Gooseneck Coupler

[bindian]

I found a 14-15 inch crack today on my gooseneck coupler. The scary part is the crack is all rusted. No telling how long it has been cracked. The trailer and coupler was new in 2012. Should I weld it up or replace it. I am leaning on replacing, as it is a Bull dog coupler. Can I remove the jam nut, unscrew the handle on top and just replace the bottom part? Or will the old one need to be cut out and welded in as a unit?

 

[Topzide]

Just need new inner tube. BullDog should have what you need. Then take the old one and weld away on it as practice. Once welded, load up trailer and take one a run with the new inner just in case it's needed. BullDog may even want to see the old one?

 

[bindian]

Just need new inner tube. BullDog should have what you need. Then take the old one and weld away on it as practice. Once welded, load up trailer and take one a run with the new inner just in case it's needed. BullDog may even want to see the old one?

Thanks. That is the plan. Are the screw threads easy to start in the new bottom?

 

[nisaacs]

Thanks. That is the plan. Are the screw threads easy to start in the new bottom?

I would unscrew that one so you can see what the mechanism consists of. I didn't have any luck finding just the inner in that style, just the pin type.

Does it freeze where you live? It appears to have filled with water and froze, maybe cover the top of the hitch/handle with a coffee can or something.

https://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck-Coupler/etrailer/GCSQTW-30008.html

 

[bindian]

I located a new coupler, but my old one's square sides have expanded a little and wedged into the upper tube. The welder that fixed my telehandler is gonna come out and weld it so I can take it to a trailer shop. I will know when the welder gets here if he can unwedge the lower tube. Trouble is, the crank on top only turns about a quarter turn and gets hard. Both directions. Not sure what way to turn it to unscrew it.

 

[nisaacs]

I located a new coupler, but my old one's square sides have expanded a little and wedged into the upper tube. The welder that fixed my telehandler is gonna come out and weld it so I can take it to a trailer shop. I will know when the welder gets here if he can unwedge the lower tube. Trouble is, the crank on top only turns about a quarter turn and gets hard. Both directions. Not sure what way to turn it to unscrew it.

Understood. I would guess it is normal right hand thread. Turn left hard, then whack the base down with a good sized hammer, then crank it some more it might come out. If that don't work, turn it right hard and whack it

 

[bindian]

It seems like it froze, as all the flat sides are rounded and expanded. Only freeze we had that was bad was the freeze 3 years ago when Texas was without power for about 7 days. The top crank has a wide shoulder, so it is hard to believe water freezing did it. But it looks that way.

 

[Xfaxman]

Yours is the first I have seen with a crank height adjustment.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I'm glad I saw this thread.

Was going to remove the crank handle once the height of the coupler on my new trailer is set correctly. Now I know to also cover the top...or drill a drain hole at the bottom.

 

[bindian]

TMK,
You're welcome!
If I get another crank one, I will do both.

 

[bindian]

Yours is the first I have seen with a crank height adjustment.

When I bought it 12 years ago, it was the first one I had seen.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Looks like I lucked out with my coupler. Was ready to drill a drain hole, only to discover that a sloppy weld had already done the job for me.

 

[bindian]

I sleep on it and realized my crack started back in April. I was going home after digging all day with my 7.5 ton CAT excavator. I was hot and tired and turned too early leaving my friend's driveway. I felt the truck slowing down and looked in the left mirror to see the CAT and trailer tipping way over. All I could think of was floor the pedal and the Cummins pulled the trailer onto the pavement.

I talked with my local industrial welding shop foreman and he (and I) don't think the freeze back in Feb. 2021 could have done it.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I don't understand how that would make it crack where it did.

The set bolt being over tightened at some point probably didn't help, much like the regular round couplers tend to fail in line with the bolts.

 

[bindian]

What do you mean by.... set bolt being over tightened? Mine was factory set.

 

[4570Man]

What do you mean by.... set bolt being over tightened? Mine was factory set.

I don’t see how it could be anything besides freeze damage. It looks like the whole tube is swelled from freezing.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

What do you mean by.... set bolt being over tightened? Mine was factory set.

Most likely it was tightened by the dealer. And I've seen them over tighten couplers more often than not.

Now the bolt has created a weak spot, which I think is why the (most likely) freeze induced crack started in line with the bolt.

 

[bindian]

The bolt is on the forward left corner. The crack is on the aft left corner.

 

[Topzide]

To me, that looks like a pipe seam split from freezing. Most pipes are welded seam and not drawn. Until it's pulled from the trailer, you won't now for sure. Just glad it didn't turn ugly when towing a load!

 

[Too many Kubotas]

My mistake.

To me, that looks like a pipe seam split from freezing. Most pipes are welded seam and not drawn.

Except that the weld is always in the center of a flat part, not along an edge.

At least I've never seen tubing that wasn't welded that way.