oil filter. Since the injector pump is its own non circulating oil system and dosn't have a oil filter, I would go with the compressor/non detergent oil that is intended for this type application.

 

[mantis166]

Hope I am not wearing patience thin with 'dumb' questions. I'll do my best to help others after I get it figured out. Trying to familiarize myself before I start and missing few pieces of info. Crankcase is obvious so will start there. On front Diff., I see three drain plugs as Greg mentioned. Only one fill point with dipstick on left side. Does the oil flow free between these three sections so I can fill one place and take care of all three places I drained?
Found two bolts that look like drains on underside of rear diff. under hydraulic reservoir I assume is to drain rear diff. How do I refill this reservoir? Can't find a fill place so far.
Fill plug on tranny is clearly marked with red paint and dip stick. Can't find the drain for tranny. Greg said on left vertical face on his old one, but can't find it on my 284.
Found large drain for creeper above drive line like Greg said, but can't find fill for creeper. Do y0ou have to remove creeper cover? I assume that oil does not flow from tranny transfer to creeper. Thanks again for the help.

 

[greg_g]

One fill hole up front accepts oil for all three locations. Same with creeper/tranny/rear diff, the one with the red paint on it fills all three. But if you don't flush, it's a good idea to remove the creeper cover plate for a visual level check. The forward flow between tranny section and creeper section is one of those areas that benefits greatly from the kerosene flush. It doesn't take much crud to clog that passage.

Left vertical face of transfer case , not tranny case. The transfer case is below the tranny case. It's the small one to which the front drive shaft housing is connected; only a few inches below and to the rear of the creeper drain.

//greg//

 

[mantis166]

Thank you again for all of the help. I got a good start today but ran out of oil so have to finish up tomorrow. I changed oil and filter in crankcase, changed oil in injector pump, and flushed front diff, rear diff., tranny, and creeper with kerosene. Didn't have enough 80w90 on hand to refill all the way so will go to town and get more in morning. Then, just have to change hydraulic fluid. Two interesting things. Oil came out kind of lumpy from tranny and creeper. Dip stick looked like it was covered with vaseline. Second, when I drained kerosine out of rear diff and emptied bucket, there were two small brass washers in bucket. Not sure where they came from but rather have them in bucket than elsewhere. Thanks again, all.