Goof up on flail mower?

[IslandTractor]

And, I know you wanted bigger but the Caroni TM1900 has an offset that will cover your right tire and the price us right.

 

[J_J]

Can you show a picture of the blades, and drum assembly. Did you reverse the blades if they are the Y type, or do you have the single flat front kind.

 

[IslandTractor]

Can you show a picture of the blades, and drum assembly. Did you reverse the blades if they are the Y type, or do you have the single flat front kind.

If he can only mount with 1/4 inch shaft it would not be possible to mount these scoop or HD blades. If I recall correctly the Caroni has 3/8 or metric equivalent hanger bolts and so do the major US manufacturers for their HD knife compatable flail drums.

 

[leonz]

flail mower saga

So I bought this nice 88" heavy duty used alamo flail mower for ~600 bucks. I used it in 18-24" heavy field grass and it didn't cut too bad, but I knew the blades were old & dull.
I ordered new HD blades and when they arrived I started to install them but they didn't fit.
Unknowingly, I bought a "finish" flail mower. It only takes one kind of long (4.5") thin delicate looking blade. It has 108 blade mounts instead of usual 44 mounts on the "rough cut" flail.
I re-ordered new finish blades, but my fear is it will only be able to cut finish lawns and might be too delicate for my typical application (fields). I'd doubt I'll ever take it through rocks & brush, but I don't know if it's even up to the task of cutting tall field grass.

Do I need to sell this mower & start searching all over again? I would think the knife drum is repaceable, but probably more than what I paid for the mower.

You can still use it with no issues I have 30 year old finish knives i am still using for brush and finish turf so its not really an issue.
You only need to raise the roller gauge up for brush if you are really really really worried.


All you need is a Wen wet well knife grinder and you wil be fine.

 

[leonz]

I recently asked a friend with a CNC mill and a good mind towards designing if it was feasible to design and make blades for flail mowers. Each part is typically to cheap to make any money off of, unless there is a huge volume, which might be possible with the right designed knives. I was supposed to send some links to what I was referencing, but haven't followed thru. Maybe post pictures and sizes here and we can help you look, and I can forward this link as food for thought.
David from jax

About flail mower knives;


The Y knive blank is sheared from flat stock steel

and then punched for the mounting hole-ours are ovals.

The blank is formed/pressed for the proper angle then ground with a base

edge, inspected and then eventually sold.


The tapered knives take a bit more work to make but they are definitly

worth it.

 

[Eagleview]

The finish knives have a considerably smaller mounting hole & pin (maybe 1/4") the heavier knives which have a bigger hole & pin.

I use mine for work like you probably want to do . I break up to 5 or 6 5/8" bolts on my Berti a day hitting lumps of concrete , tree roots , steel etc . I have only broken a few 3/4" on my Cabe so your 1/4" pins will last 5 seconds if you hit something . Sell it and buy a heavy duty flail , preferably with 3/4" bolts .

Run with your bucket down and tilted back , you will feel most things that are heading for your flail . With it tilted back , it is more likely to ride up a stump etc without throwing you over the handle bars as will happen when the bucket is level and it digs into a stump . Wherever possible , mow in two wheel drive , if you snag something you have a nano second to get on the clutch as the rear wheels slip . If in four wheel drive and you snag something , the tractor will bend something before you can get on the clutch .

 

[Builder]

I use mine for work like you probably want to do . I break up to 5 or 6 5/8" bolts on my Berti a day hitting lumps of concrete , tree roots , steel etc . I have only broken a few 3/4" on my Cabe so your 1/4" pins will last 5 seconds if you hit something . Sell it and buy a heavy duty flail , preferably with 3/4" bolts .

Run with your bucket down and tilted back , you will feel most things that are heading for your flail . With it tilted back , it is more likely to ride up a stump etc without throwing you over the handle bars as will happen when the bucket is level and it digs into a stump . Wherever possible , mow in two wheel drive , if you snag something you have a nano second to get on the clutch as the rear wheels slip . If in four wheel drive and you snag something , the tractor will bend something before you can get on the clutch .

It is a heavy duty flail.
Alamo/Motts are tough machines. It just has a drum with finish knives.
It's up for sale, but I'll finish the year with it.

Here's the blades, etc:

http://flailmaster.com/products/products_detail.aspx?PartID=15005

http://flailmaster.com/products/products_detail.aspx?PartID=15017

 

[sandman2234]

Thanks Leonz,
I was thinking of something with a little more weight like the hammer knives on my ditchmower.
David from jax

 

[Eagleview]

It is a heavy duty flail.

Ever see Crocodile Dundee ? "That's not a knife , now THIS is a knife"

 

[Builder]

Ever see Crocodile Dundee ? "That's not a knife , now THIS is a knife"

Buwahahahahahahahaha:laughing:

Love the Aussies!