Give me your welding experiences

[Mith]

so basically using a rod for filler to feed intomthe molten pool?
siounds like it would work - ill give it a go
thanks /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[HomeBrew2]

Cool!! Thanks for the tip. I never would have thought of that. Anxious to give it a try.

 

[Mith]

just went out to give it a go nut it started raining /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
looks like itll have to wait till sunday
thanks

 

[johnday]

I'm new to welding, but one thing I've learned so far is that with REP, 2/3 of your heat will be at the electrode rather than the workpiece. Also, the shorter the arc, the less heat. Maybe even dial the amps down. I've playing with 6013 rod, or Lincolns 5P+, same rod just Lincolns designation. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Mith]

i tried the thing with feeding in a second rod
was kinda hard to do you had to keep the end of the rod in the arc to melt it properly
made a rubbish weld but by jove it worked /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
thanks

 

[tomrscott]

I don't have any experience at this yet, but just thinking about it, in addition to adding more filler with the second rod, it also gives you another way to control the heat. The second rod could be used to "soak up" a bit of heat if it gets too hot, while at the same time it deposits some fill.

Should have my new rig set up soon and will have to try this.

/forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

 

[MMM]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( And with regard to thin material, does a stick welder with DC capability help here? I was thinking that maybe with the right polarity you might control the heat differently. I've got a Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC. )</font>

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( And with regard to thin material, does a stick welder with DC capability help here? I was thinking that maybe with the right polarity you might control the heat differently. I've got a Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC. )</font>
Straight polarity is DCEN (Elec-,)For better penetration where 5/8 heat is on work, 3/8 on rod
Reverse Polarity is DCEP(Elec+) which is vice versa. Better for thin material
AC welder current flows back and forth from rod to work and tends to cause some inclusions and porosity, a bit more spatter and a faster deposit rate
)</font>

 

[johnday]

MMM; My instructor will be proud that I learned that from him. I did get it right! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[tomrscott]

Being an electronics engineer, that confirms what I expected.

Electrons flow from negative to positive, the heat goes where the electrons go. Makes good sense and easy to remember that way. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Taylortractornut]

Mith make sure you get most of the flux off your extra filler rod. I take a hammer and my anvil and roll the filler around pecking it to knock off the flux. I t makes the weld a bit nicer lol Or use some gass welder rods. Its not real pretty but it worksfor alot of things. I welded several drums together for a logging out fit to make culverts for the skidders to cross this way. I worked at a fab shop when I was 16 making steel hulled boats and we had to stick weld them. The sheetmetal was about 3/16ths and the prints called for downhill welds all joints at 230 amps. worked good and the passed Xray exams. Not to impressed with down hilling though.

 

[Mith]

thakns for the heads-up taylor
i had just used the rod with flux to give a real nasty weld
now they should look better, thanks
i am told that downhill welds are hard, i suppose even more so on thinner metal
thanks

 

[Mith]

come on then tom - you havent posted for a while
watcha been up to, done much welding
werent you gunna be welding up some implements - got round to that yet
pics?! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[texastomtom]

I have not gotten to it yet !!!!

Lots of away time lately,,, fixed plumbing saturday and was to rainy chilly to want to go out Sun.

Probably be a while now as I have to go out of town for 8-10 days starting this weekend...

 

[Taylortractornut]

Mith actually downhill welds are easier on thinner material that might be a bit harder to do a verticle weld on. On my friends work barge we welded the wheel house compartment out of 14 gauge metal. It would have been murder trying to uphill it so we set the welders up at about 200 amps and ran downhills with 6011 rods. They turned out prettygood. The landfill I run for a private company often disposes of old rods in the trash so when a get a box I usually keep them to make sheetemetal welds or to use to cut up scrap iron. I get alot of old combine harvestors and other sheete metal coverd things that i rob the guts out of. The old rods make a good quick and dirty cutter for this type operation. It saves Torch fuel and recycles bad rods. and make the parts fit into the scrap bin better.

 

[Tollster]

I am a nuclear plant welding inspector by trade and after the final process is completed I do visuals, Mag particle, dye penetrant, or ultrasound depending on the application.
I check the root visually when applicable, ensuring good fusion in the root, no suck back, minimal drop through. I then check for undercut on the OD (outside of the weld) <1/32" is acceptable in most cases. Also pay attention to the cap, look for good transition between passes, pay attention to start/stop points as these are hard to tie in and this is where most crater cracks develop. The idea behind good transition between passes is it will maintain a higher level of integrity lessing the likelyhood of stress risers which weaken the weld. Surface blending is acceptable to achieve the final weld. Keep your reinforcement to a minimum.
Most of all practice, before you get to the real thing.