Going down the Top N Tilt path
- Thread starter hayden
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ronjhall
Super Star Member
Peter
Your project sure turned out great./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif What is your next tractor project?/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Your project sure turned out great./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif What is your next tractor project?/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
OP
hayden
Veteran Member
I want a power feed for my chipper next, but I don't think building one is wise. I've got probably a hundred trees to take out which is a lot of chipping.
The TnT still needs some touching up too. I need to paint the welds on teh cylinder ends and dress the hoses with tie wraps.
The big question now is whether my BH seat will crash into the TnT hoses and couplings when I put it on next time. I did the TnT valve placement at home in NH and my hoe is in VT so I was "estimating" and we all know how that goes. I could be looking pretty silly this weekend when I try it.
The TnT still needs some touching up too. I need to paint the welds on teh cylinder ends and dress the hoses with tie wraps.
The big question now is whether my BH seat will crash into the TnT hoses and couplings when I put it on next time. I did the TnT valve placement at home in NH and my hoe is in VT so I was "estimating" and we all know how that goes. I could be looking pretty silly this weekend when I try it.
glennmac
Veteran Member
Peter, very, very nice. I guess I have to recruit another guinea pig for the electro-valves. I noticed you left the nonadjustable vertical arm on the left side of the 3ph. Others have said they put the adjustable vertical arm over there to be able to increase the tilt angles even further.
OP
hayden
Veteran Member
I plan to move the adjustable arm too, just haven't done it yet. My side link, when fully collapsed, is only an inch or so shorter than the fixed link on the opposite side so I have almost no upward tilt in the right side. Once I move the adjustable link to the left I can set it's length to be the same as the tilt cylinder in it's midway position. Then I'll have equal tilt up and down.
Bird
Rest in Peace
<font color=blue>Once I move the adjustable link to the left I can set it's length to be the same as the tilt cylinder in it's midway position. Then I'll have equal tilt up and down.</font color=blue>
I started out that way for awhile, but then changed it so that its length is the same as the tilt cylinder closed. That means it's level when the tilt cylinder is closed and I can only tilt the right side down, but it also means the 3-point can lift implements higher and I can level the implement without even looking back. If you're sitting on the tractor seat, it's a little difficult to look down on an implement behind you and tell whether it's level or not. Something to think about. Of course, if I start a job that might require tilting both ways, then I can manually lengthen the left link 1.5" and tilt both ways.
Bird
I started out that way for awhile, but then changed it so that its length is the same as the tilt cylinder closed. That means it's level when the tilt cylinder is closed and I can only tilt the right side down, but it also means the 3-point can lift implements higher and I can level the implement without even looking back. If you're sitting on the tractor seat, it's a little difficult to look down on an implement behind you and tell whether it's level or not. Something to think about. Of course, if I start a job that might require tilting both ways, then I can manually lengthen the left link 1.5" and tilt both ways.
Bird
glennmac
Veteran Member
Peter and Bird,
Your discussion is frustrating my dreams of tilt. I will vent over on the "Why is Hydraulic Tilt Useful?" thread.
Your discussion is frustrating my dreams of tilt. I will vent over on the "Why is Hydraulic Tilt Useful?" thread.
OP
hayden
Veteran Member
Good point. I might try that. It solves two issues very well. I'll have to think about whether having tilt in one direction will be a problem for what I have planned. I just don't know yet. I really haven't used the TnT at all so far.
OP
hayden
Veteran Member
It turns out my backhoe seat does graze one of the hose couplers. It's not too bad but it did chew up the seat fabric a bit. I'll need to track down and order the correct adapters to go from the valve to the couplers so they don't stick out so far.
Hayden,
Those pictures are great. I hope you are enjoying the fruits of your effort. Your advice and experience have been extremely helpful. My wife and I had a baby girl at the end of July so my TnT has been put on hold. I'm now starting down "the path" myself.
Mark Greer at V&M is sending me the pieces to build this with an electric diverter solenoid valve to mount below the tractor. He's also found a single spool "midget valve" (12 gpm open center, with reliefe valve set at 2500 psi) to be mounted up near the seat. This has a handle with 3 buttons corresponding to the 3 banks down in the diverter solenoid/valve below the tractor. This will give me a spool valve to give fine tuning/feathering capability in a small single valve operating 3 different cylinders (tip, tilt, and someday a curtis snow blade). That's the plan so far.
I would like to use the same prince wizard cylinders you used, but I couldn't find the phone no. and part numbers from the attachments in this thread. Would you please consider posting the necessary information again? Also, should I consider a different side cylinder to keep the lifting height that you may have lost?
Also where did you find the top link to sacrifice for the end pieces? Carvers is sending me a fixed side link, but only had more expensive adjustable top links (too expensive to cut up).
I don't know how to weld, so I'll have to ask a friend; as long as we use an electric welder, are there any other recommendations you'd make to insure the angles work out properly?
I apologize for being so pesty. I consider myself the guinea pig for the electric solenoid system and am hoping the rest will go fairly predictably.
Leef
Those pictures are great. I hope you are enjoying the fruits of your effort. Your advice and experience have been extremely helpful. My wife and I had a baby girl at the end of July so my TnT has been put on hold. I'm now starting down "the path" myself.
Mark Greer at V&M is sending me the pieces to build this with an electric diverter solenoid valve to mount below the tractor. He's also found a single spool "midget valve" (12 gpm open center, with reliefe valve set at 2500 psi) to be mounted up near the seat. This has a handle with 3 buttons corresponding to the 3 banks down in the diverter solenoid/valve below the tractor. This will give me a spool valve to give fine tuning/feathering capability in a small single valve operating 3 different cylinders (tip, tilt, and someday a curtis snow blade). That's the plan so far.
I would like to use the same prince wizard cylinders you used, but I couldn't find the phone no. and part numbers from the attachments in this thread. Would you please consider posting the necessary information again? Also, should I consider a different side cylinder to keep the lifting height that you may have lost?
Also where did you find the top link to sacrifice for the end pieces? Carvers is sending me a fixed side link, but only had more expensive adjustable top links (too expensive to cut up).
I don't know how to weld, so I'll have to ask a friend; as long as we use an electric welder, are there any other recommendations you'd make to insure the angles work out properly?
I apologize for being so pesty. I consider myself the guinea pig for the electric solenoid system and am hoping the rest will go fairly predictably.
Leef