Gorilla Glue

[czechsonofagun]

I just can't help myself not to runt. I still need to find an application, in which the gorilla glue would not fail.
Glued small wooden ball to the chair - it is loose again, glued foam pad in a bow quiver - yesterday it pulled out with an arrow. I always follow the procedure they suggest, but as of now, I think gorilla glue is more of a marketing than a good product.

Going back to epoxy

 

[randy41]

I also am less than satisfied with gorilla glue. I used some to assemble bee hive frames and it hasn't held very well. And its expensive stuff. I am using titebond 3 for wood glueing now.

 

[kenmac]

I am using titebond 3 for wood glueing now.

I have found that plain o' elmers wood glue works great on wood

 

[Lasgambler]

I have tried the Gorilla glue on diff. projects too, and for the price I did not feel it was worth it. I like Titebond for interior projects.
I keep a supply of PL on hand in the small and large caulk tubes to use in almost all applications that I feel I need to glue. I am sold on PL.
Terry

 

[GeneD14]

I have used several bottles of Gorilla Glue on many projects and will not buy another bottle because:
Elmers makes an equivelent water activated glue at a fraction of the price. Also for wood to wood joints TiteBond makes a professional wood glue that is easier to use and is stronger, cheaper, and cleans up with water.

 

[rtdiggr]

I agree with you guys i am not impressed with Gorilla glue. i think there marketing is great. [getting us to buy a product that doesn't work so well]


Shane

 

[ToadHill]

I found one good thing about Gorilla Glue. I carve for a hobby and when I carve something with a water theme, You can use the overflow Gorilla glue to simulate the foam on the water. That's all I've ever found it useful for.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

my neighbor swears by gorilla glue........it seems to work well in the applications he has used it......

however, those same applications (wood to wood) a good old yellow glue with some clamping pressure would perform just as well, if not better...

i've never bought any.....

remember, clamping pressure is the key..........you can glue two long grain, to long grain boards together with clamping pressure......when you try to break it, most of the seam that breaks and cracks is always the wood beside the joint, not the actual joint......

if you don't clamp it, you can usually snap it off and it will break in the glue seam....

i've never really checked in to the reason why......probably because it presses the glue in to the grain which essentially makes the glue joint much wider...

 

[EddieWalker]

I haven't had any problems with Gorilla Glue, but don't use it very often either. Usually I buy a small bottle and it sits around until it hardens on me. I think I've bought three bottles of it in my lifetime. I thought it worked great for those times that I needed the extra strength, but to be honest, Titebond and Elmers has also worked out well for me and probably would have done just as good a job as the Gorilla Glue did.

I did buy a roll of Gorilla Tape and was very disappointed in it. For the extra money, I was hoping for more sticking ability. It sticks to itself on the roll something terrible and is very difficult to get off. Getting it to stick to plastic was less then satisfactory. I really needed it for it's color more then it's strength, but though it would be better then just black electricians tape. It wasn't the black electricians tape went over it to keep it in place.

I won't buy it again.

Eddie

 

[czechsonofagun]

TiteBond or similar dispersing glue is my choice for wood application. With proper clamping, the adhesion strength is greater than that of wood.

I keep Gorilla around for odd applications, like plastic to metal or when there is a gap to fill in the wood connection, but it is not worth the money and it definitely does not live to the advertisement.

There was time I seriously considering getting Gorilla tape - well, thanks for the warning

 

[JB4310]

I tried the glue once and threw the rest in the garbage, I keep a roll of the tape on the truck, it's marginaly better than reg duct tape but not really worth the extra money, it does stick to it's self incredibly well on the roll! as was mentioned.

 

[studor]

I guess my experience with Gorrilla glue is pretty much the same as everyone elses. I used it to laminate wood -- any carpenters' glue seems to work better. I also tried it on a bunch of other stuff like chairs etc -- it seems to bond best if you spill it on something (i.e. it is really hard to get off one surface but does not seem to have much shear strength). I have gone back to carpenters' glue, construction adhesives, epoxy and crazy glues.

 

[Travelover]

I've found that Gorilla glue expands and the expanded layer is weak. So it is important to have a tight fit between the two surfaces and clamp tightly. It seems to work pretty well where a waterproof glue is needed on porous materials. I glued a leather seam on my hiking boots and it lasted for a long time. I have also used it to glue cloth to cloth where I needed strength, but was too lazy to sew.

 

[boatyard]

The gorrilla tape was all that I could find on a road trip. It was very expensive. It seemed to work very well; ie very sticky. But when it got hot out, the tape got all soft and came undone in a sticky mess. They will not last in the market place.

 

[skipro3]

It works very well on plastics. I had a round plastic table I bought from Home Depot. It's a fairly cheap table that's about 4' diameter and sits on my back patio. A high wind sailed it around the house and slammed it into sever things, sending parts scattered through the yard. I gathered the parts up and used gorilla glue to put it back together. I think the foaming action filled gaps where plastic was either missing or was deformed. Anyways, that was 2 years ago, and since then, that table has been blown off the back patio on many occasions. I've never had to repair it since that first encounter.

 

[Scooby074]

My experience has been different then most of the other posters, as its worked quite well. The foaming action seams to seal up the joints. Also the things ive glued with GG have been wet, which helps the Gorilla type glues set up. I cant comment on its effectiveness on plastics or other materials as ive only used it on wood.

That being said, my usual wood glue for most projects is titebond III.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

i was going to ask this, are most of you wetting the surface first? it seems like this is a must, if i recall....

 

[DieselPower]

GG alway's seemed to work well for me. It worked great on a couple of chairs I have reguled the stringers on. I have only ever used it in all wood applications. When I glue different materials together I tend to use two part epoxy's.

One question for the guy's it's not working for, do you prepare the wood surface before you do the glue up? By preparing I mean cleaning out old glue and slightly ruffing up the surface.

 

[weldingisfun]

Gorilla Glue, IMO not worth the cost.

 

[ray66v]

I have used several bottles of Gorilla Glue on many projects and will not buy another bottle because:
Elmers makes an equivelent water activated glue at a fraction of the price. Also for wood to wood joints TiteBond makes a professional wood glue that is easier to use and is stronger, cheaper, and cleans up with water.

Gorilla glues' short shelf life, and oozing issues have turned me off to the urethane wood glues.

I also like the TiteBond. I use the Molding & Trim version, it's thicker formula reduces drips and oozing. And, its fast initial tack reduces the need for fasteners, and clamping.

For trim, I also like the 2P-10 professional (super glue) thick. Used with the 2p-10 accelerator, it makes fastening impossible pieces of trim, like small returns, fast, and easy.